John Bonnett
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| posted on 18/4/21 at 07:25 PM |
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I was hoping to do a trial fit of the body back on the chassis today but was thwarted by the recently fitted rear firewall and flooring. When fitting
it I hadn't taken into account the the part of the chassis that angles upwards to clear the axle. These sections prevented the body from going
down onto the chassis so I'll need to do a bit of work to get over this problem. It should be fairly simple just cutting out and boxing in.
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 03:57 PM |
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Using a combination of tools including an air saw and angle grinder I managed to remove sufficient material from the firewall and floor to allow the
body to drop down onto the chassis. NS4 even 18 gauge is surprisingly tough to cut. But I managed it without it looking too much like a knife and fork
job.
It came as a huge relief when I lowered the body onto its mountings and it fitted just as it did before everything was fully welded. Side to side
it's half a hole out but it will be coming off almost immediately so that the chassis can be stripped down and painted. But while it is in place
I can decide how I'm going to seal off the engine bay from the cabin. One example of the law of unforeseen consequences I discovered when I
tried to fit the bolt for the starter motor. But once the body is off it will be a simple matter to contour the upright to give clearance for the bolt
head. Other than that, no problems which is great news.
This is the first time that I've seen the car on its wheels at more or less ride height with the wire form buck in place. I probably
shouldn't say this but I love the shape and the motor car that is evolving and am finding the project more and more exciting as it
progresses.
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starterman
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 07:56 PM |
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John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 08:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 08:47 PM |
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A socket head bolt?
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 19/4/21 at 08:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
A socket head bolt?
I don't think even a length of studding will go in because the upright pushes it across that bit too far but as I mentioned to Mike modding the
upright isn't a problem and once the cut out is made I'll cap it with a closing piece so that it will look like it's meant to be.
Well that's the hope anyway!
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Deckman001
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 02:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Just a thought John, could the starter flange hole be enlarged to allow a bolt be put in from the other side so that just a nyloc nut could be put at
the end, at the other side of the housing ?
Jason
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Just a thought John, could the starter flange hole be enlarged to allow a bolt be put in from the other side so that just a nyloc nut could be put at
the end, at the other side of the housing ?
Jason
Good thought Jason, thank you. Yes that could be done but I had another thought. A length of high tensile M12 studding could be threaded into and
locktited on the starter and a nut and washer fitted on the back. So we have quite a few possibilities to choose from thanks to the suggestions that
have come in.
Tomorrow, I'm hoping to lift the body off the chassis, strip the chassis down and get some paint on it and once painted it can be refitted to
the body for good I hope. I have sourced some closed cell rubber foam which does not absorb water to go between the chassis and body. The firm that
supplied it cut it to size which is useful.
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starterman
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 06:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Currently I'm modifying my rear uprights so that I can finish fitting the LSD and once that is done then I will be over. Could you let me have
the part number from your starter please?
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 07:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by starterman
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Currently I'm modifying my rear uprights so that I can finish fitting the LSD and once that is done then I will be over. Could you let me have
the part number from your starter please?
I'm not sure how I can find the part number. The starter is for a MK1 1.6 Focus 2004 and looks similar to this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-MK1-MK2-MK3-1998-2018-1-4-1-6-PETROL-BRAND-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR/142457133839
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 07:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Currently I'm modifying my rear uprights so that I can finish fitting the LSD and once that is done then I will be over. Could you let me have
the part number from your starter please?
I'm not sure how I can find the part number. The starter is for a MK1 1.6 Focus 2004 and looks similar to this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-MK1-MK2-MK3-1998-2018-1-4-1-6-PETROL-BRAND-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR/142457133839
Look forward to seeing you and best of luck with the work on the car.
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starterman
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Currently I'm modifying my rear uprights so that I can finish fitting the LSD and once that is done then I will be over. Could you let me have
the part number from your starter please?
I'm not sure how I can find the part number. The starter is for a MK1 1.6 Focus 2004 and looks similar to this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-MK1-MK2-MK3-1998-2018-1-4-1-6-PETROL-BRAND-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR/142457133839
Look forward to seeing you and best of luck with the work on the car.
Don't cut out the upright just yet, I might have an idea. I'll be in touch.......
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 20/4/21 at 08:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by starterman
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
quote:
Originally posted by starterman
John, for the starter bolt why not use a normal bolt and a flat washer?
I don't think even the shank will go in, the upright is just masking the edge of the hole and it is a very long bolt. The starter flange is
threaded so the bolt does have to go in from the bell housing side. Cutting a bit out of the square tube won't be a problem with the engine out
of the way and it then enables the standard bolt fixing to be retained.
If you fancy giving the car a bit of an airing please do pop over, I'd love to see it and of course the power bulge is here waiting for you.
Currently I'm modifying my rear uprights so that I can finish fitting the LSD and once that is done then I will be over. Could you let me have
the part number from your starter please?
I'm not sure how I can find the part number. The starter is for a MK1 1.6 Focus 2004 and looks similar to this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-MK1-MK2-MK3-1998-2018-1-4-1-6-PETROL-BRAND-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR/142457133839
Look forward to seeing you and best of luck with the work on the car.
Don't cut out the upright just yet, I might have an idea. I'll be in touch.......
I'm liking the sound of that 
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 10:19 AM |
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Thread Moved here
https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/218220/reliant-kitten-rebodied
I've decided to continue writing up my project build on RetroRides partly because of the reliability of the site and the ease of posting photos.
Please understand that I'm not jumping ship and will remain part of the Locost community which I value very highly.
Thank you all for your support and encouragement along the way and I hope this will continue as before.
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 03:02 PM |
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Hi John,
could I recommend that you put a post in your new 'home' linking back to this thread, so people can get even more background
all the best
G
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 03:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
Hi John,
could I recommend that you put a post in your new 'home' linking back to this thread, so people can get even more background
all the best
G
Do you think they are that bored? ha ha!. Yes great suggestion, thank you I'll certainly do that and it will perhaps lead people here who are
unaware of what a great community this is.
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pmc_3
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 03:16 PM |
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It might be worth just putting a quick post on here to say when there is an update on the Retrorides thread. I've been following this one but
don't check that forum all that often.
[Edited on 30/4/21 by pmc_3]
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 03:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pmc_3
It might be worth just putting a quick post on here to say when there is an update on the Retrorides thread. I've been following this one but
don't check that forum all that often.
[Edited on 30/4/21 by pmc_3]
It might be easier if you bookmark the RR thread and then you should be updated automatically. Just a suggestion.
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steve m
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 07:46 PM |
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Good thought Jason, thank you. Yes that could be done but I had another thought. A length of high tensile M12 studding could be threaded into and
locktited on the starter and a nut and washer fitted on the back. So we have quite a few possibilities to choose from thanks to the suggestions that
have come in.
Tomorrow, I'm hoping to lift the body off the chassis, strip the chassis down and get some paint on it and once painted it can be refitted to
the body for good I hope. I have sourced some closed cell rubber foam which does not absorb water to go between the chassis and body. The firm that
supplied it cut it to size which is useful.
I was going to suggest exactly the above, with coming in from the other side, it also has the advantage of locating the starter, and holding it, for
when the other two? bolts are fitted, as even with my crossflow, with just two bolts, was a pita trying to line them up
Lastly John, is your build on line elsewere as well ? as ive decieded that next time this site falls over, i will leave, but would like to keep tabs
of what your building
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 30/4/21 at 08:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by steve m
Good thought Jason, thank you. Yes that could be done but I had another thought. A length of high tensile M12 studding could be threaded into and
locktited on the starter and a nut and washer fitted on the back. So we have quite a few possibilities to choose from thanks to the suggestions that
have come in.
Tomorrow, I'm hoping to lift the body off the chassis, strip the chassis down and get some paint on it and once painted it can be refitted to
the body for good I hope. I have sourced some closed cell rubber foam which does not absorb water to go between the chassis and body. The firm that
supplied it cut it to size which is useful.
I was going to suggest exactly the above, with coming in from the other side, it also has the advantage of locating the starter, and holding it, for
when the other two? bolts are fitted, as even with my crossflow, with just two bolts, was a pita trying to line them up
Lastly John, is your build on line elsewere as well ? as ive decieded that next time this site falls over, i will leave, but would like to keep tabs
of what your building
That would be great Steve. I've just started writing it up on RetroRides and here's the link.
https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/218220/reliant-kitten-rebodied
I look forward to seeing you there.
Kind regards John
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jps
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 09:12 AM |
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John - just posting on here, as i've got so many forum logins i try to avoid collecting more.
The latest updates look fantastic - your thread is one of the things that really gives me a kick in the backside to get back in the garage -
especially your comment "as with so often happens, the anticipation was worse than the event." - as I am very much in the: measure once,
measure twice, measure thrice, etc camp!
Very interesting to see those renders from Horrido - and I for one think it looks better with the straight rear fin you've committed to!
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 14/5/21 at 09:46 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jps
John - just posting on here, as i've got so many forum logins i try to avoid collecting more.
The latest updates look fantastic - your thread is one of the things that really gives me a kick in the backside to get back in the garage -
especially your comment "as with so often happens, the anticipation was worse than the event." - as I am very much in the: measure once,
measure twice, measure thrice, etc camp!
Very interesting to see those renders from Horrido - and I for one think it looks better with the straight rear fin you've committed to!
I still receive email notifications so not a problem and thank you so much for your kind words. It is the encouragement that drives the project
forward so very much appreciated.
Etorre Bugatti here on this site and now Horrido on the RR site have been hugely influential on the body shape and I am indebted to both of them. The
rendered drawing has just blown me away and so close to my concept that it is uncanny. Whether I have the ability to panel it is something we'll
have to wait and see but now I now know what I am aiming for and I'll give it my best shot.
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 27/9/21 at 05:55 PM |
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Just a few photos showing progress on the project. All going well and the engine, a standard 1.6 Sigma from a scrap Focus made 135bhp on the dyno when
the DTA ecu and Jenvey DTH throttle bodies were set up.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 27/9/21 at 11:17 PM |
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Wow sure wish I had a tenth of your skill... The lines of the back are perfect 
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 28/9/21 at 08:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Wow sure wish I had a tenth of your skill... The lines of the back are perfect
Thank you for your kind words, very much appreciated.
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