After getting the bug for sprinting at the end of last year I have decided to design and construct a single seater sprint car for 2016 using the "Locost" ethos.

Eventually the aim is to sell the plans for the car as I will be completing full CAD models and drawings for every part, as well as mainting a full BOM and cost list.

My aim is to combine the 'Locost' homebuilt ethos with the style of a Formula Student car Small and Super Light (hence SSL).
Using as many off the shelf and Locost parts as possible (such as Wilwood Powerlite calipers for example) that people already know about and trying to design it to use the minimal amount of specially made parts and tooling you wold find in the average LCB members garage is also a priority.
At university we managed to build a Blue Book compliant FS car that weighed in at 220Kg so adding an extra 30Kg for a 4cyl Bike engine (rather than a single cyl' I think 250Kg is achievable but <275Kg is likely.

The first job has been to build somewhere to build it by creating a chassis bench in my workshop (dubbed Mega-bench). a 2m x 1m work surface will allow me to contruct the car (minus wheels) on the bench.

Sarting Base is 2x Ex BAR Honda tool boxes:

Mega Bench 1

A Steel Frame is added on top and levelled:

Mega Bench 2

Finally the rather lovely 2m x 1m sheet of 3mm thick hardened aluminium was added as well as an end support:

Mega Bench 3

Currently the main area of progress is the drivetrain, I have decided to use virtually the same parts as my '7', partly because I know them well and partly because I already have a spare set. So it will use (to start with anyway) an 893/919 Fireblade engine, mounted longitudinally driving a Freelander Diff running into Westfield Megablade driveshafts with Westfield hubs in modified Sierra Drum brake bearing carriers. Rear suspension will be double wishbone with bespoke uprights.
Front suspension will be double wishbone but I am aiming to use Rally Design Ally uprights, hubs and Wilwood Calipers.

Most other stuff is up in the air at the moment but I'm also working on a "blown" venturi tunnel for the underside.

Here a are some pictures of the very early scheme for the layout, just so I could size everything up.


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More updates soon hopefully.

Will watch this with interest.

With the engine in this configuration I seem to remember seeing something about problems with very short propshafts or directly bolting the engine output shaft to the diff.

I think this is why people tend to use chain drive.

Love the work bench though

[Edited on 26/11/14 by DW100]

[Edited on 26/11/14 by DW100]

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Originally posted by DW100
With the engine in this configuration I seem to remember seeing something about problems with very short propshafts or directly bolting the engine output shaft to the diff.

I think this is why people tend to use chain drive.

Love the work bench though
]

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The Fisher Menace and MEV Atomic also used this type of set up but with the engine almost next to the driver. May be worth contacting Mark Fisher or Stuart Mills/RTR for info on thier setup.

Ok can't seem to find any references now and have found details of old formula 750s with gearbox bolted direct to diff. So maybe I dreamt it.

Chain diffs can be done locost, have a look at most bike engined single seat hillclimbers. Most tend to use a Fiesta diff, a couple of pillow blocks to mount it to the frame and a can over the diff to hold the oil in. you can use a split sprocket bolted direct to the diff.

[Edited on 26/11/14 by DW100]

Looks good, can't weight to see the updates.

Iirc the menace had a vey short Prop shaft swith a rubber cush drive between the engine sprocket and the sierra diff. I think there was also a hyabusa menace that had a freelander diff in itas well, think this was documented in ppc at the time.

You can get a short prop with from Paul at Spire sportscars just up the road from Derby. You may also need a stand off adaptor for the clutch (we did for a 2007 Blade engine)

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Interesting!

Doesn't the sprint class go to 600cc and then next to 1100?

Cann't wait to see what you will come up with suspension wise.

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Originally posted by ettore bugatti
Interesting!

Doesn't the sprint class go to 600cc and then next to 1100?

Cann't wait to see what you will come up with suspension wise.

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Originally posted by Ugg10
Iirc the menace had a vey short Prop shaft swith a rubber cush drive between the engine sprocket and the sierra diff. I think there was also a hyabusa menace that had a freelander diff in itas well, think this was documented in ppc at the time.

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Originally posted by SCAR
You can get a short prop with from Paul at Spire sportscars just up the road from Derby. You may also need a stand off adaptor for the clutch (we did for a 2007 Blade engine)

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I'm curious about your underfloor setup, what is the theory behind having a sort of back to front diffuser at the front?
Surely this will just result in a high pressure area all the way back to where the hoop is?
I would have expected a flat floor to curved diffuser would give the best result.
however this is based only on what i've seen, I don't have much experience with flow sim or aerodynamics

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Originally posted by 43655
I'm curious about your underfloor setup, what is the theory behind having a sort of back to front diffuser at the front?
Surely this will just result in a high pressure area all the way back to where the hoop is?
I would have expected a flat floor to curved diffuser would give the best result.
however this is based only on what i've seen, I don't have much experience with flow sim or aerodynamics

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A problem with mounting a bike engine north south in a single seater is that the chassis still ends up being as wide as a two seater due to almost the entire engine being located to one side of the cars centre line. If your target is a very narrow (single seater) chassis you may have to mount the engine centrally and offset the diff and run unequal length drive shafts. Also because blade engines really like to run their original airbox they end up being quite tall so for good aero ideally need to be located directly behind the driver.
You are welcome to visit our shop and look over our part built Spire

Its not much but at least I have "broken ground" now. Hopefully when the reast of the driveline is returned to me from its recent use at a trade show I can fully lay out the rear end.


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hi
the answer to some of your questions depend on exactly what you intend to do with the finished car.
if its just sprint / hill climb does it required reverse , a lot of race types do now.
especially if its aimed eventually at the road.
if its pure race and you stick with chain drive 275-325 kg is just achievable with some major work to keep the weight down
for road then 425-525 kg for a target is achievable , remember formula ford cars run approx. 450kg . ( I know steel wheels ect )
I am building a very similar car but my aim is at the track day / road area. ( it is also aimed to allow bigger drivers )
I looked at the layout you are proposing and ended up going for an east> west config due to offset load in a single seater as previously stated.
also watch the feet position regarding the front axel line re regs
if you want to see the pictures of mine here is the link

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/50/viewthread.php?tid=194783

if you want further info u2u me

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engine in frame with diff

Nice work, I think mounting the engine in an east /west aspect with offset chain drive makes the most sense in a rear engine single seater The second photo shows the advantage of the resulting narrow chassis which should give better aero and weight distribution. Although the rgb cars are wider as they have to be two seater they still changed to this arrangement as the chain drive significantly reduced transmission loses. Is this completely scratch built? What are you going to do for bodywork?

Edit Checked out your build thread will follow with interest

[Edited on 27/11/14 by SCAR]

interesting, thanks, never seen it before.
Definitely sounds like something you'd need flow simulation or considerable real world testing to implement properly

To answer the debate about Longitudinal vs Transverse mount the engine in Longitudinal mount requires no more width than my shoulders (I have wide shoulders which means I need a wide car) so the car wont be any wider than with a transverse layout, the battery, radiator, fuel tank and other bits will be offsetting the weight. As I previously mentioned though it definitely wont be having a chain drive as I don't have the money to spend on one and it doesn't fulfill the ethos of the project.

As for the total weight, we built and MSA compliant sprint car, which was 220kg with a 30Kg single cylinder engine, so adding an extra 35kg for an I4 and a bit extra for extra chassis and aero 275kg is definitely doable.

Anyway, I got a bit of time to get started this evening, I mapped the car out on the bench and tested it for fit. The chassis is definitely big enough for me and the engine which was my first worry and the engine clears the main chassis beams which was the second main area of question.

The exhaust nicely clears the predicted chassis triangulation when fitted in the forward facing position.

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The radiator isn't in the ideal location for cooling but will be good enough for 1 minute sprints.

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The red marking on the bench show the width of the chassis and how the engine still sits within the single seater roll cage width.

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looking good

Got a bit more time in the workshop today.

Cut and tacked together the main section of the chassis, this will allow me to sort the seating position and thus define the roll hoop heights and also work out the positioning of the main components for the driveline (especially the diff) and the pedal box and steering rack at the front end.

Once this has been done I'll feed this back into the CAD model to update the design, I've already made a few changes from the initial CAD model to aid assembly and welding.


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still looking good
I fitted my steering wheel assembly and clocks today plus a load of fiddly bit's that take hrs. then don't look like you have done f all .
keep going > there are dark days ahead

what the regs regarding feet position re pedals . I mean feet position re front axel line .



[Edited on 2/12/14 by bart]

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Originally posted by bart

what the regs regarding feet position re pedals . I mean feet position re front axel line .



[Edited on 2/12/14 by bart]

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I could be wrong and prob am , but I thought the axel line is ctr of the wheels side to side .

if im correct the feet must not be in front of this . it locks like your cad is fsea type with feet over this line

I stand to be corrected and will be !

You are correct that the line between the front wheel centre is the sale line, this is inline with the very front of the chassis

will be interesting to see your suspension design.
if your chassis does not extend forward of the wheel ctr line how do you deal with the stresses of the front a arms .
will watch with anticipation , as opposed to constipation ! lol

further thoughts
the design you are proposing is very short compared to the axel ctr distance , I don't wish to sound contra sending but have you given any thought to straight line stability , Square designs tend to swap ends alarmingly easily . all the books and good handling cars tend to be approx. 1.5 ish to 1.7 . now ready ! everybody shout !
just relating some of the design thought process that I went through.

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Originally posted by bart
further thoughts
the design you are proposing is very short compared to the axel ctr distance , I don't wish to sound contra sending but have you given any thought to straight line stability , Square designs tend to swap ends alarmingly easily . all the books and good handling cars tend to be approx. 1.5 ish to 1.7 . now ready ! everybody shout !
just relating some of the design thought process that I went through.

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Quick non-progress update.

Have decided to build a 600cc class car as I think its fits my plan a bit better. The general consensus from the sprint/hillclimb internet users seems to be that there might be a gap for an entry level 600cc machine in the market and a few other people seem to be building cars to refill the class as well.

I will go with a CBR600 F2/F3/F4 engine as these are readily available for <£500 as complete bikes and seem to be simple, robust and reasonably quick.

As for other bits I'm thinking of using Westfield rear uprights (inspired by Barts build) as they will fit my megablade driveline and are readily available, the only problem is the £500 price tag. Also I think they look like 70's F1 upright which is just a bit cool.

Barts Rear with Westy Uprights:

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60's Ferrari F1 Upright
http://atspeedimages.com/image.php/3e0a0100-f15a-11dc-d9a9-0019e3f8e432/branded/1967_ferrari_312_f1_right_rear_suspension.jpg

Steering Rack and pedal box I think will actually be Autograss type units from DRD Racing, they make really nice stuff and the prices are very good.

Link to DRD parts:

http://www.shop.drdracingproducts.com/Chassis-parts_c2.htm

Anyway, hopefully will get some more build done soon and will get hold of a CBR600

All this does leave a nice 893cc Fireblade engine up for sale if anyone is interested.

Bike-engine short prop' to diff... (circa' 2004)

(ignore the crappy silencer, this was to get through a noise test)


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[Edited on 11/12/14 by tadltd]

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Originally posted by tadltd
Bike-engine short prop' to diff... (circa' 2004)

(ignore the crappy silencer, this was to get through a noise test)


undies-03
undies-01

[Edited on 11/12/14 by tadltd]

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Just picked up a decent looking CBR600 '99 model year for £630 to act as the main donor. As well as the engine, electrics and clocks I'm hoping the front brakes will provide the rear brakes for the car.

The steering rack and parts as well as the pedal box are now ordered from DRD Racing.

Hopefully the parts will get added over the Xmas hols so I'll have some proper updates.

Managed to grab a few moments over the holidays to trial fit the DRD bits (Pedal Box and Steering Rack). Both are really nice items.

I've cut and narrowed the pedal box and it fits perfectly into the front 'box' of the car

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The DRD steering rack is a lovely little item, tiny, lightweight and 1 turn LTL, the small size means I can eliminate bump steer as well.

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Tomorrow is a major work day as Santa is bringing me this:

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The aim ios to strip the engine, brakes and electric tomorrow and get the rest sold ASAP to clear some space.

Owt hapnin lad.

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Originally posted by bart
Owt hapnin lad.

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Have finally managed to get some time in on the design work for this car, front suspension is now pretty much complete as is the braking system:


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Chassis needs updating for the coilover mounts and the steering rack model is missing but the front I'm happy with, now onto the rear end.

I once designed a car with the front bones in that style. I concluded it could limit steering lock - but I'm guessing that for track use only you don't really need that much lock. Looks good anyway.

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Originally posted by JoelP
I once designed a car with the front bones in that style. I concluded it could limit steering lock - but I'm guessing that for track use only you don't really need that much lock. Looks good anyway.

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if you move steering rack closer, you will gain more angle for inner wheel. wheel angle very depend from steering rod angle

The Ackerman is all sorted, those wheel angles in the pic are unrelated to steering geometry, the wheels have both been rotated 45° to check for clashes.

Making good progress on the design work now, rear end and driveline are pretty much done. Controls are currently WIP with positioning needing to be set now that I can build a mock-up to see how big it is, this info can then be fed back into the design. At 5'11" and 'fat' a car that fits me should be enough for 95% of potential customers.

A reasonably big change is that I have decided to go for two pedals and a hand clutch. Reasoning being that the clutch is only used on launch and for down shifts and many people doing sprints/hillclimbs seriously will fit a flatshifter so the lever will only be there for emergencies anyway.

Current ISO view with a resonable amount of population in the CAD model:

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Plan view of the rear driveline, there is still room to shift the engine further to the right, with considered placement of batttery, ccoling and fuel weight distribution will be 50/50 LR

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Rear Suspension, geo gives a mild camber increase in bump and roll with a nice damper installation ratio and rising rate.

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Side View, the engine model doesn't have the planned AB Performance flat sump so wont stick out of the bottom in the final version.

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More progress on the CAD side and in real life. The fuel tank is now complete and on order from OBP and I picked up a Formula Renault front wing for it. Both have which have now been added into the design.

Although I have added the FR front wing a a F3 rear wing I'm not actually going to specify the wings for the car and instead include front and rear mounting points that are universal enough for people to be able to go and buy whatever than can find second hand. Reason being that new wings are incredibly expensive and I feel that the budget nature of the build will lend itself to resourceful builders going out and finding used single seater wings on the 2nd hand market.

A few pics of the current car, now giving an idea of what it will look like, obviously the nose will change to mate to the wing:


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Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.

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Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors

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Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.

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I did have a think about it but its not an eventuality worth designing for, IF someone has a front crash and IF it doesn't do any other damage and IF you have a replacement nose box and IF you have a spare front wing it would save a day of sprinting but thats a long list of IF's to be carrying the extra complication and weight of a bolt on part.

Instead I'm making the nose simply a tubular hanger for the wing, if it gets bent the sort of 'home build' target market who I would hope has made/bought the car would simply cut off the bent bit and weld in new tubes. Its also one of the benefits of keeping the front of the chassis so short, less likely to damage more critical components in a frontal impact.

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Originally posted by JimSpencer

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors

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Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.

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I did have a think about it but its not an eventuality worth designing for, IF someone has a front crash and IF it doesn't do any other damage and IF you have a replacement nose box and IF you have a spare front wing it would save a day of sprinting but thats a long list of IF's to be carrying the extra complication and weight of a bolt on part.

Instead I'm making the nose simply a tubular hanger for the wing, if it gets bent the sort of 'home build' target market who I would hope has made/bought the car would simply cut off the bent bit and weld in new tubes. Its also one of the benefits of keeping the front of the chassis so short, less likely to damage more critical components in a frontal impact.

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Hi

I think you'd be much better off making that bit bolt on - having done a nose box at a meeting and changed it c/w the front wings.. just like lots of other folk - that's a standard design feature I'd be looking for.
Plus - design it right and it'll go some way to save the chassis.
Or
Make the nose cone with front wing the support and the structure itself?

Plus I'd forget F3 / FR wings - too small for sprints and hills, you'll need larger - if you go to the right place they're not too expensive either. (can we recommend suppliers on here?)

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Hi

I built (though not the Tub) mine too - the one in the avatar

IMHO The most important bit is practicality:-
The car must be easy to work on.
Plus
It will need to fit in the trailer's - you normally see car's transported 'nose less, especially as with the modern design of front wing is a good way in-front on the front axle line.

So if it's a fixed structure you'll need something to bolt onto it and then extend forward so with it and the wing removed there's not too much in front of the front tyres?
Perhaps a sub frame that bolts to the wing and then the chassis frame itself?

Re Damage

I've made 3 nose box's too - it's very little more work to make that piece bolt on.
(The first alloy one got bent in a bump, the second one is still ok, but have now changed design to go to the dropped nose full width front wing.)
It means it's a quick fix, if not at then at least between events, they get damaged very easily, especially on the hills.
I, like a number of competitors, would normally carry a spare front wing - I've even seen them stood on - certainly the end plates are best thought of a 'wear and tear' part.. Lol
But it's your design and hence your call

Cost

My new - carbon - front wing, I purchased new in component form (two lengths of wing profile and a large piece of carbon sheet) and then assembled to my spec, it's max width at 1.4m, dual plane and fully adjustable - cost was £350..
Rear wing is the same.

HTH

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Originally posted by JimSpencer
Hi

I built (though not the Tub) mine too - the one in the avatar

IMHO The most important bit is practicality:-
The car must be easy to work on.
Plus
It will need to fit in the trailer's - you normally see car's transported 'nose less, especially as with the modern design of front wing is a good way in-front on the front axle line.

So if it's a fixed structure you'll need something to bolt onto it and then extend forward so with it and the wing removed there's not too much in front of the front tyres?
Perhaps a sub frame that bolts to the wing and then the chassis frame itself?

Re Damage

I've made 3 nose box's too - it's very little more work to make that piece bolt on.
(The first alloy one got bent in a bump, the second one is still ok, but have now changed design to go to the dropped nose full width front wing.)
It means it's a quick fix, if not at then at least between events, they get damaged very easily, especially on the hills.
I, like a number of competitors, would normally carry a spare front wing - I've even seen them stood on - certainly the end plates are best thought of a 'wear and tear' part.. Lol
But it's your design and hence your call

Cost

My new - carbon - front wing, I purchased new in component form (two lengths of wing profile and a large piece of carbon sheet) and then assembled to my spec, it's max width at 1.4m, dual plane and fully adjustable - cost was £350..
Rear wing is the same.

HTH

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Interestingly it was seeing tadltd picture of the LMP. That reminded me of the crash structure on the front of that car that was folded from alloy and also held that made me ask the question.

Managed to knock together a quick bodywork scheme, looks much better than I thought it would with it being made from simple riveted on aluminium sheets.


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Its not as sleek as an OMS Hornet but its not half bad.


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[Edited on 8/5/15 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

Well I've not updated this thread in a while, holidays, weddings, birthdays and sprints have been getting in the way. The last two weeks though have seen a major surge in effort.

The chassis drawings are now complete and a chassis builder is lined up to make No. 1 once I have confirmed the height ofthe roll hoops (using a full size mock-up) and that the engine will fit through the gap (using a 1/10th scale 3D print of the chassis and engine).

Thje rest of the design is hurtling along as well, the bodywork is advanced, the running gear is near complete, the brakes are done, the controls are near complete and even the dreaded electronics are making progress.

The aim for 275kg and a £6k build cost is still looking good as well. The chassis is coming in at 49kg (CAD weight) which is a little heavy but its on the 'safe' side and includes mount for everything. Often weights for 'tubs' (carbon and Ally) dont include the engine mounting frames or roll hoops so arent true chassis weights.

I have also decided to use a hand clutch (the bike lever mounted on the gear lever) for the follwing reasons, its the lightest and simplest and cheapest way to do it (the bike lever is simply clamped around the gear lever), many people in sprints and hillclimbs upgrade to flat shifters so the clutch pedal is only used for the start and even without the clutch is only needed for the start and down shifts so having all of the weight of the 3rd pedal and long cable is a bit unecesary. I have used a 3 pedal florr mount though so if a clutch pedal was really wanted one could be fitted without chassis mods,

Some pictures:

Complete Chassis:

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Front End:

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Rear End:

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With Body:

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With Wheels:

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Front:

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[Edited on 7/8/15 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

Looks nice Callan!
I just hope that rear sub frame and diff centre are able to accept a 1000cc lump?
If so they may sell really well as budget 1000cc cars are becoming increasingly popular!

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Originally posted by daniel mason
Looks nice Callan!
I just hope that rear sub frame and diff centre are able to accept a 1000cc lump?
If so they may sell really well as budget 1000cc cars are becoming increasingly popular!

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That's identical to mine other than the aero floor looks a bit better than mine!

Well the engine fits (in miniature):


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Hopefully the 1/10th scale 3D print of the whole car should be done soon.

Unfortunately I couldn't print myself in miniture so I had to build afull size mock-up.


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Luckily I did this before I sent the chassis plans away to be made as its too short and too narrow. I have now added 100mm to the wheelbase (making it the same as a Formula Jedi) and some width to the cockpit around the steering wheel to give more clearance for my hands.

Chassis Build:

Chassis No. 1 (although annoyingly T89-002) is in production now. I'm having it made by a third party completely from the drawings without me involved so that he can pick up any mistakes in the drawings or general errors in the envisaged design process.


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Starting to get some of the fabricated parts back now, first is the water jet cut Rear Uprights and Rear Suspension Rockers:

Rockers:

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Rear Uprights to take Sierra Bearing carrier and Wilwood Dynapro caliper:

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The caliper mount lugs need to be milled back to get the correct caliper position but everything fits together perfectly.

Rear Suspension and driveline now fully sorted in the virtual world as well:


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Chassis Build coming along well:


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Chassis finished! Cant wait to get it home and start the build in anger:


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looking good, i think i might build a single seater next

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Originally posted by Rosco86
looking good, i think i might build a single seater next

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Looks great!

I'll be the first one with my hand up for plans - been watching this for a while and wanting to build a single seater for even longer.

Maybe if enough people build them, there might be some appetite for a race series - like a locost single seater class.

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Originally posted by StevieB
Looks great!

I'll be the first one with my hand up for plans - been watching this for a while and wanting to build a single seater for even longer.

Maybe if enough people build them, there might be some appetite for a race series - like a locost single seater class.

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A modern day terrapin...

I've been watching this build with a lot of interest and quite keen to build one of these myself. Will keep an eagle eye for further updates. Great stuff so far and look forward to further updates.

Cheers Mazie. The big job thats left to do is mount the engine, I haven't been able to find an accurate CAD model of a CBR600 F4 so I need to drop the engine into the chassis and make actaul engine mounts and then make the drawings from those.

Once thats done it will be a case of knocking out the drawings of the suspension fabrications and the asssembly drawings/BOM list and it will be ready to go.

Couple more pics from the chassis builder: (a lick of black primer certainly makesit look more finished)


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I've not updated this thread in a while, not because the project is stalled but mainly there has been alot of background activity going on. Part being manufactured and orders placed.

I have also had to complete the last major design task which was to fit the engine to the completed chassis, make the engine mounts and then reveres engineer them into CAD and drawings.

I have also applied to legally register the designs so that I shouldnt be ripped off once I start selling them and have also been beavering away on making it abit more pleaseing on the eye, especially with some more svelt side bodywork.

I have also managed to fit in a little homage to my favourite race car the Tyrrell P34 if anyone can spot it.


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I too am interested in this project. I am considering something along these lines for a bit of sprinting in a couple of years. Having bought plans in the past and currently being the proud owner of half a dozen books on building sprint cars, I would be interested in what you envisage the budget would be to build a rolling chassis?

Interesting question. One of the benefits of designing everything and creating a full parts list and BOM is that I will be able to give an exact figure when the design is complete. I havent done this yet but I will have a quick rough estimate.

Depending on your definition of rolling chassis though I can give some rough figures (assuming no labour costs on a home build).

For the minimum rolling chassis (chassis and suspension)

Fabricated Chassis and Suspension Materials (including MSA roll hoops at £260 and wishbone tube inserts etc etc): £350

Front RD Upright and Hub set ~£350

Rear Upright and Hub Set ~£250

So you could have a rolling chassis for <£1000

For everything except the engine and bodywork

Coilovers and Suspension parts ~£500-750
Steering Rack and Steering Parts £250
Driveshafts ~£50
Brakes ~£600
Diff £20
Propshaft £150
Fuel Tank £100
Control cables ~£50

So for another £2k you could be nearly there.

That leaves £2k for the engine, fasteners and bodywork if I am to keep below my £5k build target. If you use the donor bike that will supply alot of the fuel and electrical system.

The big difference between my design and a normal single seater is that because mine uses Kit Car standard and Off the shelf bits there are plenty of opportunities to by things second hand, find bargains or make your own which can save lots of money, whereas something like a Force needs Force parts all round which are difficult to find from sources other than the original supplier. And thats not a criticism of Force, I'm just using it as an example of how my car differs rather than just being another car in direct competition.

For instance I have managed to get two diffs for a total of £30 and driveshafts and driveshafts, bearing carriers and hubs for another £50 then I found a brand new propshaft the right length and with one end correct in a skip at a company I do some work for, I then had the other end swapped by a local prop' maker for £38 so saving myself £210. So my toal cost for the driveline (with two ratio options) is £120

[Edited on 1/12/15 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

I've just sent you a long U2U

Not been many updates in a while but I managed to get a couple of days work in over the Xmas period and have made a load of progress on the chassis.

The chassis was built as what I call the "Basic Chassis", a blank that doesnt have any bracketry specific to the parts being used so it would be the same for whatever engine/diff/steering/etc/etc that the builder whated to use.

The first task is turn this into the "Bracketed and Drilled" chassis with everything completed ready for final assembly. I could have had all of the parts laser cut but I have decided to do it all by hand to make sure that it can all be made easily at home if someone didnt have access to laser cutting.

Ignore the shoddy welding, I have only been lightly tacking everything together as the paid fabricator is coming back to weld it all up properly.

The first job was the cut the nose cone off, its made as part of the basic chassis (to ensure a perfect fit) but then cut off and brackets added so it can be bolted back on. Also in this picture are the inserts to hold the steering rack mounting blocks:

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Next job was to add the DRD racing pedal box, a weld in part that adds a lot of strength to the front end.

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Once that was done I could finally trial fit the tight packaging for the steering rack and Brake MC:

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And the try the nose cone on over the top:

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I then got onto the rear end, firstly finalising the engine and diff mounts and adding the inserts to the chassis rails to bolt to, which meant that I could finally fit up the driveline with the propshaft to check it all works:

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Next was radiator bracketry, it will use the bike radiator hung off the side with a fan and a small sidepod to duct air. It will eventually be a new radiator as the one from the bike looks knackered:

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And the fuel tank brackets were also made:

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The last jobs I managed were the rear suspension brackets, namely the rocker mounts and the inboard shock mounts:



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Currently its looking like a reasonable length build, 39 hours for the basic chassis to be made (completely custom fabricated) and so far about 12 hours on Miscalanious brackets with maybe another 6 hours to go to do the front suspension and controls (steering/gear lever mounts). 57 hours is quite alot but it has all been done by hand and I have been doing everything over-fastidiously on my first run through as well as feeding any issues I find back into the designs.

Not a lot of physical progress of late but some good design work (140+ drawings now completed).

More importantly though I have received my certificate of Design Right from the Intellectual Property Office which means my work is now protected out in the wide world from people who might use the plans to make money for themselves.

Although its only a certificate it feels like a big milestone

I've cleaned up the OT discussion from this thread and moved it here.

Any off topic or trolling posts in this thread from now on will be deleted. If you wish to carry on the discussion over suspension rocker bearings please do so in the thread linked above.

Cheers, Chris

Cheers Chris.

I have had a few people ask when plans are likely to be available for Purchase, the current aim is end of February. I have a couple of chassis bits to draw and a few body panels and that's it. Once done its a case of checking, locking things down and then making up nice folders full of drawings and info ready to send out.

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
More importantly though I have received my certificate of Design Right from the Intellectual Property Office which means my work is now protected out in the wide world from people who might use the plans to make money for themselves.

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Just been having a bash at the secondary part of the project, the transportation method.

My aim is to eliminate the need for a trailer and also give myself reason to buy a pick-up, but it needed to be big enough to carry a race car which means getting something from 'murica (which also means a V8 engine...). Late last year I found a 1995 Chevy K1500 with the extra long 2.55m bed and a 6.5 Turbo Diesel V8:


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Which according to my plan should carry the car like this:


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Still plenty of work to do on the truck conversion (managed to get a winch of CHNSS1 today which has helped) but cant wait to take it racing.

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
My aim is to eliminate the need for a trailer and also give myself reason to buy a pick-up

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Is the race car not supposed to be faster than the tow car Callan?

It may be 6.5 litres of Detroit muscle Dan but it most certainly isn't fast!

The engine is soooooo lazy and the auto-box isn't in a hurry either. It is though a really nice cruiser, surprisingly comfy ride and the cab is a nice place to be. At 70mph its like being in a big smooth car.

Love the polar opposites of racer and pickup! Small light and technically able and yhen a bloody Yank Tank! Priceless

Just a quick update on the progress on the plans for those who are interested in buying.

I have just a couple of bodywork drawings to finish now. Then its a case of Checking and PDF'ing everything ready to sell. I've even managed to write out some build notes.

Hopefully I can get a printer sorted within a couple of weeks with the aim of being able to send out packs by mid-March at the very latest ready for the nice spring weather and new projects time.

Each pack will be in its own A3 folder as its going to be over 200 pages in total! I always wanted to make it a "complete" set of plans and might have succeeded.

I would like to get a little bit of feedback on pricing as this is something that I have been struggling with. Opinion has been swinging between cheap and plentiful ( A La' Locost Book) or priced to reflect the detail aimed at genuine builders (more like Kit Aeroplane plans).

My current thoughts are somewhere in between and with modular options:

Basic Pack (Fabrication Drawings only + Parts list): £100+VAT

Full Pack (All Drawings + Build Guide + Parts List + Calculations): £150+VAT

Build Aids (Jig plate drawings/Tube Wraps/Etc): £25+VAT

Aero Upgrade Pack (I'm talkinng to an aerodynamicist about doing this): £25+VAT

Constructive thoughts welcome.

Just wish I had some time to get some work done on the actual car!

quote:

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
...Then its a case of Checking and PDF'ing everything ready to sell. I've even managed to write out some build notes.

Hopefully I can get a printer sorted within a couple of weeks with the aim of being able to send out packs by mid-March...

---

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Originally posted by Sam_68

quote:

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
...Then its a case of Checking and PDF'ing everything ready to sell. I've even managed to write out some build notes.

Hopefully I can get a printer sorted within a couple of weeks with the aim of being able to send out packs by mid-March...

---

Are you intending to supply as PDF electronic copies, or paper copies, or both?

Obviously there are potential copying issues with both, but PDF would make life a whole lot easier for you? Is it possible to protect PDF's with individual passwords or electronic 'fingerprints', so that if one did get released into the public domain, you'd know who to go after?

What are the 'calculations' you list? I must admit I'd be nervous about giving away that sort of underlying design knowledge free of charge, but then you know know cautious I am about IP in general!

Its a shame you won't have a finished, proven car before going on sale with plans - I can imagine that it would reassure a lot of people both in terms of the car's performance, and that solutions had been worked out for any issues, before they part with their money?

---

Looking good

Tilly

Cheers Tilly, hows Uni going?

Just thought I would load up probably the 'final' CAD pictures with everything now completed. I have also modelled up a set of Jedi Wings (that I have bought for it from Dan) to give an idea of what the final car should look like. I have been using a set of F3/FR2.0 wings in CAD which are a bit oversized.


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Hopefully I will get a chance to do a full CAD render using a package I have picked up but work should be concentrating on building the car and finishing the last drawings now.

Currently trying to decide what colour to have the chassis powder coated. Thinking I might go for Black/Carbon panels over electric blue to keep the corporate colour scheme but highlight the chassis more:


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I tried Black/Carbon over a Red chassis but it looks like a McLaren-Honda...

A good few new build pictures, all chassis bracketry is now complete with all of the bolt on bits trial fitted. Lots of work went into checking that all of the controls worked correctly. The chassis is going for final weld tonight and then off for Powder Coating next Monday:

Cockpit:

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Drivers View:

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Front End

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Gear Actuation:

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Finally having a large Chevy Truck is paying off, chassis went straight in the back with the tailgate able to shut. No messing:


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Took the chassis to be weighed today as well, very pleased as the weight in CAD was 55Kg and the weight on the scales was 56Kg so taking into account the weight of the weld its pretty much exactly as predicted. It looks tiny in real life out of th workshop:


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Looking good, will be running soon then!

Loving this!

Will you be selling the chassis, wishbones etc or just the plans?

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
Took the chassis to be weighed today as well, very pleased as the weight in CAD was 55Kg and the weight on the scales was 56Kg so taking into account the weight of the weld its pretty much exactly as predicted.

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Originally posted by rdodger
Loving this!

Will you be selling the chassis, wishbones etc or just the plans?

---

Plans are now finished and for sale:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=203232

20% Discount for the bank holiday launch.

Have got most of the fabricated parts back now, Engine Hanger, Diff Hanger, Gear Lever, Steering Column and Upper wishbones. Just waiting on the pushrods and upper wishbones now:


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I completed the final chassis preparation this weekend and dropped it off this morning for Powder coating.

One of the neat features (well I think so anyway) is that the suspension pickups are all on two flat planes, which means that they can be drilled after the chassis welding is complete and there is line of site to cross measure between all of the suspension mounting points. Ensuring that the suspensions is aligned side to side and front to back.
This means that any distortion from welding or inaccuracy in the chassis does not affect the suspension geometry (as long as its not completely off).

Cross measuring the front before drilling:

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Measuring the suspension pick-up for the rear end before drilling:

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I also picked up a set of Formula Jedi wings this weekend, thanks to Dan Mason for doing these at a really good price.

Chassis looked really nice Callan!

Cheers Dan, appreciated.

A colleague of mine has generously done some renderings from the CAD model, I may be biased but I have to say that its turned out to be quite a pretty little car especially as it is all driven by function. I really like the 90's Tyrrell-esque colour scheme as well.


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I particularly like this 'moody' shot, I'm really glad that the chassis is being powder coated blue now:


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looks very smart! cant wait to see a finished one in the flesh!

Chassis collected from the powder coaters today, its looks amazing in bright blue:


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Collecting the aluminium for the panels this week and then its on with the final push to assemble it.

This is a great looking build. I like the idea of a full set of plans for the car as well.

A few questions:
What diff and rear end did you end up using? The build diary mentions both Freelander and Sierra gear.
With the rear uprights how do you envisage home builders accessing/making them?
Would you supply any electronic drawings for people to have parts laser cut locally? (I'm in Australia)

I have just sent you a U2U Mitch which should answer all of your questions.

Some good progress on the sales and design front recently. I have just picked up a complete MX5 rear end so that I can do the much-requested MX5 Driveline option:


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Also the final build up has started, its not much but the Bib went on last night and all of the floor/bulkhead panels are now cut and folded:


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I have been pushing on with final assembly this weekend. Thanks to my mates for helping lift the engine in.

The chassis is now panelled, engine & drivetrain are in and the steering and loads of other bits are being built up.


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(yes I know the propshaft need re-phasing)

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Steering drop plate needs a stiffening rib adding:

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Looking good now pal

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Originally posted by Rosco86
Looking good now pal

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A good few updates on progress. I have now set a deadline to be running at the NSCC Curborough Sprint on July 2nd so I now have a looming deadline to finish the car. Realistically I have 5 weeks to get it done so that I can get everything ready to go.

Sales are also doing well, numbers are modest but my goal was simply to sell more than Zero and I have long since surpassed that. Lots of interest and I think sales will accelerate when the car is out in the world competing.

Anyway some pictures:

Rear uprights machined (just need holes drilling for suspension pick-ups:

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Front Hubs:

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I piggybacked the original bike woring loom onto the car and started the engine at the weekend. I have since chopped the loom down to remove the unnecessary bits and started it up again to check I didn't knacker anything and it all works fine:

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Steering in and looking good:

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So I managed to wrangle from 11am Saturday to 11am Monday as uninterrupted 'garage time'.

I ordered up every part I thought I would need, bought some beer and pizza and moved the TV into the garage (ready for Monaco "wow", Indy 500 "awesome" and Top Gear "oh dear" ) . Managed about 29 hours work in total and took the car from a "Chassis with an Engine" to an almost rolling car.

The drivetrain is complete, tested and run up. The suspension is all fitted but just waiting on Coilovers and a couple of bolts, the controls are all fitted and the brakes are nearly done.

Engine bay all finished:

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Rear Wing and Post Fitted:

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Front Suspension Fitted (note that the dampers are just dummies and are 2" too short)

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Rear Suspension Done (the rear dampers are also Dummies that are too short)

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Really now its just a case of getting and fitting the dampers, making the bodywork and finishing the brake lines.

[Edited on 31/5/16 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

The rear end is now complete (well aside from commissioning), all of the suspension and driveline are built up. The exhaust is done (in true 'locost' style it cost £27). I ran it up through the gear yesterday and all works perfectly.

To complete the front end I now just have to fit the front struts (when the springs arrive) and finish one brakeline when the fitting arrives.

Anyway; Exhaust, its not too everyones taste but it is proper 'Locost', the manifold and rear can from the donor bike, with e universal silencer and a 90° bend.


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Rear suspension is now also finished:


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Hopefully I'll have pictures of the finished front end tonight and then its just panelling.

The car has to be finished within 7 days.... to leave me two weeks to get ready for its debut at Curborough on July 2nd.

The mx5 option you mentioned a few posts back, will that include front and rear uprights or are you thinking just the diff ?

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Originally posted by big_wasa
The mx5 option you mentioned a few posts back, will that include front and rear uprights or are you thinking just the diff ?

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I will keep watching progress

Looking good, I might have a ride over to see it on the 2nd

Have you entered Blyton in July Callan? There's a good number in 5a already entered

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Originally posted by daniel mason
Have you entered Blyton in July Callan? There's a good number in 5a already entered

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Front Suspension and Brake Lines were finished off last night. Obviously its on full droop being up on the stands:


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Also instead of using the standard "Foam Bag" seat I have just used a low price OMP Kart seat, it fits perfectly and is rather comfortable:


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Just the harness to bolt in and then its bodywork.

Tried the 9x13 Revolution wheels on last night, everything clears and they look wiiidddddeeeee!


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What size slicks are going on there? 8/22?

230/570 Radials, seem to be a common size without requiring mega expensive wheels. The Revolutions were £114 each for the rear.

[Edited on 17/6/16 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

Are you going to compete with this car???

You can 'overtyre' a car, and that little light(ish) car doesn't need anywhere near those size tyres, particularly with the power in it.

Then there's the weight of the big tyres, added to the big wheels. The extra is going to be a significant percentage of the total weight.

£114 for the 9" Revolution wheels, is that second hand, or are they not the lightened competition wheels that Revolution do that cost over £150 normally?

Intrigued, to say the least.

We estimated that by swapping to 10" wheels for the 600 car, we could save near to 10kg's over the 13" wheels, and possibly a lot more. 10" quad bike wheels weigh about 2.5 kg's, and less than £200 for 4. Hoosier tyres on the other hand, aren't cheap, even worse are the Dunlops. and Avons.

Cheers,
Nev.



[Edited on 17/6/16 by Neville Jones]

quote:

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Originally posted by Neville Jones
Are you going to compete with this car???

You can 'overtyre' a car, and that little light(ish) car doesn't need anywhere near those size tyres, particularly with the power in it.

Then there's the weight of the big tyres, added to the big wheels. The extra is going to be a significant percentage of the total weight.

£114 for the 9" Revolution wheels, is that second hand, or are they not the lightened competition wheels that Revolution do that cost over £150 normally?

Intrigued, to say the least.

We estimated that by swapping to 10" wheels for the 600 car, we could save near to 10kg's over the 13" wheels, and possibly a lot more. 10" quad bike wheels weigh about 2.5 kg's, and less than £200 for 4. Hoosier tyres on the other hand, aren't cheap, even worse are the Dunlops. and Avons.

Cheers,
Nev.



[Edited on 17/6/16 by Neville Jones]

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Its worth noting that using smaller rolling radius slicks 20" vs 21" or 22", the tyre footprint is significantly altered.
A92 fronts and possibly rears for hills, but may need to be A15 rears for long sprints (Ty Croes for instance)

A15's all round for me on a mix of hills and sprints.

We've got 13" slicks here, which were destined for single seaters. ( Don't ask. My son would get in strife if I made it public. ) A bit different to the norm, and very sticky when you get the skin off, from very cold to hot.

Unlike nearly all slicks, these don't harden with use, just get a dry surface on the top after three or so days. Take the skin off, and you've got a tyre that sticks to a smooth concrete floor, cold. Sounds like tearing gaffer tape off when you move them. They come plastic wrapped. Getting the skin off needs some time and 80 grit sandpaper though!

Nearly every major tyre maker does slicks, you just have to be prepared to venture from the accepted standards to find what works. Tyre chemistry and chemical formulations are as many as the stars in the sky.

Cheers,
Nev.

Wheels and tyres fitted and most of the bodywork cut and folded:


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The running gear is now all done (apart from a geo set-up), brakes are bled and everything is ready to go. Just need bodywork (still), craning it down off the chassis stands was a tense moment:


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But I still needed a racecar transporter.

1995 Chevy K1500 Long Bed, converted to a racecar transporter, its a bit limited to cars with a <2400mm ( ~94" ) wheel base and very little overhang but it means not having the storage issue or faff of a trailer and being able to drive around in something I like driving.

I think it may be the best "petrolhead" thing I have done:


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[Edited on 20/6/16 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

looks wicked, also looks great on the truck, be nice to see it with the body work on, how much simpler is a build with no IVA to worry about!!

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Originally posted by Rosco86
looks wicked, also looks great on the truck, be nice to see it with the body work on, how much simpler is a build with no IVA to worry about!!

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Are you still going to make Curborough on Saturday? I will planning on coming for a look in the morning...

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Originally posted by prawnabie
Are you still going to make Curborough on Saturday? I will planning on coming for a look in the morning...

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I finished off the front wing and nose panel last night, doesn't look half bad:


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Also, sorry to let people down but I wont be at Curborough this weekend. I mentioned it on Facebook but it became clear that the amount of work I was doing was affecting my health and my family life and also making me a miserable basterd (even more so than usual) which wasn't fair on anyone. I'm still cracking on with the final jobs but at my own pace. I'd say August is a realistic target.

Its looking amazing, great work and dont fret about pushing back the due date. No point building it and then it becoming the thing of hatred.

Waiting to see videos of it in action!

Cheers,
Taffy

I got my set of Terrapin plans through earlier in the week so thought I would knock up a quick 3D model of the Terrapin chassis based on the plans for a quick comparison.

I deliberately never looked at the Terrapin plans before I started my project (so that I wouldn't just be making a knock off) but did use a number of Staniforth books for reference. I quite surprised and pleased out the comparison particularly on the size and position of the chassis tubes.

Anyway:

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I've had these printed up by a guy I'm working alongside and think they are a great little finishing touch for the car. They are printed in ABS so are pretty darn sturdy. The set comprises of two adaptors that fit into the ram-air intake of the original Honda airbox and a roll hoop mounted air-intake. So much easier than manufacturing something from Ali' or GRP and they fit perfectly, the main limitation is the size, the roll hoop intake is right on the limit of size in all three directions.


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Just waiting for the connector hose to arrive and they can be plumbed up.

I have been asked a few times when the car is going to debut and if I can post some more general pictures so thought I would answer both.

I am now booked in for a test at Curborough on August 25th, hopefully its just a few last jobs to get done now and it should be ready to run.

And here are a load of general pictures I took last night:

Rear wing post, adjuster and exhaust:

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Exhaust tail pipe:

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Engine bay (still some tidying up to do):

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Seat (harness just requires bolting in):

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Gear and Clutch Lever:

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Front Corner:

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Front End:

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Exhaust (total cost of £27):

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Rear Corner:

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Currently Untidy wiring:

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Pedals:

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[Edited on 25/7/16 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

Those 3D printed parts look very smooth and very nice!

Do you know what printer he used to make them and if he did any post processing to smooth the surfaces?

Cheers,
David

quote:

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Originally posted by worthidlj
Those 3D printed parts look very smooth and very nice!

Do you know what printer he used to make them and if he did any post processing to smooth the surfaces?

Cheers,
David

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Managed to get the car set-up over the last couple of nights and borrow some corner weights... pretty pleased with the results. I have been aiming at 330Kg for a ready-to-run car and ended up at 327kg with 2l of fuel on-board but the wings removed (they were driving me mad getting in the way while doing the set-up work).

I'm mainly pleased because my car is about as heavy as you would ever build one, it has the lower cost steel pedals and coilovers, a slightly heavier earlier chassis design, a cheap (and ruddy heavy) Jetex Silencer as well as a steel bike end can and a set of rally spec wheels that aren't light at all. Also there is plenty of weight to be removed in optimising bolt length and weight reduction on the rear hubs.

Also despite the nay-sayers I have managed to keep the weight offset to a minimum with just 6kg across the rear wheels (without jacking the RH side up) which I'm happy with.

I think with a little bit of simple weight reduction 310Kg is achievable for a complete car.


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This is the first place I come to when I visit this forum. What you've done and how well you've done it is seriously impressive. Please keep the updates coming and be sure to take plenty of videos when up and running.

Paul

Well done Callan. Some good testing needed now!

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Originally posted by Fcck2000
This is the first place I come to when I visit this forum. What you've done and how well you've done it is seriously impressive. Please keep the updates coming and be sure to take plenty of videos when up and running.

Paul

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And to top it all off,he's an honest,likeable guy! What's not to like?
It would be great to have a few more 1000cc race cars out next year!

Cheers guys, encouragement always appreciated.

As mentioned we are booked to run on the 25th of August and its literally only finishing touches left to do. If that goes well I want to enter the NSCC champ' event at Harewood in September.

Managed to grab a few moments over the weekend and the little job I managed was to remove the seized on Jedi wing end plates, clean them up and fit my own stickers. Its a little thing but it seems like a huge step to be fitting my own branding to my own car:


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Also some new 3D printed Ram-Air intakes were completed for a customers cars to fit a GSXR600 engine:


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Went for the initial shakedown and some testing at curborough today.

The car was excellent, even better than I expected. I was particularly pleased with the really predictable neutral handling. Steering, brakes, suspension and chassis were all superb.

Only teething problems were a slipping clutch (i should have forseen this on an engine with 41k on the clock) and some overheating caused by a faulty fan switch. Oh and the rain, the bloooooodddyyyy rain!


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It looks really good - still waiting to move house but still want to get some plans once I'm in and set up!

Looks very good - more simple and Jedi-like than I expected, in the whole (which is a good thing)!

When is its competition debut?

Top job there! Looks epic, really nice design and you've pulled off the build really well.

If I had more garage space I'd be buying the plans now, but it'll have to wait for a while.

Have you got an up to date approx. total spend to build the car?

Looks awesome, street legal version?

Cheers all.

Competition debut most likely next year now. Engine needs to come out to replace the clutch but I might use that opportunity to stick a 1000cc lump in there (for development work of course).

Approx build cost (like any Locost) is as little or much as you want really. If you do all the work yourself and search for a bargain on the engine and a few other bits a rolling chassis and power train could be done for £2.5k but then you could blast £4k on a set of shocks and £5k on an engine if you were so inclined.

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Originally posted by craigdiver
Looks awesome, street legal version?

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors

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Originally posted by craigdiver
Looks awesome, street legal version?

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News coming soon on that.

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Yes it looks fantastic.


No chance of working the mx5 front uprights ? As a good pair can be had for 1/10 the cost of the RD's fitting with "Locost" ethos and more of a single donor option.

So the Rd uprights are £195
Pair of hubs £80
Grease caps, bearings and studs £35
Total with vat £372 give or take...

Besides I have a set of mx5 ready for a project and your little car would suit my little garage

[Edited on 28/8/16 by big_wasa]

I had a look at the MX5 front uprights but its not something I'm going to do. Unlike the rear MX5 uprights (which were near identical geometry to what I had already) the fronts are very very different. Basically there would be 3 options to make them fit:

1) A completely different front chassis arrangement (money and time)
2) A lot of re-work and adaptors for the front uprights (even more money and time)
3) Just have the worse geometry (and compromise the car)

And whichever one you choose you also end up with more un-sprung mass.

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Originally posted by craigdiver

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Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors

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Originally posted by craigdiver
Looks awesome, street legal version?

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News coming soon on that.

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You tease

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Ok thanks for the reply. The reason I buy plans like yours, like the books is I am no designer.

You have got me really interested in the car engine version.

Give us a hint on donor ?

[Edited on 29/8/16 by big_wasa]

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Originally posted by big_wasa
Yes it looks fantastic.


No chance of working the mx5 front uprights ? As a good pair can be had for 1/10 the cost of the RD's fitting with "Locost" ethos and more of a single donor option.

So the Rd uprights are £195
Pair of hubs £80
Grease caps, bearings and studs £35
Total with vat £372 give or take...

Besides I have a set of mx5 ready for a project and your little car would suit my little garage

[Edited on 28/8/16 by big_wasa]

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Cheers Mitch, put much more succinctly than I managed.

A hint? Simple, Lightweight, compact and cheap. And not 4cyl. (No its not a Smart car)

[Edited on 29/8/16 by Doctor Derek Doctors]

A couple of early photos (don't worry I'm buying the un-watermarked versions... I'm not that stingy)


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Have decided to sell the car so somebody can use it properly, possible opportunity to run it as a works team with factory support and some sponsorship.

Advert:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/34/viewthread.php?tid=205885&page=1#pid1725330

I thought I better book-end this project diary before I start a new one for a new car.

I didnt sell the car in the end, it was upgraded to the latest version (PH1.2), loads of weight reduction and performance parts and I have started competing in it. It ruddy aweseme! Everything is was hoping it would be and massive fun.

Some pictures from Croft:


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And now, time for the Roughshark!