Lads,

I'm not trying to pull a sneaky For Sale in the wrong section, I'm genuinely trying to work out what I should realistically expect to get for my Locost. I'm contemplating selling it to fund another project/wedding in August...but not sure if its worth selling or not.








Its an almost entirely home built car, but not the usual MIG welded stuff; its been carefully brazed to the satisfaction of several Crossle fabricators (Who taught me when I was 13/14). I can provide samples of test joints for any skeptics.

It has Escort instruments, a standard 1.3Xflow mated to a Type 9 5spd, panelled locakable boot, T-45 aircraft spec roll bar, book 4link & panhard rod rear English axle, flyoff vertical handbrake and removable rear wheel carrier. I did a few mods to the "book" chassis to add extra triangulation and a neater lower tube at the rear (To remove kinked rear panel).

The car has never been used. I got sickened with the electrics, gave up, then got an auto electrician to do it for me. I haven't touched it since then. Its a brand new car. Ideal for someone to either SVA/IVA/Whatever it is now and enjoy it, or use it as a base to build something hotter.

I have removed the front callipers to use on another project and I am not 100% on the electrics and I never extensively tested it all. Before doing the electrical work I did start it and drive it round the yard (All of 20ft).

All it needs is a steering column shroud (Half made), front callipers (Fairly certain I have the original Cortina ones) and then a good check over and padding etc for the test.

So, its a brand new unregistered car that could either be tidied up, tested and driven or used as a base for something else.

Any genuine opinions on what its worth would be greatly appreciated.

The car does have sentimental value...but so does my financee only she wouldn't be as happy to live in a garage.

Thanks,

Willie

Unfortunatly the biggest value raiser is if it's registered or not.

If there's still work to do and bits missing/ not finshed I somehow doubt it'll be worth anywhere near your sentimental value wants to it be.

I've seen registered on the road locosts go for between 3 and 4k. I'm not sure brazed chassis, and nice bits like that will raise the resale value a lot.

Nice looking car btw, keep it and get it on the road!

[Edited on 26/1/10 by Ben_Copeland]

IVA it before you sell it. Makes alot of difference to the value. Id say 2000 as it is.

I hope I am wrong, but I thought a brazed chassis was not allowed for SVA!

Despite the fact that race car chassis are all brazed!

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Originally posted by designer
I hope I am wrong, but I thought a brazed chassis was not allowed for SVA!

Despite the fact that race car chassis are all brazed!

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Caterhams used to be brazed but they are mig'd these days.

if your selling it to raise funds for a wedding surely it has to be worth absolutely nothing, at best £10 in scrap metal

that's what you tell the soon to be wife anyway.

remember when your married you get everything car related either magically given to you from a mate in the car club or at half the usual price

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Originally posted by Ben_Copeland
I'm not sure brazed chassis, and nice bits like that will raise the resale value a lot.

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quote:

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3. The vehicle structure and all components including their attachment must be suitable and of adequate strength. (see note 2)

Note 2 This assessment includes the attachment of any component/assembly of any structure, the strength and suitability of materials used, (including pipes etc), all fastenings, (welding, brazing, bonding, rivets, nuts and bolts etc) are to be assessed for suitability, completeness and security.

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unregistered £ 2.5 k max-ish

Regiesterd £ 4 k max-ishh

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remember when your married you get everything car related either magically given to you from a mate in the car club or at half the usual price

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Don't do it! Looks like a nice build get it IVA'd and on the road when funds allow.. You will regret selling it, like others have said not worth much without being registered...

Best thing I ever did was register mine - because I can say "I built that "

Lads,

Thanks for all the replies and valuations.

Part of the reason I never put it on the road was because I managed to do a deal with a mate and bought his Caterham. I couldn't afford to run two.

The wife to be actually wants the Locost herself, but is eager for me to put the Caterham back together in time for the wedding (I pulled it to bits...because I'm a man). I could do with the cash to finish the rebuild and fund furniture, but I just don't have the time to register it pre-wedding.

As far as the brazing goes, it will pass the SVA/IVA so long as it meets the assessors pleasing. Arch chassis Caterhams go through year after year (Mine is an Arch chassis brazed one) so I don't expect there to be any drama at all.

I'll chat to her about it and have a good think. If I do decide to sell, I'll pull it out and get decent photos.

Thanks for the help...didn't want to go for it with an unrealistic price.

Willie

Honestly, if I was looking for a car to put on the road and had £2.5k I'd be very interested...

Then, I'd sell the big wheels, change the colour of the arches, paint the side panels... I really shouldn't be allowed to day-dream.

It looks a good 'un for someone based on distant photos.

Good luck!

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Originally posted by whitestu

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remember when your married you get everything car related either magically given to you from a mate in the car club or at half the usual price

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I thought that was just me!

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quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74

quote:

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3. The vehicle structure and all components including their attachment must be suitable and of adequate strength. (see note 2)

Note 2 This assessment includes the attachment of any component/assembly of any structure, the strength and suitability of materials used, (including pipes etc), all fastenings, (welding, brazing, bonding, rivets, nuts and bolts etc) are to be assessed for suitability, completeness and security.

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my take on that is that brazed chassis is ok.

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Brazing is used in racing because there is less chance of stress fractures at joints. Not used in production vehicles where cost is a constraint, as it takes skill to do right and is more costly in materials as well.

Edit: Usually called sif-bronze welding and is different from ordinary brazing.

[Edited on 26/1/10 by Confused but excited.]

why cant you braze repair patches for mot repairs

"Brazing" has two different types. There is true brazing like you used to see on old steel framed bikes, where the tubes met into sockets which were heated up and then bronze flowed in by capillary action...a bit like silver soldering.

Bronze welding, which I've been calling brazing is different, and has been used in aircraft and motorsport for years. Its like gas welding, only the parent metal doesn't become molten. The job is heated to almost red hot, then the bronze (Usually a bronze alloy, with silicone or nickel) is flowed in and build up, creating a really strong but non brittle joint. You can also create nice waves (Coining) like you'd see on TIG welded ali tanks etc.

To do it right you need a gas fluxer to flow the flux out the torch (Very easy to make your own). Otherwise you flux the rod and its a real pain to get it neat. As mentioned above, the job needs to be "silver" hot, the colour just before it starts going red. Get it red and it'll never take and will be a complete mess. On thin sheet its easy to overheat, and most mechanics do so little they don't have fluxers...so traditionally any "brazing" the MOT man saw was a complete disaster.

Hope that helps. I'm a big brazing/bronze welding fan, so always willing to waffle about it

Willie