the_big_1
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 10:11 AM |
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Prop Shaft Question
Hi Guys,
Seem to have an issue where the prop shaft is to long.
it currently measures 811 mm from tip to tip.
Its on a Type 9 Transmission and Sierra diff.
Are there shorter ones?
Cheers!
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coozer
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 10:30 AM |
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Standard Ford affair?
What car?
Every kit needs a custom prop unless you really lucky (Blinky)
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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MikeR
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 10:56 AM |
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How much is it too long / why do you say its too long?
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the_big_1
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 11:13 AM |
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Hi Guys,
Its going in to the Haynes I am going to build and from the engine / transmission position, people are advising that the transmission and engine are
about 100mm to far forward.
This is governed from the diff fixed position and prop shaft length.
cheers!
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 11:33 AM |
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You need to go about this from the point of view of, engine and box as far back as is practical (diff position fixed)... Then have the prop altered or
a new one made to length. The donor prop will always be too long.
I'd always use someone like Baileys or Dunnel+Fairbank for the prop rather than risk my own welding on something that can makea big mess should
it fail.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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the_big_1
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 11:42 AM |
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Hi ya,
Yeah would never do it myself.
Cheers!
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benchmark51
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| posted on 13/9/16 at 02:55 PM |
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I did mine about 5 years ago and haven't had a problem. The bit I cut out was from the rear of the shaft. I measured up and marked where the cut
needed to be, also centre popped the flange and tube to make sure the flange went back in the same position. Where the flange joins the tube, there is
approx an inch of solid steel inside the tube. So I used a thin cutting disc and slowly cut, right on the weld, as the shaft was rotating slowly.
Eventually, tapping the flange produced a crack in the cutting groove, tapping the flange evenly opened the crack and separated it from the tube.
Removed the unwanted part of the tube that i had marked earlier. Brought the tube and flange together, lining up the pop marks, and tapped the flange
into the tube. Was a nice tight fit. Had the shaft on 2 V blocks so it rotated easily and put a continuous weld round as I rotated it. That's
it, let it cool on it's own and fitted it. Had no vibration at all and rechecking it after 2k miles, no problems.
You do need to have faith in your welding machine and your ability to produce a good weld though, any doubts then don't do it.
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 14/9/16 at 11:55 AM |
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And just a heads up - don't assume the shaft's diameter is small enough to fit your tunnel. Hint: a Honda F20C shaft has some serious
girth. AMHIK...
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