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Author: Subject: my 1st blacktop zetec install help/advice coventry
big_wasa

posted on 25/2/12 at 09:57 PM Reply With Quote
Anything M reg on will be pats.

Pats = Passive Anti Theft System

so just J, K and L reg are pre Pats.

All the mondeo manifolds are plastic, early fiesta/ escort where alloy like the one in my vid (three types) Its easy to make a log/plenum style mani' to make getting it in a 7 easier. Do a search for Ginneta, griffin, and GBS mani's.

Silver tops came as phase 1 and 2 upto 97~98 then went to the phase 3 black top.

There is a lot of wiring to get your head around. I find wiring easy others dont. Its very cheap and runs like a stock car.

I have paid as little as a quid for an ecu with keys.

[Edited on 25/2/12 by big_wasa]

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 25/2/12 at 10:49 PM Reply With Quote
why are you in bloody the blummin flatlands of the uk big-wasa???????? i'm not overly fussed at present about going down the power route, i may be going down the wrong track but would a stock ecu run bike throttle bodies at all? with stock injectors? or would the air/fuel be all over the place?

i only ask as i know chap that breaks bikes


i understand what sensors do what on FI but as you say the wiring just blows me away a bit, i'm only getting my head around megajolt LOL & it dont work YET! it will i am confidant!

i possibly have to many parts i would have to buy to make FI work

what would be parts list of thigs i'd need?

oh where is the water temp sender/sencer usually located on a silvertop zetec? cheers again big wasa

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big_wasa

posted on 26/2/12 at 08:49 AM Reply With Quote
Yep Will121 has done it with good results.

The ecu just needs to see the correct sensor values. This does mean making a plenum for the maf. There is also an issue with the Tps giving the wrong value.

Coolant temp sensors, there are two in the thermostat housing on the back of the head.

Top one is for the dash, bottom one for the ecu.

Your engine will have come with most of the sensors you need. You have the Throttle body ? black plastic plenum ?
There is a black rubber hose that goes from this to the Maf and in the bottom of this is the Inlet air temp (Iat) sensor.

Ecu with rdif chip ie key after 95 Obd2 port after 1997.

Let us know what engine you have and I will have more of an idea.

This is how ive got mine in a 7 with a home made inlet mani' The whole lot stands me at less than a bought Mjl



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verybudgetzetec

posted on 26/2/12 at 05:44 PM Reply With Quote
i have no maff or inlet pipework! also looking at the plasting banana inlet i dont thing its going to clear my brake master & servo setup on my motor, its too blummin wide at the top end, bike bodies will clear so maybe thats the option????

i need to get some thinners to clean up where the numbers are on the block as i cant make them out, think there is NCA & the good news is there is a 20 cast into the block :OD i think the engine may be from a 1998 car as there is 98 on the cambelt cover with various other letters/numbers

i have turned it over with a spanner & there seems to be good compression, stripped all the un needed crap off for the scrap man such as a PAS pump & bracketry, alternator bracket & exhaust manifild which i may reuse initially, took off the coil bracket & what lookslike an egr setup off it! aalso the cam cover says zetec on the left hand side & dord at the other end, this should be a clue of its age but i cant find the website i seen this info so i'll have to have a scout around the web?

also managed to get the flywheel off chrikey its a bit of a beast in weight, a vw van i had previously the flywheeel was'nt as heavy as the zetec 2.0 one! :O also managed to loosen the crank pulley bolt but nipped it back up, somtimes these are a sod to undo are'nt they

gotta pick up a tin of GUNK & then jetwash it within an inch of its life!

the front & rear crank oil seals have no signs of weeping oil which is a good sign i hope, cam cover gasket is leaky looking but no great shakes & its defo in need of a cambelt! possibly the cam seals may need swapping but i think they are only a tenner a set so its rude not to

i'll get some pics tomorrow & post them up of all my parts i have!!!!! i think this will help you guys to advis me

really impressed with various features of the zetec, its physical size for a start, they are quite small for thier 2.0 capacity, light engine also, not like a t-series rover turbo lump (beast of an engine) also this motor i have has a rear bowel type sump which is also what i believe is the type 2.0 mondeos had & escorts etc had a front bowl sump, i need rear bowl sump in my car anyway so it may do the job as is fingers crossed!!!!

also managed to pick up some cvh parts/brackets for alternator etc etc

do i need a differant water pump for the silvertop seeing as its now a rwd configuration

is it worth me whipping just the head off for a gander at the pistons & cylinder head valves, also are these stretch bolts that hold the head on????

so all in, not the worst day, if it turns out to be a good running motor for the money paid i'll be super chuffed

i love engine fiddling, peeing around with axles gearbox's bodywork but i think i have some form of wiring dyslexia-i really would like to fully know what i'm doing when it comes to ecus etc etc & how to check various things with sensors, should have paid more attention in maths at skool i think!

[Edited on 26/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 26/2/12 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
big wasa thats a lovery neat setup there in the pic, pretty damn impressed! very very neat! which remonds me on the side of the block there is a small sender or sensor with a threaded part sticking out-what is it?

my engine has a crank position sensor in it already so thats a good start

zetec is defo going to be a nice jump up from the current old pushrod single carb motor at 25mpg at best!

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big_wasa

posted on 26/2/12 at 06:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by verybudgetzetec which remonds me on the side of the block there is a small sender or sensor with a threaded part sticking out-what is it?



Inlet side, low down behind the alternator ? Sounds like the low oil pressure warning light.

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 26/2/12 at 07:13 PM Reply With Quote
cheers big wasa i have managed to get some pics so i'll get them uploaded!

heres some pics, excuse the rubbish quality
this is the sender or sensor i'm curious as to what it is, i was thinking it was oil pressure?????

cam cover, may be a clue to the motors age


front of the motor i have removed all the covers as i'm a bit of a fan of seeing whats going on when a motor is running!


you can see 20 cast into the block here


the numbers/letters on the cambelt cover


i'll get the numbers/letter on the block tomorrow when i give it a wipe with thinners

hope this helps you guys help newbie me, be good to get it all cleaned up this week

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big_wasa

posted on 26/2/12 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
Yep its the oil switch.

So you have a phase two silvertop.

Yep you want a fiesta/escort waterpump and pulley unless you want to mess about with idlers.

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big_wasa

posted on 26/2/12 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
Engine code will be NGA not nca That just means its a phase 2 2.0 mondeo.

Was it from an auto or manual car ?

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 26/2/12 at 07:45 PM Reply With Quote
thats the thing i can ask the chap, i dont know if its from an auto or manual, the auto wont have the same type flywheel as a manual will it?

yep defo want the the most simple solution to the water pump! i'm a great believer in just using bare essentials & keeping solutions to probs as simple as possible

its journey this zetec lark hey :OP

just whipped the plugs out & they appear a bit black rather than a sandy colour is this normal on fuel injection? as i'm mr dizzy & carb i like to see sandy colour plugs lol

i do understand that if the motor had air leaks in the intake pipework the ecu will chuck more fuel in wont it, trying to compensate

[Edited on 26/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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big_wasa

posted on 26/2/12 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
if it came with a flywheel and not a torque converter then it will be a manual.

There could be any number of faults making it run rich.

Faulty lambda, cat, maf, Temp sensors, air leaks.

Had to do my mates focus on saturday for mot. Loads of air leaks due to cracked plastic pipes and a shot lambda. It was using some juice.

Fine now and passed.

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 26/2/12 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
yeah i understand it can be a number of issues, one i did noince was the tube that bolts into the exhaust manifold was not airtight at all, its like a big bracke pipe type fitting, so thats defo on issue that could cause the black plugs eh

you are man of skillz sir, i have hoaxed out an issue of ppc magazine which has a run down of what sensors what they do etc etc so i can have a read of the basics, try to clue myself up a bit

there are'nt actually that many sensers on the silvertop zetec is there! not many on the main block itself!

the bit that confuses me most i think is how i power it up & also hooking it up to say the stock temp gauge, as i am using a set of dash clocks from a triumph! so its not a smiths gauge or simular, same deal with the my oil pressure idiot light, & eventually the hooking up the battery & alternator as i have used some of he triumph loom aswel

i may have to do some freshening up of various parts of my car when going this zetec route anyway, i'm even at present using a crappy triumph live axle that i think is made of cheese as i'm on my 3rd diff, but that issue is also a job in the pipline as i have got a 4ha axle never gonna break that am i

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 28/2/12 at 04:18 PM Reply With Quote
ok had a look at the block to see what numbers/letters are on this motor & found the following

nca wj70369
21 D 98

also the only sensers/senders on the block & head are

oil pressure
crank position sensor that read off the flywheel
cam position senser in the head below the cam cover breather
water temp on the thermostat housing

so any other sensers i presume are all to do with the injection setup
the ones i know off are the maff senser which reads the amount of oxygen going in the motor
the throttle position sensor thats usually on the throttle butterfly shaft
usually a lambda sensor in the exhaust i think

other than that i'm a bit lost, can i for instance make the engine loom super basic ie a switched & permanat live to the ecu to run the ecu/injection????

obviously i'd need to plumb in a electric fuel pump & fuel return line aswell but i could do this off a separate circuit could'nt i or possibly the same circuit that power up the ecu???

i'm "sortof" getting my head around it :/

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big_wasa

posted on 28/2/12 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
So your motor was made May 1998.

I think you have covered most of the sensors. There is also an inlet air temp sensor.

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 28/2/12 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 28/2/12 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

where is it usually located on the silvertop ford-i presume on the injection setup, possibly before or after the throttle butterfly

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

[Edited on 28/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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big_wasa

posted on 28/2/12 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
Iat..

Pic in this thread

If using the eec ecu you will need the correct sensors.

For a turbo you would be looking at a Map sensor. Its a load sensor, most fords use the Maf.

The Gm sesors are popular with megasquirt where you can scale the sensors in the software.

Find a good scrapi. My local is very good on this stuff as I dont think any one elts buys it.

If I can find a car with the key(s) (rdif chip) then I can get ALL the bits to run the car for beer money. But they dont come in often with the keys.

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paulf

posted on 28/2/12 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
The ford sensors are very different to most other makers sensors.The ford one is 27k ohms at 20c but most Bosch etc sensors are about 2.5 k ohms at 20 c so if using a ford ecu it will have to be a ford sensor or it will run rich all the while as the air temp sensor has the most effect on the mixture.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by verybudgetzetec
is the air inlet temp the one that alot of aftermarket ecu wiring folks use for turbo application

where is it usually located on the silvertop ford-i presume on the injection setup, possibly before or after the throttle butterfly

saab have an inlet temp senser that seems a univeral setup that works with lots of oe manufacturer & aftermarket ecu's so i could possibly use one of those if i cant put my hand to a ford sensor

cheers so far big wasa

[Edited on 28/2/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 28/2/12 at 10:50 PM Reply With Quote
forgot to ask there is a triangular type thing on the side of the block i think its a crankcase breather type thing what do i do with it, i have got the bolts out & its a gole about 2" diameter behind it

cheers

big wasa i may be interested in that offer drop me a u2u to clue me up about it all, really appreciated wasa thumbs up!

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ChrisL

posted on 29/2/12 at 11:24 AM Reply With Quote
stick a breather pipe into it. On mine (also doing a BT install) the pipe just routes to the ground. I believe that you can attach it to a breather bottle....
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big_wasa

posted on 29/2/12 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
yep breather.

Blank it of, it will breath fine through the head.

I make a plate, the turbo boys use a core plug.

If you pipe it up to a catch tank as it comes from the mondeo it will do nothing any way. There is a valve that only opens under vacuume . There will be no vacume if you have ditched the the egr.

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 4/3/12 at 02:05 PM Reply With Quote
hi guys now i have a SILVERTOP zetec, do i need an 1.8 silvertop flywheel or will a blactop 1.8 flywheel be ok?

cheers all

going to get busy making a breather tomorrow & make a start with some cornflake box's to make a water rail!



oh before blummin forget, is it the cvh/doch starter motor i need????????

cheers again all super appreciated

[Edited on 4/3/12 by verybudgetzetec]

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verybudgetzetec

posted on 10/3/12 at 11:59 PM Reply With Quote
silvertop 2.0 project......

I'M BACK AT IT AGAIN-WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU MAY ASK-I MEAN CHANGING MY MIND AGAIN!!!!!!

heres where i'm at now, bike carbs are going to be sold, fuel injection idea is going to have to be put on hold until i understand all that caper a little more so..........


i have managed to get a escort waterpump from a local banger racer so thats my alternator/waterpump issues sorted apart from the correct belt

exhaust for a tempory measure is a mondeo cast manifold with a ford couger downpipe which i will chop about & weld so its in a noce position, at a later date it'll be a tubular exhast setup as they are lighter & will release more mambo!

spart initially is eiter going to be a ford ecs pack, not 100% correct but it'll start & run the 2ltr lump & be reliable

fueling is now going to be somthing i'm a bit more familier with, mr kind banger racer went into his box of bits & hoaxed a very very nice mild steel tubular intake manifold so i can fit either a single weber dgav or dgas of which i have both stashed in my garage, both may need a rebuild but a rebuild kit is cheap!!!




so bits i need to get a to make this puppy run are a silvertop 1.8 flywheel ANYONE GOT ONE PLZ PM ME i cant find one locally

water rail which i am making so thats SEMI sorted

the right starter motor the one that does'nt require a spacer would be preferable

so once i have the above bits i need i'll get it all mounted to this frame i have aquired & see if i can make it all run, it'll allow mw to tune the carb a bit too or rejet it as needed/required
hopefully my cheapo engine will be a decent one-if so then it'll get all cleaned up painted & looking a bit prissy! ready to install

gettin there! slowly, but making steady progress

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garyb12133@googlemail.com

posted on 16/10/13 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
Rs2000 bellhousing

Hi every one may I ask why do you use the rs2000 belling housing with the zetec engine is this the only housing that will mate with the zetec
Engine ?? Is it smaller in size ???

Many thanks
Gary

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tims31

posted on 17/10/13 at 06:40 AM Reply With Quote
Hey Gary,

Not at all, I have the bellhousing from a 1.8CVH engine to a Type 9 Gearbox fitted to mine (Blacktop), matches up just fine. Also can use the starter from the CVH just bu hacking a bit off of the Ali sump.





Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/

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