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Author: Subject: Chassis Panels & Adhesives
scootz

posted on 16/1/12 at 09:58 AM Reply With Quote
Chassis Panels & Adhesives

I suspect that 'sealing' the panels will be some kind of IVA requirement (?), but assuming you were to build a car for track / race use, or simply refurbishing a registered car... would you choose to seal the ali chassis panels with an adhesive and then rivet, or would you forego the adhesive and just rivet them on!?

I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring the chassis!

[Edited on 16/1/12 by scootz]





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Irony

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:06 AM Reply With Quote
I removed the panels on my car and it was a PITA. I was planning on putting them back on with sikaflex and rivets but I know that at some point I will want them off again. Would it be possible to use some sort of self adhesive rubber trim along the straight lengths and just sikaflex into the corners???
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welderman

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:15 AM Reply With Quote
QUOTE

I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring the chassis!

Dont i know it lol

[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]





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wylliezx9r

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:27 AM Reply With Quote
Didn't fit any sealent on mine and rivnutted them on, no problems so far. I guess you could use double sided tape in lieu of the sealent.





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wilkingj

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:32 AM Reply With Quote
I have always been under the impression that the point of bonding the panels to the chassis is to give added strength to the overall construction.

Luego definately told me this was what should be done. Sikaflex by choice, or any similar bonding goo. eg Tigerseal
http://www.paints4u.com/pdffiles/tigerdata.pdf

But NOT Bathroom type silicone goo.

It performs the function of helping to maxmimze the ridgitiy of the chassis.

Would you want your Kit to be built to a lower standard / strength?

IMHO Its definately BOND & RIVET







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loggyboy

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:42 AM Reply With Quote
No IVA requirement as far as im aware.

I use sikaflex on mine, did it to water proof the internal space (I know its open top) but didnt want road spray etc working its way into the car, and also in to the chassis and rotting it.

Interstingly Martin at Raw said not to bother!

[Edited on 16/1/12 by loggyboy]

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rost

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:45 AM Reply With Quote
2nd on the strengthening here!
The rivets will loose strength over time and might even break at some point. Adding sealant will increase strength, but also durability.





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Irony

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:47 AM Reply With Quote
I heard somewhere on Locostbuilders that the ally panels give the chassis extra rigidity and stiffness. Thats why some folks have gone for the Honeycomb ally panels apparently. They are supposed to add strength and rigidity.
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l0rd

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:49 AM Reply With Quote
what about mastic?

The rubbery seal you have on doorcards?

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scootz

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:50 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wylliezx9r
Didn't fit any sealent on mine and rivnutted them on, no problems so far. I guess you could use double sided tape in lieu of the sealent.


Rivnuts?

Do you have any pics of the finished article?





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scootz

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE

I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring the chassis!

Dont i know it lol


Soz!





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Chippy

posted on 16/1/12 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
Using some form of mastic, of whatever type, not only adds strength, but also forms a barrier between the steel chassis and the ally panels to stop electrolasis, (sp), between disimilar metals. So as far as I am aware that makes it an absolute essential. IMHO Ray





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welderman

posted on 16/1/12 at 01:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by scootz
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE

I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring the chassis!

Dont i know it lol


Soz!


No bother mate, its all part of the fun, and when you start ending up with panels like this, im happy.


picture taken with my phone so its not perfect, (nearly mind)


[img][/img]

Also to add, panel is bonded and rivited

[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]





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scootz

posted on 16/1/12 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote






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Bare

posted on 16/1/12 at 05:06 PM Reply With Quote
IMO an utter waste to add Glue Goo, V much like wearing double Condoms.
Apply some seam seal if water ingression is your perceived problem.
Although in 12 years of owning a Series 3 Seven, it was Never a problem I experienced.
As stated it makes a horrid mess if one needs to remove a panel.

[Edited on 16/1/12 by Bare]

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scootz

posted on 16/1/12 at 05:28 PM Reply With Quote
I seem to recall that the Caterham I had a few years back didn't have any sealant under the panels!





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Angel Acevedo

posted on 23/1/12 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
I used 3M Double sided tape to fix a Moulding that goes between the hood and attaches to the windshield on a Pickup truck and it was pretty solid, it may be easier to remove than Sikaflex or the like, but may be what you are looking for.
HTH
AA





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ashg

posted on 23/1/12 at 11:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
quote:
Originally posted by scootz
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE

I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring the chassis!

Dont i know it lol


Soz!


No bother mate, its all part of the fun, and when you start ending up with panels like this, im happy.


picture taken with my phone so its not perfect, (nearly mind)


[img][/img]

Also to add, panel is bonded and rivited

[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]



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Peteff

posted on 24/1/12 at 09:57 AM Reply With Quote
Get some sticky backed Velcro and fit them with that, they should come off easily then





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TimC

posted on 24/1/12 at 10:33 AM Reply With Quote
Fair-play Joe, that is going to look Uber-schweet when finished.






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Steve Hignett

posted on 24/1/12 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Fair-play Joe, that is going to look Uber-schweet when finished.


It bloody well should!!!

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welderman

posted on 24/1/12 at 01:43 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for comments boys, heres the inside of same panel


[img][/img]





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Neville Jones

posted on 25/1/12 at 04:01 PM Reply With Quote
With all that carbon, I'd be putting some small zinc pieces well connected to the chassis, at various points around the chassis. Sacrificial anodes.

Cheers,
Nev.

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RK

posted on 2/2/12 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
A bit OT, but how on earth do people get that nice, shiny surface when doing CF? Mine always have bumps and rough bits, no matter how much wax I put down, and how much I polish ahead of time. And I've done it on glass as well as ally and plastic/polycarbonate. The best was from ally and glass with no wax or release agent. Could it be temperature isn't high enough? I've seen all the videos and I see nice, shiny, smooth parts coming out of the moulds. But this just is not my reality!!

ps wet lay, wrapped in plastic after. Don't seem to get an excess of resin.

[Edited on 2/2/12 by RK]

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jacko

posted on 2/2/12 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
If you look at new buses the panels are only sika-flexed on apart from four 1/8 pop rivets in the corners
guess how i know


jacko

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