I'm looking into buy a Hayabusa powered car. According to some information I've come across I've heard the reliability can be an
issue.
I've heard rebuilds/refreshes can be necessary. I'm curious to know generally what,are the usual causes of engine failure?
Not really too handy with the spanners and as such a garage will be taking care of the work. Just what sort of bills would I be looking at?
Not looking for track days, just fast road usage and no more than 2 K mileage.
Thanks 
the info really will help me in deciding whether or not to buy a Hayabusa car.
Most problems are either with the gearbox or engines that have been tuned otherwise the Hayabusa engine gets very good marks. Changing the oil frequently is a good idea. Road use should never kill a Hayabusa if maintained.
I'd say it's one of the most robust bike motors. Failure usually comes from oil starvation, lack of maintenance or serious track abuse. But
there will always be exceptions.
If you can try and validate the mileage then obviously lower the better. By the very nature of the original 'busa they are designed for high
miles in a bike. 40k in the bike then into a 500kg car, you'll need a refresh, I'd say. Remember they haven't change much since 1999
(GEN2 are expensive!).
Buy one with a quality dry sump, Westfield's are sh1t, the bracket breaks and the belt comes off. I'd prefer a dry sump over a swinging pick
up pipe, but I've heard of some serious track driving with a swinging pick up.
I'd avoid a chopped wet sump at all costs and try to get one with a sensible rear diff ratio - 3.38 or 3.14.
Go for it mate 
Also, I'd make sure the car has a modified idler gear, it protects the gear train when you spin the cars backwards.
I think it was factory modified after 2004, but check that one.
quote:
Originally posted by theprisioner
Most problems are either with the gearbox or engines that have been tuned otherwise the Hayabusa engine gets very good marks. Changing the oil frequently is a good idea. Road use should never kill a Hayabusa if maintained.
Happy to change the oil frequently for the sake of avoiding problems.
quote:
Originally posted by fesycresy
I'd say it's one of the most robust bike motors. Failure usually comes from oil starvation, lack of maintenance or serious track abuse. But there will always be exceptions.
If you can try and validate the mileage then obviously lower the better. By the very nature of the original 'busa they are designed for high miles in a bike. 40k in the bike then into a 500kg car, you'll need a refresh, I'd say. Remember they haven't change much since 1999 (GEN2 are expensive!).
Buy one with a quality dry sump, Westfield's are sh1t, the bracket breaks and the belt comes off. I'd prefer a dry sump over a swinging pick up pipe, but I've heard of some serious track driving with a swinging pick up.
I'd avoid a chopped wet sump at all costs and try to get one with a sensible rear diff ratio - 3.38 or 3.14.
Go for it mate
What would you regard as a quality dry sump? And swinging pick up pipe, what that?
I have a billeted dry sump and a high volume pump if that help you understand. Apparently the dry sump is the best according to AB Racing. The high volume pump is also considered essential for racing/tracking. I also have a oil cooler and an oil temp gauge for keeping an eye out for trouble. It is also advisable (but I don't have) is a very large oil pressure warning lamp in the most visible part of the dash.
I don't think you'll ever need a dry sump for road use. Swinging pickup would be fine, I had a swinging pickup for around a year of road use
without any issues. If the car is for road use you also won't need a modified idler gear to protect the transmission in the event of a spin -
just push the clutch in.
If you can find a dry dumped car for sale so much the better as it gives you the option for track driving later. 13" wheels and a good bias pedal
box a also worth keeping an eye out for.
To give you an idea of costs big cc quoted me 350 for a bottom end rebuild and 650 for a full rebuild plus parts.
were you not on the radical forum wanting an sr3 as they are more 'attractive' than a 7?
id say for road use a radical is not what you want.a 7 would be a better bet and would be just as fast from A to B on roads. the radicals need to be
up over 100mph to work correctly and are therefore suited to the track!
SBD dry sump is whats on my radical and oil pressure is very consistent!
the radical has such poor visibility. massive body overhang,low ground clearance,massively reclined seating position... the list goes on. a 7 will be
lighter,will accelerate just as hard,and at road speeds will handle superbly well. on a track the radical is in a different league.the sr3 and pr6 are
supremely quick cars
I have a Hayabusa K8 which is the 2008 version. Suzuki made some changes from 2008 and up to fix several issues.
Dual injectors for better fuel flow at low RPM, oil passage changes and chain tension as well as some gear box weaknesses fixes. Overall from what I
have read the drag boys prefer the 2008-2009 model for racing due to these changes.
From what I can tell the engine is strong. If you can afford the dry sump, do it. Best way to be safe. if you cannot, buy a good quality pan. Several
are in the market, some which look nice, but make sure they have the right baffles etc.
I am using a RillTech pan which is used in several Open Wheel formula cars, with good
success. Not cheap, but cheaper than a dry sump.
Note, you can change the gear on the oil pump to increase the oil pressure.
The chain tensioner issue mentioned above is solved in the 2008 and after.
Limit the size of the oil cooler to 16 rows or less (if not using a dry sump), the bigger coolers reduce pressure.
quote:
Originally posted by theprisioner
I have a billeted dry sump and a high volume pump if that help you understand. Apparently the dry sump is the best according to AB Racing. The high volume pump is also considered essential for racing/tracking. I also have a oil cooler and an oil temp gauge for keeping an eye out for trouble. It is also advisable (but I don't have) is a very large oil pressure warning lamp in the most visible part of the dash.
I'd certainly bear that in mind if and when it comes to looking over Hayabusa car.
quote:
Originally posted by Custardpants
I don't think you'll ever need a dry sump for road use. Swinging pickup would be fine, I had a swinging pickup for around a year of road use without any issues. If the car is for road use you also won't need a modified idler gear to protect the transmission in the event of a spin - just push the clutch in.
If you can find a dry dumped car for sale so much the better as it gives you the option for track driving later. 13" wheels and a good bias pedal box a also worth keeping an eye out for.
To give you an idea of costs big cc quoted me 350 for a bottom end rebuild and 650 for a full rebuild plus parts.
The car probably wouldn't see many track days if at all. Agreed about the 13" rims, used to have those on my SEiW,
worked well.
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
were you not on the radical forum wanting an sr3 as they are more 'attractive' than a 7?
id say for road use a radical is not what you want.a 7 would be a better bet and would be just as fast from A to B on roads. the radicals need to be up over 100mph to work correctly and are therefore suited to the track!
SBD dry sump is whats on my radical and oil pressure is very consistent!
the radical has such poor visibility. massive body overhang,low ground clearance,massively reclined seating position... the list goes on. a 7 will be lighter,will accelerate just as hard,and at road speeds will handle superbly well. on a track the radical is in a different league.the sr3 and pr6 are supremely quick cars
quote:
Originally posted by fimi7
I have a Hayabusa K8 which is the 2008 version. Suzuki made some changes from 2008 and up to fix several issues.
Dual injectors for better fuel flow at low RPM, oil passage changes and chain tension as well as some gear box weaknesses fixes. Overall from what I have read the drag boys prefer the 2008-2009 model for racing due to these changes.
From what I can tell the engine is strong. If you can afford the dry sump, do it. Best way to be safe. if you cannot, buy a good quality pan. Several are in the market, some which look nice, but make sure they have the right baffles etc.
I am using a RillTech pan which is used in several Open Wheel formula cars, with good success. Not cheap, but cheaper than a dry sump.
Note, you can change the gear on the oil pump to increase the oil pressure.
The chain tensioner issue mentioned above is solved in the 2008 and after.
Limit the size of the oil cooler to 16 rows or less (if not using a dry sump), the bigger coolers reduce pressure.