:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 05:48 PM |
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busa charging
ok a question for the educated amongst us - that puts me out cos i'm asking...
ok - megabusa - battery charging voltages
engine running tickover across the battery im getting 13.7 / 8v
turn on lights - bout 9-10v + if i rev the engine a bit and hold it - 12.07v
turn on twin rear fogs - bout 9-10v + if i rev the engine a bit and hold it - 12.07v ish
is that normal??
im guessing that 13.7v is telling me its charging ok but should i see the same voltage with lights on?
reason im asking i left the battery charger off the car last winter for 3 months while the car stood idle - doh - since then its had a couple of go
flat moments and its died - it could be the battery is damaged and bringing it down a bit or is it more likely that its simply not charging
correctly?
if its not charging hows it fixable? obviously its a bike engine so it hasnt the normal alternator
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maccmike
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 05:57 PM |
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no not right, if you have a spare good battery try that
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 06:12 PM |
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i had thought the battery is suspect but at a lot of money for a new one i need to make sure before i throw money at it.
was fine before i left it go flat and iv done no electric work to the car since - so with lights on all round it should still be 13.8 - 15.4v or some
where round there?
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GreigM
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 06:28 PM |
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definitely not right - check all the wiring to your regulator also - it likes to melt!
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GreigM
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 06:38 PM |
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In fact, the more I think about it, this is definitely your regulator rectifier at fault. If you rev to about 5000rpm it should give about 13.5-14.5V
almost regardless of what electrics you have on - especially not just headlamps.
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big_l
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 06:54 PM |
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mine is doing this defo not right but its been in the garage for winter so its on my list !!!
i thought it maybe a short on the lights ???
Check out my blog  mnrvortxhayabusa@blogspot.com
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 8/2/13 at 11:20 PM |
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battery - 99.9% certain - just had the regulator tested - its fine - even putting the charger directly on the battery it was telling me that the
charge had dropped quite a bit even just running engine for few mins.
my brother is an electronics engineer tested it - no issues. said that the battery is more than likely pulling the voltage down if its got a damaged
cell giving me a false reading.. ah well - least i know now
thanks for the help tho chaps
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jeffw
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| posted on 9/2/13 at 08:55 AM |
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Disconnect the battery from the car and test the voltage. You will see if you have lost a cell.
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 10/2/13 at 07:44 PM |
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yea - gonna have to remove it anyways - right awkward place to get at just behind the oil tank - pah....
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 13/2/13 at 10:09 AM |
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i took the battery off - measured the voltage - 13.2v - 24 hrs later 12.8v
but that doesnt give you whats happening under loading - so i took it to local auto electrical places - no one had a load tester for a battery that
size - all for normal car batteries - just one bike shop had a proper tester - bunged it on - battery failed under load testing... must have a damaged
cell.. which explains the low voltage drop with lights and fogs on... it is 8 years old mind so its not done too bad...
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 04:22 PM |
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kak - put new battery in - still no good - getting these results
battery is brand new
rectifier is checked ok
so can only be either generator or wiring from it
im getting 13v on tickover at battery
rev to 5k as per manual - still 12.8.13v
turn on lights - 12v
turn on twin rear fogs as well - 9v
thats not right - id expect 13.5 - 15v with all loads
i dont really know how to check the generator for output
the manual says - -
'disconnect the generator coupler
measure the resistance between the 3 generator wires
also check that the stator core is insulated
if the resistance value is not specified value - replace stator with a new one
resistance values are 0.2 - 0.4 ohms'
i was getting i think about 0.6 - 0.8 ohms [if iv done it right]
ok next test
generator no load performance inspection
start engine to 5k and hold
measure voltage between the 3 wires
if the tester reads under 65v at 5k rpm replace stator
wow - i did quick search - robinsons foundry [suzuki peeps] selling them for £440 ish...kinell
ebay seems about 100 ish for 2nd hand
is the stator the bit thats probably goosed? the middle bit that spins round witt the coily bits on? or will i have to buy the ally cage as well?
bearings?
not had this bit apart yet so not sure
will have to drop the engine out to get at it as its hard up against the footwell bulkhead - bazzer
but for now i reckon ill look at the wiring coming out of it - maybe thats no good?
how can i test it?
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 01:30 PM |
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battery is new - still no good - hmmm
ok - check charge to battery - shud be - 13.5 - 15.0 - getting
tickover - 13.2
lights on - 12
rear fog - 9
thats not right
so am i getting a charge out at all from the stator
ok - disconnected stator plug from the regulator - done these tests
check each yellow [3 off] wire to earth - should be no continuity - ok
check resistence of each yellow wire out of stator - spec - 0.2 - 0.4 ohms - reading i got - 0.5 ohms on each
checked each wire for continuity from regulator to stator - all 3 ok with them disconnected
checked stator for AC output - spec 65v + - output 2 ok one i couldnt get reading on more than about 10v - test taken from cold - 5k rpm
if iv checked the wires for continuity out from the stator and its fine - it is right that to get the readings i just pop the probes from each of the
3 yellows in turn giving 3 readings? if ones not reading do that mean for defo that the stator is goosed?
****** car.. doin my head in - if it is goosed iv gotta take engine out to get at it.. cover is right up on the footwell
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BobM
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 02:10 PM |
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You should get your 65v across each of the 3 wires from the alternator but I got caught out testing mine and thought they were down but in fact when I
made sure I got good connections they were fine.
The likeliest culprit here is always going to be the regulator/rectifier. Bike alternators very rarely fail, never heard of one personally but
encountered loads of failed rectifiers, to the extent that most of us in RGB carry a spare one to race weekends. If I were you I'd try to
scrounge one to try, it's only a few seconds job to swap it over.
Other possibilities are that you've got some sort of short elsewhere - can you measure the current coming from the battery when you stick the
lights on etc?
Not very Locost but very BEC
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 20/2/13 at 02:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BobM
You should get your 65v across each of the 3 wires from the alternator but I got caught out testing mine and thought they were down but in fact when I
made sure I got good connections they were fine.
The likeliest culprit here is always going to be the regulator/rectifier. Bike alternators very rarely fail, never heard of one personally but
encountered loads of failed rectifiers, to the extent that most of us in RGB carry a spare one to race weekends. If I were you I'd try to
scrounge one to try, it's only a few seconds job to swap it over.
Other possibilities are that you've got some sort of short elsewhere - can you measure the current coming from the battery when you stick the
lights on etc?
yea hear what your saying - im gonna go over it again
im getting low readings across the battery with lights on - bout 9v with lights/fogs/5krpm
shud be 13-15v
im gonna retest the rectifier - see whats going on and the generator
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