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Type 9 from Cable to Hydraulic conversion
karlak - 15/7/11 at 01:39 PM

As part of my Duratec change I have decided to change ot a Hydraulic Clutch on the Type9 Gearbox.

Has anyone done this ?


I have bought the suggested Ford Clutch cylinder/Actuator, but it does not clear the outer shaft on the Gearbox. It has been said that I need to remove the outer shaft (by unscrewing) the 4 bolts and then cut the shaft back?


Does this sound right?


Not sure I have explained the above very well, perhaps I can add some pictures if it helps. Basically the Centre part of the clutch actuator is too small to clear the static shaft of the gearbox.


bbwales - 15/7/11 at 01:51 PM

Hi,

I have converted my Type 9 to hydraulic, but I did it the easy way, I made a bracket to fit to the outside of the bell housing and mounted a slave cylinder onto it, the push rod operates the clutch actuation arm as per the cable. Cost me £30 which included the master cylinder (all parts new) and it has worked well for a year plus, which included a trip to Spain and around 5500 miles to date.

Regards

Bob


big-vee-twin - 15/7/11 at 01:52 PM

Yes you do need to cut off the guide tube from the front of the box which the input shaft spins within.

You may also need to trim the fingers on your pressure plate too


blakep82 - 15/7/11 at 02:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by bbwales
Hi,

I have converted my Type 9 to hydraulic, but I did it the easy way, I made a bracket to fit to the outside of the bell housing and mounted a slave cylinder onto it, the push rod operates the clutch actuation arm as per the cable. Cost me £30 which included the master cylinder (all parts new) and it has worked well for a year plus, which included a trip to Spain and around 5500 miles to date.

Regards

Bob


imo, the EASY way is to get the full kit form rally design, thats what i ended up doing. phone them up though, and and they'll get you sorted. although, if you have space in the tunnel for the clutch arm (i didn't) then Bobs way works too! just might involve finding all the right parts, and making brackets


bbwales - 15/7/11 at 02:57 PM

I had to cut a hole in the side of the tunnel so that I could bleed the slave cyl and then make a removable cover which works fine and is a very good foot rest for your left foot. The Master cyl and Slave cyl both came from ebay and if I remember correctly were off a LandRover. The bracket was easily made and fitted to holes I had drilled and tapped.

It is the joy of these vehicles in so much as you make them to suit what you have and what you want.

Regards

Bob


James - 15/7/11 at 03:15 PM

Flak Monkey's written a whole guide on here or his website about how he did his using a Saab slave cylinder.

Needed a bit of turning I believe.

Cheers,
James


karlak - 15/7/11 at 04:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by big-vee-twin
Yes you do need to cut off the guide tube from the front of the box which the input shaft spins within.

You may also need to trim the fingers on your pressure plate too



Thanks guys.


BigVtwin - when I remove that plate, is it gonna dump all the gearbox oil ?

Just need to decide whether to do it in the garage or move it into the yard if its going to be messy.


Cheers


stevec - 15/7/11 at 05:01 PM

I have used one of These on my Type 9 with a Saab 900 concentric slave with modified mtg holes.

Steve

[Edited on 15/7/11 by stevec]


big-vee-twin - 15/7/11 at 06:15 PM

When you take the nose off it does break the oil seal, you may as well fit new seals while your doing it and change the cork gasket at the same time.

Some oil will come out but you shouldn't dump the contents of the box.