Hello, my name is Mats and I live in Sweden. I have started a build together with my 13 year old son.
The build will be based on the Haynes chassis but with a different type of bodywork.
Power train will be a five cylinder from a 1994 Volvo 850 GLT coupled to an M90 gearbox from a Volvo 960, sierra rear diff and front and rear
suspension. About a month ago I bought the donor Volvo and stripped the engine and electrical harness from it.
Last week I got all the 25x25x2 tubing and the frame build started friday the 26th of April
This is what we are trying to recreate but with a body in unpainted aluminium.
Bottom frame layed out.
Got to borrow a nice cutter from work that works awsome, so easy to make nice cuts.
Thanks.
No the roll bar is for the little white car that shows its butt in one of the pictures. Creating the body will be the big challenge in this build.
Ah yes the 360, a friend of mine has had a few as winter beaters, dual alternators and 7 Bosch Big knick floodlights in the front. You could see him
coming for miles...
---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
Got some parts lasercut, all the steel is Domex 355. Its a nice job perk to have access too.
Bent lower A-arm plates and all A-arm and shock mounts.
CP10 plates in place, took a bit of grinding to make them fit.
Sometimes even an amateur like me manage to put out some not too ugly looking welds.
Starting to run low on gas again, second bottle and at €100 per refill I will have to raise the budget on welding supplies.
CP3/4 started here and was tacked in place yesterday.
CP3/4 Rear framework started, Now you can see a bit of a difference from a normal Haynes build since I will have the rear panel sloping backwards
instead of forwards.
Moved the frame to my work with a bit more space and nicer equipment than I can afford at home.
Started to fully weld the frame yesterday, about 8-9 hours done so far and there's a fair bit left to do.
The last week has been mostly about getting the A-arm brackets into place on the frame. The book fixtures work well to get them into place.
Today I took advantage of the nice summer weather to vacate the 914 from the garage and get the frame down on the floor so I could flip it
over and start geting the brackets welded all around.
A few weld pictures too, no pretty but solid enough and improving bit by bit.
Here's a bit of an update of whats been going on (or not) during the last months.
Engine and diff in place just to test things out.
Rear uprights was tacked up and fully welded.
All the A-arms has been built and welded up.
Make the noise !
Came across a set of 4x108 OZ wheels and tires for ok money and bought those.
Something that took along time was to get the tubes for the upper front A-arms bent. When you pay with cakes and cookies you end up at the end of the
work line...
But things are finally starting to move again in the last week or so.
Next in line is putting the chassis down on the wheels and figure out my rideheight and then its on to making the engine and gearbox mounts.
A bit of an update here, the build has continued and passed the first "build inspection" that is mandatory here in Sweden.
I got a few remarks which I have fixed so now I can continue to finish the car.
Stainless fuel tank tacked up.
New propshaft built from the stock Volvo 960 parts.
One of the inspection remarks was that the angle of the rear shocks was to flat at 45 degrees, they wanted minimum 60 degrees from the horisontal
plane so that took a bit of fixing. Had to raise and move the upper mounts outwards.
First drafts of the body shape !
Started making the tunnel sheet metal parts.
Soon time to take the engine out and get some paint on the lower parts of the frame and put the floor pans on !
Nice build
If it's not to late, I would make the smaller tunnel back panel removable, it makes life a lot easier to get to the rear prop
fixings Description
quote:Originally posted by 40inches
Nice build
If it's not to late, I would make the smaller tunnel back panel removable, it makes life a lot easier to get to the rear prop
fixings Description
Yes the rear tunnel top cover will be removeable to get access to the handbrake and rear prop shaft bolts.
quote:Originally posted by 40inches
Nice build
If it's not to late, I would make the smaller tunnel back panel removable, it makes life a lot easier to get to the rear prop
fixings Description
Yes the rear tunnel top cover will be removeable to get access to the handbrake and rear prop shaft bolts.
I would try that before you commit to fixing the side panels. I had to remove the prop shaft, working from above was a PITA,
I cut out the rear side panel with a Dremel.
