Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:39 PM |
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Venting my anger.....
When i vent my anger into my loud pedal, my engine gets very hot and and i need a vent at back of bonnet too let off some steam, can some one think
off a good shape? here is the bonnet, i cant photoshop for the life of me, was going to put a long vent at back off bonnet but ive got 2 humps
there...
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:40 PM |
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Oh and before you ask, ive opened up the vent at the front so the cold air rushes over the top of engine.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:46 PM |
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carbonmods NACA duct on backwards?
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bi22le
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:48 PM |
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I think there are loads of options on shape, finish and position.
It think its really up to you and what look you like.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:48 PM |
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Why not solve the problem of overheating?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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coozer
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:50 PM |
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Kris, is your engine plumbing correct? or, is the same as when it last burned you?
I suspect you haven't corrected the bypass pipe yet?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Peteff
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:54 PM |
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A couple of side vents would do the job efficiently rather than one on top. The bonnet scoop is more of an ornament than anything, most of the air
under your bonnet is coming in through the radiator grille and going out under the floor or down the transmission tunnel.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 07:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Kris, is your engine plumbing correct? or, is the same as when it last burned you?
I suspect you haven't corrected the bypass pipe yet?
As you can see, ive changed all the plumbing, blocked off the bypass, removed the stat, added in a pipe for overflow, ran waterpump other way(correct
way)
Its not very hot, but it climbs a little sitting in traffic the heat has no where too go - normal running 95-105, traffic 100-115
Something like this......
but in silver mesh
[Edited on 26/3/11 by Krismc]
[Edited on 26/3/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:04 PM |
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I'd suggest side ones too, another top one would just mean the air would pass over the top where if you put the exit vents low on the sides it
has to move that way.
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Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:07 PM |
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Surely, plenty of air coming in via rad would force enough air up over, dont want to weaken bonnet too much, althought i could just add a 50mm round
hole too either side.
[Edited on 26/3/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Macbeast
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:08 PM |
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I would guess that vent on the top of the bonnet is too small to do anything except make a whistling noise 
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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coozer
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:27 PM |
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You need to plumb the bypass into the bottom hose, away from the headtank, put the stat back in with a 5mm hole drilled in it.
Get shot of the raceline (they are rubbish!) and put the oem themo bit back on.
And, where is the bleeding pipes?? You have it plumbed up wrong mate!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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SPYDER
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:34 PM |
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Is the radiator fully ducted inside the nosecone?
ie. does all the air that goes into the nose have to go through the rad?
A duct in the top of the nosecone might let more heat out than a bonnet duct.
Is the rise in temp being kept in check by the fan or is it actually getting near to boiling over?
Have you considered wrapping the exhaust to reduce the underbonnet temp?
Geoff
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Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 08:42 PM |
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Ive also been told not too use the side connection on the raceline waterail, due too the temp differance.
you will have to Show me a diagram off what you mean
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 09:04 PM |
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...here is how its plumbed.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Humbug
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 10:20 PM |
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I've got vents at the rear of the sides of the bonnet as well as a scoop/inlet vent similar to yours (needed to clear the engine) and have no
problem with engine temp. Having vents in the sides, rather than on top of the bonnet, has the added advantage of not spraying you in the face with
boiling coolant if a hose comes off (guess how I found out?)
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paulf
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 10:27 PM |
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Refit the original thermo housing and add a bleed pipe from air bleed on housing to the header tank, also take a hose from the heater outlet on
exhaust side of housing and connect to the water pump near the connection with the bottom hose where you have one from the header tank at present.
Mine is plumbed like this and always runs at a nice steady 85 to 90 deg , I have also heard lots of people have problems with the raceline set up.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
...here is how its plumbed.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 11:53 PM |
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Some pics here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?fid=4&tid=115155
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Humbug
I've got vents at the rear of the sides of the bonnet as well as a scoop/inlet vent similar to yours (needed to clear the engine) and have no
problem with engine temp. Having vents in the sides, rather than on top of the bonnet, has the added advantage of not spraying you in the face with
boiling coolant if a hose comes off (guess how I found out?)
the only reason ive got a front scoop is the engine height, had to cut a letter box to make it fit, yea ill try a side exit vent first, dont want to
spoil the look of the car and the battery and ecu is up there, so rain and washing the car would funnel the water on all the electrics.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Some pics here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?fid=4&tid=115155
Like the vortx ones, except i might do them alternative sizes, ill quickly mock up a pic if anyone can give opinions.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:31 AM |
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I like these.......................
so how about thism but only on my exhaust side for now, see if the heat is lower........................
or even
[Edited on 27/3/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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neilj37
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 10:12 AM |
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Kris,
Check out the pics of my old MNR in my photo archive. Had a similar problem to you but nose vent helped to reduce the temperatures. The radiator fan
was also on a manual switch so when you were sitting in traffic you could put the fan on to keep temps down.
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scutter
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 10:40 AM |
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I would suggest side vents rather than top. If/when the rad hose pops off, you won't get how anti-freeze all over your helmet Guess how i
found out.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 03:51 PM |
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Here is what i managed today, saying as my dremel isnt playing ive had too do it the old school way, while sitting on front lawn with all passers by
watching. well it was such a nice day.
I decided too go with slots, so i drilled 4 holes, cut between them and filed and sanded by hand until i achieved a decent result, i dont have much
silaflex so i just did the exhaust side for now, looks alright i think.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Fred W B
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 04:35 PM |
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Nice work!
What would look really cool is if you cut two pieces of 3 mm hardboard, one the same shape as the cut outs but just a bit smaller, and the other with
the same shape/size hole as the bonnet holes cut into it. Then put your piece of (ally, I presume) mesh between them on a firm surface and
press/hammer the smaller piece down until it is flush with the other, which will give you a joggled edge on the mesh, and let the mesh sit flush with
the outside face of the bonnet.
You might have to experiment a bit with the clearances between the wood bits to get a nice result.
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 27/3/11 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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