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Author: Subject: T89 Designs - Project SSL Build Diary
bart

posted on 2/12/14 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
I could be wrong and prob am , but I thought the axel line is ctr of the wheels side to side .

if im correct the feet must not be in front of this . it locks like your cad is fsea type with feet over this line

I stand to be corrected and will be !





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 2/12/14 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
You are correct that the line between the front wheel centre is the sale line, this is inline with the very front of the chassis





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bart

posted on 2/12/14 at 10:38 PM Reply With Quote
will be interesting to see your suspension design.
if your chassis does not extend forward of the wheel ctr line how do you deal with the stresses of the front a arms .
will watch with anticipation , as opposed to constipation ! lol





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bart

posted on 3/12/14 at 11:12 AM Reply With Quote
length width ratio

further thoughts
the design you are proposing is very short compared to the axel ctr distance , I don't wish to sound contra sending but have you given any thought to straight line stability , Square designs tend to swap ends alarmingly easily . all the books and good handling cars tend to be approx. 1.5 ish to 1.7 . now ready ! everybody shout !
just relating some of the design thought process that I went through.






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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 3/12/14 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bart
further thoughts
the design you are proposing is very short compared to the axel ctr distance , I don't wish to sound contra sending but have you given any thought to straight line stability , Square designs tend to swap ends alarmingly easily . all the books and good handling cars tend to be approx. 1.5 ish to 1.7 . now ready ! everybody shout !
just relating some of the design thought process that I went through.



The wheels in the CAD model are just for ride height checking to get it down to 40mm min' ride height with the tyre sizes I want to use and are not on the correct track width. When I have done my chassis feedback work I will start in the suspension and running gear in earnest.





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 10/12/14 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
Quick non-progress update.

Have decided to build a 600cc class car as I think its fits my plan a bit better. The general consensus from the sprint/hillclimb internet users seems to be that there might be a gap for an entry level 600cc machine in the market and a few other people seem to be building cars to refill the class as well.

I will go with a CBR600 F2/F3/F4 engine as these are readily available for <£500 as complete bikes and seem to be simple, robust and reasonably quick.

As for other bits I'm thinking of using Westfield rear uprights (inspired by Barts build) as they will fit my megablade driveline and are readily available, the only problem is the £500 price tag. Also I think they look like 70's F1 upright which is just a bit cool.

Barts Rear with Westy Uprights:
Description
Description


60's Ferrari F1 Upright
http://atspeedimages.com/image.php/3e0a0100-f15a-11dc-d9a9-0019e3f8e432/branded/1967_ferrari_312_f1_right_rear_suspension.jpg

Steering Rack and pedal box I think will actually be Autograss type units from DRD Racing, they make really nice stuff and the prices are very good.

Link to DRD parts:

http://www.shop.drdracingproducts.com/Chassis-parts_c2.htm

Anyway, hopefully will get some more build done soon and will get hold of a CBR600

All this does leave a nice 893cc Fireblade engine up for sale if anyone is interested.





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tadltd

posted on 11/12/14 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
Bike-engine short prop' to diff... (circa' 2004)

(ignore the crappy silencer, this was to get through a noise test)

undies-03
undies-03
undies-01
undies-01


[Edited on 11/12/14 by tadltd]





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 22/12/14 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tadltd
Bike-engine short prop' to diff... (circa' 2004)

(ignore the crappy silencer, this was to get through a noise test)

undies-03
undies-03
undies-01
undies-01


[Edited on 11/12/14 by tadltd]


Cheers for the pics, always good to see what's been done.





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 22/12/14 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
Just picked up a decent looking CBR600 '99 model year for £630 to act as the main donor. As well as the engine, electrics and clocks I'm hoping the front brakes will provide the rear brakes for the car.

The steering rack and parts as well as the pedal box are now ordered from DRD Racing.

Hopefully the parts will get added over the Xmas hols so I'll have some proper updates.





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 1/1/15 at 08:58 PM Reply With Quote
Managed to grab a few moments over the holidays to trial fit the DRD bits (Pedal Box and Steering Rack). Both are really nice items.

I've cut and narrowed the pedal box and it fits perfectly into the front 'box' of the car
Description
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The DRD steering rack is a lovely little item, tiny, lightweight and 1 turn LTL, the small size means I can eliminate bump steer as well.
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Tomorrow is a major work day as Santa is bringing me this:
Description
Description

The aim ios to strip the engine, brakes and electric tomorrow and get the rest sold ASAP to clear some space.





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bart

posted on 16/2/15 at 01:45 AM Reply With Quote
Owt hapnin lad.





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 16/2/15 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bart
Owt hapnin lad.


Been concentrating on getting my Sprint Car ready for the season so not actually done any labouring on SSL. What I have been doing is collecting together all of the parts I need. Got nearly all of the major components that will drive chassis and suspension design now. Hopefully it will all get going again in late March.





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 5/4/15 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
Have finally managed to get some time in on the design work for this car, front suspension is now pretty much complete as is the braking system:

Description
Description

Description
Description

Description
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Chassis needs updating for the coilover mounts and the steering rack model is missing but the front I'm happy with, now onto the rear end.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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JoelP

posted on 6/4/15 at 08:37 AM Reply With Quote
I once designed a car with the front bones in that style. I concluded it could limit steering lock - but I'm guessing that for track use only you don't really need that much lock. Looks good anyway.






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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 7/4/15 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
I once designed a car with the front bones in that style. I concluded it could limit steering lock - but I'm guessing that for track use only you don't really need that much lock. Looks good anyway.


Worth a quick sanity check:

Description
Description


with ET0 wheels I have 68mm of clearance to the wishbone so could run much more inset wheels and still be fine.

The limiting factor on my Seven is the cycle wing bracket and this car wont have them so will be fine.





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fregis

posted on 10/4/15 at 06:42 PM Reply With Quote
if you move steering rack closer, you will gain more angle for inner wheel. wheel angle very depend from steering rod angle





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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 10/4/15 at 08:50 PM Reply With Quote
The Ackerman is all sorted, those wheel angles in the pic are unrelated to steering geometry, the wheels have both been rotated 45° to check for clashes.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 24/4/15 at 06:53 AM Reply With Quote
Making good progress on the design work now, rear end and driveline are pretty much done. Controls are currently WIP with positioning needing to be set now that I can build a mock-up to see how big it is, this info can then be fed back into the design. At 5'11" and 'fat' a car that fits me should be enough for 95% of potential customers.

A reasonably big change is that I have decided to go for two pedals and a hand clutch. Reasoning being that the clutch is only used on launch and for down shifts and many people doing sprints/hillclimbs seriously will fit a flatshifter so the lever will only be there for emergencies anyway.

Current ISO view with a resonable amount of population in the CAD model:
Description
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Plan view of the rear driveline, there is still room to shift the engine further to the right, with considered placement of batttery, ccoling and fuel weight distribution will be 50/50 LR
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Rear Suspension, geo gives a mild camber increase in bump and roll with a nice damper installation ratio and rising rate.
Description
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Side View, the engine model doesn't have the planned AB Performance flat sump so wont stick out of the bottom in the final version.
Description
Description






Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 5/5/15 at 04:30 PM Reply With Quote
More progress on the CAD side and in real life. The fuel tank is now complete and on order from OBP and I picked up a Formula Renault front wing for it. Both have which have now been added into the design.

Although I have added the FR front wing a a F3 rear wing I'm not actually going to specify the wings for the car and instead include front and rear mounting points that are universal enough for people to be able to go and buy whatever than can find second hand. Reason being that new wings are incredibly expensive and I feel that the budget nature of the build will lend itself to resourceful builders going out and finding used single seater wings on the 2nd hand market.

A few pics of the current car, now giving an idea of what it will look like, obviously the nose will change to mate to the wing:

Description
Description

Description
Description

Description
Description






Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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ceebmoj

posted on 5/5/15 at 10:28 PM Reply With Quote
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.
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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 6/5/15 at 07:20 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.


I did have a think about it but its not an eventuality worth designing for, IF someone has a front crash and IF it doesn't do any other damage and IF you have a replacement nose box and IF you have a spare front wing it would save a day of sprinting but thats a long list of IF's to be carrying the extra complication and weight of a bolt on part.

Instead I'm making the nose simply a tubular hanger for the wing, if it gets bent the sort of 'home build' target market who I would hope has made/bought the car would simply cut off the bent bit and weld in new tubes. Its also one of the benefits of keeping the front of the chassis so short, less likely to damage more critical components in a frontal impact.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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JimSpencer

posted on 6/5/15 at 08:27 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.


I did have a think about it but its not an eventuality worth designing for, IF someone has a front crash and IF it doesn't do any other damage and IF you have a replacement nose box and IF you have a spare front wing it would save a day of sprinting but thats a long list of IF's to be carrying the extra complication and weight of a bolt on part.

Instead I'm making the nose simply a tubular hanger for the wing, if it gets bent the sort of 'home build' target market who I would hope has made/bought the car would simply cut off the bent bit and weld in new tubes. Its also one of the benefits of keeping the front of the chassis so short, less likely to damage more critical components in a frontal impact.


Hi

I think you'd be much better off making that bit bolt on - having done a nose box at a meeting and changed it c/w the front wings.. just like lots of other folk - that's a standard design feature I'd be looking for.
Plus - design it right and it'll go some way to save the chassis.
Or
Make the nose cone with front wing the support and the structure itself?

Plus I'd forget F3 / FR wings - too small for sprints and hills, you'll need larger - if you go to the right place they're not too expensive either. (can we recommend suppliers on here?)

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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 6/5/15 at 08:58 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
quote:
Originally posted by Doctor Derek Doctors
quote:
Originally posted by ceebmoj
Have you considered making the front frame bolt on? I ask because if you have a front impact it would make it easer to change the sacrificial component.


I did have a think about it but its not an eventuality worth designing for, IF someone has a front crash and IF it doesn't do any other damage and IF you have a replacement nose box and IF you have a spare front wing it would save a day of sprinting but thats a long list of IF's to be carrying the extra complication and weight of a bolt on part.

Instead I'm making the nose simply a tubular hanger for the wing, if it gets bent the sort of 'home build' target market who I would hope has made/bought the car would simply cut off the bent bit and weld in new tubes. Its also one of the benefits of keeping the front of the chassis so short, less likely to damage more critical components in a frontal impact.


Hi

I think you'd be much better off making that bit bolt on - having done a nose box at a meeting and changed it c/w the front wings.. just like lots of other folk - that's a standard design feature I'd be looking for.
Plus - design it right and it'll go some way to save the chassis.
Or
Make the nose cone with front wing the support and the structure itself?

Plus I'd forget F3 / FR wings - too small for sprints and hills, you'll need larger - if you go to the right place they're not too expensive either. (can we recommend suppliers on here?)


While I appreciate the thoughts I dont think what you are saying fits the home build entry level philosiphy that I am designing/building for, which is currently an untapped market. If I was to speicify a wing and design a nose box specifically to fit then I am adding cost and removing adaptability, essentially it would just become an OMS Hornet which already exists and costs alot more money than I and many other home builders can afford.

Currently OMS list a Hornet for £13800 without Tyres, Engine and paint so probably around £17k all in. Whereas my aim is for someone to be able to build my car for £6k complete. No it wont be as fast as an OMS but it wont be in the same class and I think a £10k saving will allow more people to enter the single seater realms.

I decided to do this project because I cant afford a single seater of that type but I can build one and be resourceful and adaptable to work with what I can find. Many people on this website are far more adaptable and better improvisers than me as well.

I look at it like a Locost and a Caterham, a book Locost isn't as fast as a Caterham but its much cheaper and hundreds of people have built them, enjoy them, compete with them and improve them. If I could come up with "The Book Locost" of the single seater world I'd be a happy man, actually even if I was only 1% as successful as The Book locost I'd still be happy.

In terms of the wings the car is quite small and as you can see from the pictures the front wing at least is pretty big in comparison. Also I have managed to source a front and rear wing now for a total of £100 without much hassle, I dont think any supplier of new wings would be able to get anywhere near that although if you have any supplier names I'd be interested to hear so I can make some enquiries.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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JimSpencer

posted on 6/5/15 at 09:39 AM Reply With Quote
Hi

I built (though not the Tub) mine too - the one in the avatar

IMHO The most important bit is practicality:-
The car must be easy to work on.
Plus
It will need to fit in the trailer's - you normally see car's transported 'nose less, especially as with the modern design of front wing is a good way in-front on the front axle line.

So if it's a fixed structure you'll need something to bolt onto it and then extend forward so with it and the wing removed there's not too much in front of the front tyres?
Perhaps a sub frame that bolts to the wing and then the chassis frame itself?

Re Damage

I've made 3 nose box's too - it's very little more work to make that piece bolt on.
(The first alloy one got bent in a bump, the second one is still ok, but have now changed design to go to the dropped nose full width front wing.)
It means it's a quick fix, if not at then at least between events, they get damaged very easily, especially on the hills.
I, like a number of competitors, would normally carry a spare front wing - I've even seen them stood on - certainly the end plates are best thought of a 'wear and tear' part.. Lol
But it's your design and hence your call

Cost

My new - carbon - front wing, I purchased new in component form (two lengths of wing profile and a large piece of carbon sheet) and then assembled to my spec, it's max width at 1.4m, dual plane and fully adjustable - cost was £350..
Rear wing is the same.

HTH

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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 6/5/15 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Hi

I built (though not the Tub) mine too - the one in the avatar

IMHO The most important bit is practicality:-
The car must be easy to work on.
Plus
It will need to fit in the trailer's - you normally see car's transported 'nose less, especially as with the modern design of front wing is a good way in-front on the front axle line.

So if it's a fixed structure you'll need something to bolt onto it and then extend forward so with it and the wing removed there's not too much in front of the front tyres?
Perhaps a sub frame that bolts to the wing and then the chassis frame itself?

Re Damage

I've made 3 nose box's too - it's very little more work to make that piece bolt on.
(The first alloy one got bent in a bump, the second one is still ok, but have now changed design to go to the dropped nose full width front wing.)
It means it's a quick fix, if not at then at least between events, they get damaged very easily, especially on the hills.
I, like a number of competitors, would normally carry a spare front wing - I've even seen them stood on - certainly the end plates are best thought of a 'wear and tear' part.. Lol
But it's your design and hence your call

Cost

My new - carbon - front wing, I purchased new in component form (two lengths of wing profile and a large piece of carbon sheet) and then assembled to my spec, it's max width at 1.4m, dual plane and fully adjustable - cost was £350..
Rear wing is the same.

HTH


A folded ally nose box is an interesting idea, might knock something up later to see how it looks. I also hadn't really considered trailer loading but the nose on SSL will be quite high so that should be fine, the wing would need to be removed.

I think we're still quite far apart on what we think of as 'budget' for me £100 for a pair of wings is good but £350 each plus a spare is over £1000 which would be near 20% of the total budget.

Universal mounts are the best way to go, it will allow people to buy cheap used wings for £100 and fit them and then later upgrade without major changes to a £350 wing to imporove performance but if I specify a £350 wing mount it forces people to spend that much straight away.

Also I'm looking at a market for local club sprints which only cost ~£110 to enter so carrying a a spare £350 wing would soak up the cost of 3 events.

It really has to be entry level, lots of people I have talked to in person lament the downfall of the 600cc class and a cheap way to enter single seater motorsport.

I'll try and post some pics of the nose box later.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



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