scootz
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
Chassis Panels & Adhesives
I suspect that 'sealing' the panels will be some kind of IVA requirement (?), but assuming you were to build a car for track / race use,
or simply refurbishing a registered car... would you choose to seal the ali chassis panels with an adhesive and then rivet, or would you forego the
adhesive and just rivet them on!?
I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring
the chassis!
[Edited on 16/1/12 by scootz]
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
|
Irony
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:06 AM |
|
|
I removed the panels on my car and it was a PITA. I was planning on putting them back on with sikaflex and rivets but I know that at some point I
will want them off again. Would it be possible to use some sort of self adhesive rubber trim along the straight lengths and just sikaflex into the
corners???
|
|
welderman
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:15 AM |
|
|
QUOTE
I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring
the chassis!
Dont i know it lol
[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
|
|
wylliezx9r
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:27 AM |
|
|
Didn't fit any sealent on mine and rivnutted them on, no problems so far. I guess you could use double sided tape in lieu of the sealent.
I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
George Best
|
|
wilkingj
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:32 AM |
|
|
I have always been under the impression that the point of bonding the panels to the chassis is to give added strength to the overall construction.
Luego definately told me this was what should be done. Sikaflex by choice, or any similar bonding goo. eg Tigerseal
http://www.paints4u.com/pdffiles/tigerdata.pdf
But NOT Bathroom type silicone goo.
It performs the function of helping to maxmimze the ridgitiy of the chassis.
Would you want your Kit to be built to a lower standard / strength?
IMHO Its definately BOND & RIVET
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
loggyboy
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:42 AM |
|
|
No IVA requirement as far as im aware.
I use sikaflex on mine, did it to water proof the internal space (I know its open top) but didnt want road spray etc working its way into the car, and
also in to the chassis and rotting it.
Interstingly Martin at Raw said not to bother!
[Edited on 16/1/12 by loggyboy]
|
|
rost
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
2nd on the strengthening here!
The rivets will loose strength over time and might even break at some point. Adding sealant will increase strength, but also durability.
Charlie don't surf!
|
|
Irony
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:47 AM |
|
|
I heard somewhere on Locostbuilders that the ally panels give the chassis extra rigidity and stiffness. Thats why some folks have gone for the
Honeycomb ally panels apparently. They are supposed to add strength and rigidity.
|
|
l0rd
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:49 AM |
|
|
what about mastic?
The rubbery seal you have on doorcards?
|
|
scootz
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:50 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by wylliezx9r
Didn't fit any sealent on mine and rivnutted them on, no problems so far. I guess you could use double sided tape in lieu of the sealent.
Rivnuts?
Do you have any pics of the finished article?
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
scootz
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:51 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE
I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring
the chassis!
Dont i know it lol
Soz!
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
Chippy
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 10:56 AM |
|
|
Using some form of mastic, of whatever type, not only adds strength, but also forms a barrier between the steel chassis and the ally panels to stop
electrolasis, (sp), between disimilar metals. So as far as I am aware that makes it an absolute essential. IMHO Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
|
|
welderman
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 01:14 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by scootz
quote: Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE
I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring
the chassis!
Dont i know it lol
Soz!
No bother mate, its all part of the fun, and when you start ending up with panels like this, im happy.
picture taken with my phone so its not perfect, (nearly mind)
[img][/img]
Also to add, panel is bonded and rivited
[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
|
|
scootz
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 01:19 PM |
|
|
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
Bare
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 05:06 PM |
|
|
IMO an utter waste to add Glue Goo, V much like wearing double Condoms.
Apply some seam seal if water ingression is your perceived problem.
Although in 12 years of owning a Series 3 Seven, it was Never a problem I experienced.
As stated it makes a horrid mess if one needs to remove a panel.
[Edited on 16/1/12 by Bare]
|
|
scootz
|
posted on 16/1/12 at 05:28 PM |
|
|
I seem to recall that the Caterham I had a few years back didn't have any sealant under the panels!
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
Angel Acevedo
|
posted on 23/1/12 at 10:27 PM |
|
|
I used 3M Double sided tape to fix a Moulding that goes between the hood and attaches to the windshield on a Pickup truck and it was pretty solid, it
may be easier to remove than Sikaflex or the like, but may be what you are looking for.
HTH
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
|
|
ashg
|
posted on 23/1/12 at 11:02 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by welderman
quote: Originally posted by scootz
quote: Originally posted by welderman
QUOTE
I only ask as I've removed the old (sealed) panels from a number of cars now and it's an absolute PITA... and invariably leads to scoring
the chassis!
Dont i know it lol
Soz!
No bother mate, its all part of the fun, and when you start ending up with panels like this, im happy.
picture taken with my phone so its not perfect, (nearly mind)
[img][/img]
Also to add, panel is bonded and rivited
[Edited on 16/1/12 by welderman]
joe you really should put a not safe for work title up if your planning on posting up porn
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
Peteff
|
posted on 24/1/12 at 09:57 AM |
|
|
Get some sticky backed Velcro and fit them with that, they should come off easily then
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
TimC
|
posted on 24/1/12 at 10:33 AM |
|
|
Fair-play Joe, that is going to look Uber-schweet when finished.
|
|
Steve Hignett
|
posted on 24/1/12 at 11:00 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by TimC
Fair-play Joe, that is going to look Uber-schweet when finished.
It bloody well should!!!
|
|
welderman
|
posted on 24/1/12 at 01:43 PM |
|
|
Thanks for comments boys, heres the inside of same panel
[img][/img]
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
|
|
Neville Jones
|
posted on 25/1/12 at 04:01 PM |
|
|
With all that carbon, I'd be putting some small zinc pieces well connected to the chassis, at various points around the chassis. Sacrificial
anodes.
Cheers,
Nev.
|
|
RK
|
posted on 2/2/12 at 12:38 PM |
|
|
A bit OT, but how on earth do people get that nice, shiny surface when doing CF? Mine always have bumps and rough bits, no matter how much wax I put
down, and how much I polish ahead of time. And I've done it on glass as well as ally and plastic/polycarbonate. The best was from ally and glass
with no wax or release agent. Could it be temperature isn't high enough? I've seen all the videos and I see nice, shiny, smooth parts
coming out of the moulds. But this just is not my reality!!
ps wet lay, wrapped in plastic after. Don't seem to get an excess of resin.
[Edited on 2/2/12 by RK]
|
|
jacko
|
posted on 2/2/12 at 05:14 PM |
|
|
If you look at new buses the panels are only sika-flexed on apart from four 1/8 pop rivets in the corners
guess how i know
jacko
|
|