Mr Whippy
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| posted on 2/12/07 at 05:48 PM |
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wishbones look normal
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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cloudy
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| posted on 2/12/07 at 11:03 PM |
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They are standard book locost wishbones - on a car I expect to weigh a good 100kg less than a seven. Should be plenty strong enough - allthough had I
not bought them early on, i'd probably had a go at it myself...
nkosta: I'm using 1 1/2" and 50mm tubing, both in 16g (bright steel)
I'm welding using a clarke 160en MIG - using 0.8 wire with just co2 shield
no plans as yet, i'm still rejigging things slightly as I go...
James
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Mave
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| posted on 3/12/07 at 06:39 PM |
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As I said before, I'm not referring to the strength, but purely the cosmetic part of the 'bones. I think it would look great when the
wishbones are more in line with the chassis, dimensionwise.
But each to his own of course! 
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nkosta
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| posted on 6/12/07 at 06:11 PM |
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Thanks James
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kreb
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| posted on 6/12/07 at 10:00 PM |
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Am I the only one who thinks that you should throw some planking on the sides and a propeller on the back?!
Seriously, nice, clean work. Thumbs up!
https://www.supercars.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/1966_FiatAbarth_1000SP1.jpg
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cloudy
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| posted on 7/12/07 at 10:55 PM |
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A little more progress on the front, just making up the rack mounts. I'm still ooming and aahing about my rack position in the fore/art
direction - any comments? I think i'm happy about where it is..
James
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Echidna
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 02:51 PM |
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Steering rack position is not for the faint of heart. You should "design" its position as it will determine the amound of bumpsteer you
will get.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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kb58
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| posted on 8/12/07 at 03:13 PM |
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Moving the rack fore/aft sets Ackerman, a hotly debated issue as far as how much or little you need.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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cloudy
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| posted on 9/12/07 at 12:40 AM |
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Indeed, I have a test method for achieving zero bump steer, but on the ackerman side nobody has a clear answer - some people have more than that some
less!
James
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nitram38
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| posted on 9/12/07 at 09:32 AM |
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Seeing as you have lots of space at the front, why not make an adjustable bracket in the plain where you have dialed out the bumpsteer?
That way you can experiment with the rack position if you are unhappy with the way it behaves.
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hughpinder
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 10:52 AM |
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In the picture of the front end of your car, it looks like the steering arms are angled further 'in' at the front, to a front mounted
rack. Surely they need to be 'out' at the front for ackerman steering???
Hope I'm not being stoopid here.....
Hugh
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cloudy
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 01:26 PM |
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It's standard cortina uprights so I assume its right - but I can see where you are coming from, anyone else have any comments on this?
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sgraber
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 01:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kb58
Moving the rack fore/aft sets Ackerman, a hotly debated issue as far as how much or little you need.
Agreed. My basic comment without hotly debating the issue of ackerman is that you should attempt to engage each steering arm in a direct plane with
the tie rods to avoid any unforeseen geometric changes due to the differences in the arc of motion caused by the steering rack not being in plane with
the outer tie rod ends. That's just my .02cents which are virtually worthless anyways!
My rack is foreward of my tie rod outers by a good 3 cm and it induces negative ackerman. (Being changed for the next one) This makes it difficult to
push the car at full lock. Never mind that people say a bit of negative ackerman makes a car more stable at high speeds. I wouldn't be able to
tell the difference.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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nitram38
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 02:00 PM |
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That is why my rack is set at the same height as my bones (pivot same as bones for no bump) and straight onto my uprights:
 
Description
You can see where the tie rod goes at the top rear of the upright:
 
Description
[Edited on 10/12/2007 by nitram38]
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cloudy
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| posted on 13/12/07 at 08:14 PM |
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Can anyone comment on the best aluminium alloy for use as floor material?
6082 T6 or 5251 H22?
Aluminium alloy 6082 is a medium strength alloy with excellent corrosion resistance. It has the highest strength of the 6000 series alloys. Alloy 6082
is known as a structural alloy. In plate form, 6082 is the alloy most commonly used for machining. As a relatively new alloy, the higher strength of
6082 has seen it replace 6061 in many applications. The addition of a large amount of manganese controls the grain structure which in turn results in
a stronger alloy.
Aluminium alloy 5251 is a medium strength alloy possessing good ductility and therefore good formability. Alloy 5251 is known for work hardening
rapidly and is readily weldable. It also possesses high corrosion resistance particularly in marine environments.
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Alan B
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| posted on 14/12/07 at 04:15 AM |
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5251 is the one to use IMO...good formability
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cloudy
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| posted on 14/12/07 at 06:12 PM |
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reckon the rapid work hardening could cause a flintstone effect with all the flexing though ? 
James
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nkosta
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| posted on 15/12/07 at 09:14 AM |
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just for ilustration:
russian Midy Lada Revolution 650 kg , 1600ccm 165-215 ks
http://autoreview.ru/new_site/year2004/n22/ladarev/1.htm
[sorry slightly of topic but i am suprised with this lada]
More on this place
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=79347
[Edited on 15/12/07 by nkosta]
[Edited on 16/12/07 by nkosta]
[Edited on 16/12/07 by nkosta]
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cloudy
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| posted on 28/12/07 at 02:55 PM |
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Had to take it out of the garage to spin round today - so I put some wheels on (completely wrong size - going for 195/45/15 I think) while it was
outside to get some idea of how it was progressing...
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cloudy
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| posted on 28/12/07 at 08:24 PM |
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Also a check layout check on the engine/diff combination...
I intend to have some driveshafts made up so the engine is able to sit centrally. Anyone have any comment on whether such a short chain is likely to
have alignment issues?
James
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clanger
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| posted on 1/1/08 at 06:34 PM |
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CURSE YOU !!!!!!
Just read your thread. Pure inspiration. Hats off to your design and ingenuity. Brilliant
I been umming and aarhhing about a RWD bike engine Mini project I'm planning and waking up in cold sweats about the design. Can't bring
myself to shell out £5K+ for a Zcars one, nice though they are 
Your car makes my plans look like an infants school project, and me with 25 years engineering experience 
What's your background, If you don't mind me asking ??????
Great stuff, best of luck. I'll be following closely from here on in.
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cloudy
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 12:20 AM |
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My very limited (I'm 22) background is IT - which is not proving very useful so far except with the CAD drawings!
I recommend you just go for it, if you look back in this thread you'll see it's taken a good few tries to get to this point so don't
be afraid to experiment 
James
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 4/1/08 at 07:30 PM |
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,22! by just reading all this thread tonight i would of never thought you the "creator" would be 22. not knockin you in anyway. im 24 and
would love to have come up with this design (btw can i copy it in the future as it looks the dogs balls) any more progress?
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cloudy
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| posted on 6/1/08 at 02:52 PM |
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Engine's going in today - will have some more pics in the next day or two...
Just two of the latest renders showing the OZ alloys and the diff mounts...
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 6/1/08 at 05:57 PM |
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just how do you do these detailed pics. they are amazing and must take a while??
how come got no pic archive?
Rob
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