borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 09:29 AM |
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Exup Servo
Hi
Can anybody should some light on this for me please.
The exup servo, well I wired this in completely like it would have been originally on the bike, used the wiring diagram from Yamaha manual checked the
colours checked the wires, checked everything again (the plugs have been cut so am joining straight to loom) and the car refused to start, it would
turn over but not start, fuel pump was not going neither, however I thought as it runs on carb's it would still fire up as the bowls should be
full of fuel, I checked the bowls and they were, the exup servo was also completely dead as well not even a slight movement. So my next though was to
take it off again at least I would have a running car that way, so I cut through the Yellow/Blue (Y/L) wire first not for any reason at all just the
first one I came to. I then thought out of curiosity what would happen if I try it again, well it started with no issues and ran fine the servo now
was spinning round continuously in 1 direction. I turned the ignition off and cut another one White/Black (W/B), tried to start it again no problems
fired up, the servo now was whizzing around twice as fast again in 1 direction, so I reconnected the original Yellow/Blue (Y/L) wire and left the
White/Black disconnected tried to start it again and wouldn't start. So I basically left it at this point and reconnected the White/Black (W/B)
wire discounted the Yellow/Blue (Y/L) wire again. Took it down the road and drove fine no problems.
I have connected the Yellow/Black (Y/L) direct to the Blue (L) on the back of the Throttle position sensor and it makes no difference.
However when I connect the White/Black (W/B) to the Blue (L) on the back of the throttle sensor it does what it normally does engine starts, servo
continuously spins round. It appears the problem lies when both Yellow/Blue (Y/L) & White/Black (W/B) are both connected.
These are the colours and I have typed not to them what I believe they do (These colours are coming out of the servo)
Black/Red (B/R) Motor 1 (I assume turns the servo motor in one direction to push/pull cable connected to valve)
Black/Yellow (B/Y) Motor 2 (I assume turns the servo motor in one direction to push/pull cable connected to valve)
Yellow/Blue (Y/L) - +5V (THIS IS THE TROUBLESOME WIRE)
White/Red (W/R) Out, floats, the feedback input (What ever this means)
White/Black (W/B) Ground
These colours are coming from the loom in the same order as above
Black/Red (B/R) Motor 1
Black/Yellow (B/Y) Motor 2
Blue (L) - + 5V
White/Red (W/R) Out, floats, the feedback input (What ever this means)
Black/Blue (B/L) Ground
I though that the servo will only move a little when you first turn on the ignition almost like its a small calabaration movement and will then move
back and forth in both direction as it accelerate and de-accelerate?
Just remember "There is always going to be someone quicker than you"
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Davey D
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 10:48 AM |
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Just get rid of the exup servo, and make up one of the little circuits to remove the fault code on standard clocks. If you arent running standard
clocks then just remove it, and dont worry
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borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 11:07 AM |
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Not as simply as that, I have been running it without a servo for over a year and it runs fine (dont have standard clocks), now it has been turbo
charged and the engine physically retarded by 3 degrees on the pick up to stop detonation, however if the exup servo is missing from the ecu loop it
doesn't get a signal from it and further retards the timing as well, which means I am now ending up with an engine that only revs to around
10500rpm on a good day as appose to the 11750rpm where it should start to redline generally it should rev further than that.
Replacing it with a homemade circuit that you see kicking around will do nothing apart from get rid of fault codes which I dont have anywhere as i
dont have standard R1 clocks.
Just remember "There is always going to be someone quicker than you"
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Strontium Dog
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 01:09 PM |
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Sounds like you need to get it mapped for the turbo. The exup valve should be fully open at high revs I would have thought and so shouldn't make
any difference, working or not. Using a cheat circuit to tell the standard ignition ecu that the exup valve is working will prevent it from retarding
the ignition. Be warned, if your ecu retards the timing then your egt's will go up and then you could suffer det. or other heat related problems
like melted pistons etc. 
Edited to say: What have you done about the fueling now you've added the turbo?
[Edited on 24/7/13 by Strontium Dog]
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x319/zephyr2000/General%20forum%20uploads/?action=view¤t=3DEngine.mp4
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borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 01:17 PM |
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Its been on the rollers 3 times carb'd engine, and its sound as a pound on that front, the exup cant be fully open at full rev's because
the exup is not fitted, thats what my post is about when it is fitted the engine will not start, I am trying to wire it in to the ecu how it would
have original been when on the bike< i have done it exactly how the manual tells you to and it has been double check over and over again, it will
turnover just not start, I take the Y/L wire off and it starts.
Just remember "There is always going to be someone quicker than you"
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chicade
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 01:41 PM |
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Just be carefull with yamaha wiring they can some times differ from manuals and models and also keep a keen eye on wiring colours yellow and black and
there may be a black and yellow and similar combinations first colour is always main wire colour second is the trace caught me out a couple of times
before and sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees when trying to fault find
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chicade
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 01:44 PM |
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http://www.koracing.co.uk/R1/5PW%20Yamaha%20R1%20Wiring.pdf
Try this may help to compare too
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borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 02:08 PM |
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Hi thanks for the info, the diagram is basically the same as the 4xv model that i have just one colour difference, the actual wiring i have done is
identical.
Just remember "There is always going to be someone quicker than you"
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Bare
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 03:42 PM |
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Typ Yama circuits the yellow/white wire is the signal from the ecu. It typically can go to the CDI as ignition /rpm input.
Ground it and NO spark (it's also often used as part of the kill switch :-) Are you sure it goes to the Servo. Doesn't on my Bike.
[Edited on 24/7/13 by Bare]
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borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 06:59 PM |
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Does anyone know? When you cut the cables going from the exup servo to the exup valve (I don't mean the electrical cables) I am referring to the
to push and pull cables. So if you cut them should the servo wheel that the cables were connected to continue to go round and round or should it ne
still?
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borg230rover
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| posted on 24/7/13 at 07:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bare
Typ Yama circuits the yellow/white wire is the signal from the ecu. It typically can go to the CDI as ignition /rpm input.
Ground it and NO spark (it's also often used as part of the kill switch :-) Are you sure it goes to the Servo. Doesn't on my Bike.
[Edited on 24/7/13 by Bare]
Where have you got yellow/white wire from???? That colour doesn't exist in the manual or on the vehicle
Just remember "There is always going to be someone quicker than you"
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