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carlknight1982 - 31/12/12 at 04:26 PM

hi guys got this lump in my jago,
she hadnt ran since 93 before i took her on, i fitted new points chanced the oil and filter put petrol in the tank and started her,

ran it up today to find very hard to start, when fully choked and given some throttle she runs ok no popping or banging but i did notice that very quickly that cylinder 2 and 3 exhaust pipes glow cherry red,

any thoughts:?

carl


Paul Turner - 31/12/12 at 04:44 PM

Normally that indicates that those 2 cylinders are running very lean or the spark is way to advanced. But if its on a standard Ford carb and dizzy all the cylinders should be running the same mixture and advance thus all the downpipes should be the same temp.

What are the plugs like, no mention of changing them, after the best part of 20 years not running it might be an idea.

Have you checked the valve clearances.

Other than that I am stumped on something as simple as a clockwork x-flow.


carlknight1982 - 31/12/12 at 04:46 PM

Plugs are next me thinks, standard webber carb & dizzy


thunderace - 31/12/12 at 04:58 PM

i would buy a colortune


snakebelly - 31/12/12 at 05:08 PM

check for an inlet manifold leak as well


rusty nuts - 31/12/12 at 07:20 PM

Check the ignition timing and the auto advance isn't partially siezed, retarded timing will make the exhaust run very hot. Might be a good idea to do a compression test, sticking valves would cause poor starting and may cause the exhaust to run hot


chillis - 31/12/12 at 07:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
Normally that indicates that those 2 cylinders are running very lean or the spark is way to advanced. But if its on a standard Ford carb and dizzy all the cylinders should be running the same mixture and advance thus all the downpipes should be the same temp.

What are the plugs like, no mention of changing them, after the best part of 20 years not running it might be an idea.

Have you checked the valve clearances.

Other than that I am stumped on something as simple as a clockwork x-flow.


If the exhaust is glowing then the ignition advance is too retarded not too advanced. A retarded spark moves end of combustion closer the the point where the exhaust valve opens so the exhaust gas is hotter as it exits the port.
Check the vac advance is working and that the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 is seating well.


johnwilders - 31/12/12 at 10:13 PM

If its running through one down draft weber & only two branches are glowing red then I’d go with Rusty Nuts valve problem. Best thing you can do is give it to me & fit a more modern lump.


britishtrident - 31/12/12 at 10:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by chillis
quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
Normally that indicates that those 2 cylinders are running very lean or the spark is way to advanced. But if its on a standard Ford carb and dizzy all the cylinders should be running the same mixture and advance thus all the downpipes should be the same temp.

What are the plugs like, no mention of changing them, after the best part of 20 years not running it might be an idea.

Have you checked the valve clearances.

Other than that I am stumped on something as simple as a clockwork x-flow.


If the exhaust is glowing then the ignition advance is too retarded not too advanced. A retarded spark moves end of combustion closer the the point where the exhaust valve opens so the exhaust gas is hotter as it exits the port.
Check the vac advance is working and that the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 is seating well.



100% right about too retard my first move would be to check the idle jets on each barrel of the carb is clear also ignition points gap on all 4 cylinders


rusty nuts - 1/1/13 at 09:15 AM

What make distributor has it got? the Motorcraft distributor should have a gap of 0,025" whereas the Bosch should be 0.018" IIRC using too small a gap will retard the timing and as I said earlier the advance /retard mechanism can sieze especially on Bosch units. Check all vacuum and breather hoses are OK and dont forget the breather valve on the side of the block which could be stuck open causing in effect an air leak