Sorry this isn't the right area of the forum, really. It appears the 'New Members' section isn't working. Though I am intending to start a new project, so I suppose this are fits... kind of.

I'm hopefully about to embark on my first real ground-up build this year and for all my googling this site seemed to consistently throw up the most answers for me, so thanks! I figured it might be an idea to join the community so I can be pointed in the right direction when (inevitably) I run into various problems!

A little about me...

I bought a half-built Robin Hood S7 when I was 18 and with my dad eventually got it road-worthy and passed an MOT, I was too young at the time to get any insurance company not to laugh at me and with the financial pressure of university it was soon sold. Now in my late 20's and having owned a few of the classic 80's and 90's Japanese cars I want something a little more focused for occasional road use and a bit of a track machine.

I was initially after a Ginetta G40 but ultimately dismissed it as it is out of my price range and I don't think I could live with such terrible panel fitments. I then looked into a Ginetta G20 as the prices are reasonable and ticked all the boxes; a space-frame chassis, double-wishbone suspension all-round, great aesthetics.

But then I saw the Fisher/Sylva Fury, which ticked all the boxes aswell while (supposedly) having a stiffer chassis to the Ginetta as triangulation is superior - so that's what I'm set on! The thing is I've never built a kit-car from scratch before and although I can use a spanner I'm certainly no mechanic, and the Fisher website is not exactly a wealth of information.

Has anyone here built a Fury from scratch? How easy are they to build? What donor items do you need to source? Etc..

Thanks

Might be worth having a look at Martin's project page http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk he's tims31 on here

Thanks PMC, that site has some good starting information on it. I'll go through it with a fine-tooth comb tonight.

I don't know who the person is but I read many years ago the Ultima and the MegaBlade blogs also by him and thought they were very good:
http://www.furybusa.org.uk/intro.php

I'm rebuilding my fury for the third time - with huge mods this time.

My blog is furyrebuild.co.uk

By all means PM me and I'll talk you through the first build (pure from the factory). It's a great car and as you say, ticks two major boxes - aesthetics and stiffness.

Thanks for the offer Fury, I will be taking you up on that.

Your blog is pretty extensive - I see you model a fair amount of your own components to be 3D printed? What CAD software do you use? That GUI doesn't look familiar to me and I thought I was up on most of the design packages out there.

Also noticed you restored the chassis at one point due to rust propagation, presumably where the powder coat had scratched? Is this something that happens frequently? If so I may factor in a hot-zinc or galvanise treatment on the spaceframe before everything is bolted together.

OK - to answer your questions in order

I'm using Onshape. It's cloud based and works very well on my iPad Pro. It exports nicely to STL, and I feed that through Simplify3D for slicing. I like Onshape because it gives me all the things I need (parametric, 3D, etc.) and if you're willing to save your designs as open and visible to all, it's free.

I'm currently modelling parts in PLA, but if any of them transfer to the actual car, I'll reprint them in Nylon. So, as an example I'll print the new alternator mounts, get the geometry right, and then make a quick mould from them. After this, I'll probably make the part in chopped carbon paste. It's quick and easy, but isn't cosmetic. That's still way cheaper than buying a £500 kit.

My chassis had issues early on - I understood from some people that sometimes perhaps, the original company (from years ago, not Steve and the current incumbents) used to leave the chassis for too long between blasting and coating, or even not blasting if cash was tight. My powder coat came off in huge lumps, not small areas around the points I'd drilled. This comes from a micro-fine layer of rust on the surface that develops before coating. In essence, your powder is sticking to rust.