first of all i like to say hi to everyone. right yestarday i brough a kev's mk and today the problem which as cause him so much hassle as started on me leaving me sat on the m42 waiting for a tow truck.so i was wondering if i could get a little help.

at the moment i only know what the recovery man found out which is between the chassis and all wires out the rectifer there is nothing. at the moment i know nearly nothing but am will to have ago and learn so your help would be much appreiated

cheers dean

also if anyone as a spare superdream rectifier i would like to buy it.

Yes got 2 spare cause just cant seem to blow my superdream beastie!!!£20 all i ask

dean i'm so sorry to hear that, it has honestly been fine with me, did you drive it with the lights on last night? i've never tried it at night. should be quick fix though, there was 12v and around 14 coming out of it when i fitted it! again so sorry to hear that, apart from that did you have fun driving it back yesterday? kev

so your collection of burnt out rectifiers your building is unrelated then?

Dean,

The engine and electrics on that car was done at MK. If you give them a call and ask for Steve, he was the guy that did it, and is some what of an expert on bike wiring. I'm sure he will point you in the right direction. Or send U2U to snoopy on this site he may be able to help.

Leigh.

I have a couple of Honda superdream spares too, like Ash I can't seem to break it since I put the Superdream one on mine.

There is also a wiring diagram here for the superdream recitifier http://fp.shortshouse.plus.com/images/Visio-Superdream%20rectifier%20wiring.pdf

HTH,
Rich.

bit harsh benji. that was from ages ago, before i 'rectified' it,no pun intended.

hi there thanks for your replies, i drove the car to wigan last night and with lights on and no less then 20-30 stalls at lights and so on there was no trace of a problem, but this morning it struggled to to start and 30 miles later at the first petrol stop i need to bump start it the (first of about 20 mostly un-aided aswell)now it wont rev properly or the light wont even come on.

shortie and ash3 can either of you accept payment via paypal to save time? otherwise i will have to take one from ash as he offered first

cheers dean

just thinking if the recovery man is right and there is no power acroos the chassis and any of the wires then where do i look next also what kind of volts should i see across what wires when (between chassis and wires) hope this makes sense.

cheers dean

sorry wasnt really suggesting you sold him the car knowing there was a serious fault, just ironic that your 'building' was a collection of burnt out rectifiers, no harm meant

u2u me will sort one out for you
no need for paypal just send me address
will send it straight off. Dont want to keep
you waitin.

May not be related, but just check the connection behind the red ignition switch. i had 1 or 2 probs with miss firing and starting but, it turned out to be a loose wire at the back of that switch.

when you say the back of the switch do you mean what you can see if you take the boonet ofwhere the red cable comes from the battery. i do not think this is the problem as when the rac man put the jump leads on the car started fine and ran stop on and when i moved it then ran fine, but i will go over that tomorrow.

cheers dean

cheers dean

no the battery is only a couple of months old, if you charge the battery it will be fine again, thats exactly what happened to me with the last one.

kev replace the battery with a new one but how will i go about check the battery.

charge it up then leave it for a time then check terminal voltage?

cheers dean

oops cheers for that kev.

when the batts charged it will show over 13 volts, the charge coming out of the rectifier will nedd to be around 13.8 volts to ensure a good charge, if it's showing around twelve it will just be holding it's own untill a large draw is taken from it which explains why it went before with all the lights on.

I was talking about the connection behind the dash on the red ignition on/off switch.

It seems to me that all these problems are due to fitting the wrong battery i.e. a car one rather than one the same as the original bike one. After starting the rectifier will fry if the battery voltage is low. How many people have had a problem with the correct size battery fitted? Cooling could be an issue but the major problem is the capacity of the battery IMHO.

Alot of people have had the same problem when using a bike battery, me included, just that the original blade rectifiers are sh*te, hence why they now use uprated ones.

hopefully a superdream rectifier is on it way to me, so who out there can tell me what a successful system would be ie. bulb wattages,battery size and any of the other possible varibles in the electrical system, someone must be running these car with out all this palavour?

cheers dean

OK SO I AM GETTING 12-13V AT EACH YELLOW WIRE AND 22-24V AT THE RED AND THE BLACK IS SHOWING 10-11V THIS IS BECAUSE THE BATTERY IS ONLY SUPPLYING THIS VOLTAGE I TAKE IT. SHOW THE ALT IS SUPPLYING 12V THE THE RECTIFIER AND THE RED IS SHOWING 22-24V, THE BLACK SHOW TERMINAL VOLTAGE AND THE EARTH IS .O2 OHMS WITH IGNITION OFF AND 9 ISH OHMS WITH IGNITION ON(COULD SOMEONE TELL ME WHY?)
DOES THIS MEAN THE RECTIFIER IS WORKING O.K, IF SO HOW DOES THE CHARGE GET FROM THE RECTIFIER TO THE BATTERY COULD THERE BE A PROBLEM THERE ?

CHEERS DEAN


[Edited on 7/11/05 by ockwell1980]

[Edited on 7/11/05 by ockwell1980]

Got to be honest mate 9 times out of 10 it's the rectifier. I would suggest leaving everything as is and fitting a superdream rectifier, remember to fit the extra wire into a 12v supply as per the diagram and hopefully this should sort it.

I am assuming that the rectifier is not already a superdream one of course, if it is then we need to look elsewhere maybe.

HTH,
Rich.

YES IT IS A SUPERDREAM ONE AND SEEM TO BE FINE.

CHEERS DEAN

FOLLOWING THAT I WOULD THINK THAT A POOR CONNECTION FROM RECTIFIER TO BATTERY IS THE PROBLEM. ALSO WHEN PUTTING THE PROBES ON THE RED AND WHITE OF THE RECTIFIER/FIREBLADE LOOM AND THE + OF THE BATTERY IT IS A OPEN CIRCUIT. IS THIS CORRECT? FINALLY COULD I NOT JUST CONNECT FROM THE RED/WHITE OF THE SUPERDREAM TO THE + OF THE BATTERY?

CHEERS DEAN

WHILE I HAVE PUT A TEMPORARY CABLE FROM THE SUPERDREAM'S RED/WHITE TO THE BATTERY'S + AND THE SUPERDREAM IS PUTTING OUT A STEADY 14V AND THE BATTERY IS READING 13.5V. LEFT RUNNING WITH FULL BEAM ON AND DID NOT STUTTER OR STRUGGLE SO HOPEFULLY THIS IS THE PROBLEM. IF SO CAN I LEAVE THE CABLE ON BETWEEN THE SUPERDREAM AND BATTERY OR DO I NEED TO FIND THE WHY THE CIRCUIT IS OPEN, EVEN THOUGH EVERY THING WORKS FINE?

CHEERS DEAN

[Edited on 7/11/05 by ockwell1980]

i would like to thank everyone who as helped me in tracking this little problem down. just one thing in the superdream wiring diagram on knocking about on this form it say the red/white should go to the starter relay, now i've no doubt this should go back direct to the +of the battery but on mine where do you think it goes because it def is connected to the red/white of the fireblade loom.

cheers dean

Red/White on the blade loom is the wire from the starter relay that gets a direct 12v feed from the battery.

Rich.