ElmrPhD
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 12:16 PM |
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Starting from scratch (engine/gearbox-wise)
HI all.
My track-oriented MNR Vortx RT+ needs an engine and gearbox. Any suggestions? Mine burned down/up with the building they were in...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3ju1TVEVeI
Whereas, I was convinced that my K20A2/Type-R motor was the best bang for the buck (and I'd still love to use one), I no longer know what
current options work best with available parts in my MNR chassis.
So, what are the cool kids using these days? Still Duratec with MX5 box or is there a better way to have, say, 220 hp? It would be very convenient
to have an engine with a right-side exhaust as I have a great big hole there, now, for the K20A's exhaust...
My only other "restriction" is that I splurged on a Sierra/Quaif 3.62:1 LSD which I'd like to use. This makes me think the MX5 box
is not such a good choice due to the gearing MX5 diff' is 4.1-4.3:1, or is it practical to change the gearing of the MX5 box or the Quaife? Or
is the MX5 box actually ok with a 3.62:1 diff' on the track?
Or...if someone is looking for a 1/2-built RT+ with no motor or gearbox, please give them my name.
Thanks for whatever advice you can offer.
Steve, in the NLs
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Ugg10
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 12:31 PM |
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If you have the bonnet space a 2.5l duratec, if you don't S2000 F20 or the ecoboost 1.6/2.0 (pricey on ecu though IIRC)
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 01:25 PM |
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Thanks Ugg10!
I should've mentioned (well, many things, but I can be verbose) that I still have an Omex 710 (ecu) and other bits for the K20A2 engine that
I'd planned on using before it went up in smoke (or, rather, was contaminated with asbestos from the fire of the old building it was in and,
therefore, irretrievable).
The MNR has more (vertical) space under the bonnet than most and I know 2.0 Duratecs have been used. Do you know if the 2.5 Duratec is higher or
deeper? I'm having a difficult time confirming which (Duratec, etc.) motors have right-side exhaust and which have left-side.
F20C has also been used in the MNR, which makes it interesting. It's supposedly heavier than the K20A2 (especially when tied to its heavy 6-spd
box) and more difficult to tune, but then 240 hp is enough...for now. And, while a K20A2 with MT75 box is supposedly lighter, the adapter plate is
1/2-inch steel, so maybe the combo' comes out to be similar to the F20C's weight. Dunno.
I know nothing about the Ecoboost engines - they seem to have appeared after I was doing my research several years ago.
Thanks, again,
Steve, in the NLs
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Ugg10
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 01:36 PM |
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was talking to a mate whop has a duratec (2.0l) in his elise and he said that the 2.5 head is about 1 inch (25mm) taller. Duratec has the exhaust ion
the driver side (right) similar to the F20 IIRC. Cheapest way to 200hp is an ST170 as the type9 and MT75 boxes just bolt on, Duratec needs a bell
housing unless using the mazda box but I think this is canted over by a few degrees. You could always use the Mk3 mazda duratec which has the box
already attached.
There is a 2.5l duratec on ebay at the moment so you may be able to see the differences with the 2.0l from the pics on there.
Ecoboost are the new turbo engines from ford but they have GDI so most of the usual ECU suspects can't control them. They come in 1.6 and 2.0
and look like they are pretty tunable.
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 03:00 PM |
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Same issue with going from a 2 liter K20A to a 2.4 liter K24A, but the problem is the increased depth for the extra stroke.
Again, ST170 has exhaust on the wrong (left) side for my car.
Will look into the "MK3 Mazda Duratec"
GDI? Dunno what that is. When I was in school, it stood for God Damn(ed) Independent, as opposed to the fraternity boys.
I thought Toyota 4age and some VAG engines were becoming popular.
My preference would be to proceed with a K20A2 engine, but nothing bolts up directly to it and I've been (literally) burned with a bad adapter
plate/setup. A recent biz, KMiata.com are doing a proper adapter plate to a early MX5 box, which looks interesting, but, as I said, I'm not
sure if a MX5 box would be geared short enough for my (expensive) 3.62:1 Quaife diff'. The MX5 used 4.1:1 and 4.3:1 ratio diffs. Any thoughts
on that?
Thanks,
Steve, in the NLs
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 03:02 PM |
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Woops. Scratch the 4age reference - they're also left-side "exhausted".
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coozer
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 03:11 PM |
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Put a V8 in it!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Ugg10
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| posted on 23/10/15 at 03:56 PM |
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Gdi - gasoline direct injection, the fuel is injected diectly into the cylinder cavity rather than into the inlet air stream, new technoloy and I
think there are limited ecus that can control it.
The mazda duratev has vtec iirc but your 710 can either control tjis as an off/on/off mode or fully variable, just needs a mapper who know what they
are doing.
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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