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Things To check when buying a RAW Striker 4age
bi22le - 20/4/10 at 08:27 PM

Hi all,
I put a post up a while ago but as the time to buy is this weekend (Im so excited im bouncing off the walls) I thought I would repost. Also there is alot of activity on LCB at the mo compared to mid winter!

So, things to check?
Whats the expected Oil pressure of a 4age?
Weaknesses on 4age and Strikers (IRS 04 ish chassis)

Thanks,
Bizz
PS I cant WAIT to get the car and get out and about!!

tul214 - 20/4/10 at 08:51 PM

Check that the steering wheel is attached.

bi22le - 20/4/10 at 09:03 PM

and no steering wheel jokes!

Ah to late....

No MORE steering wheel jokes!



Thanks

[Edited on 20/4/10 by bi22le]

COREdevelopments - 20/4/10 at 09:28 PM

4age is a good engine choice, however does it have any sump mods as striker are very small. i have a locost chassis and had to modify my sump. I wrecked a set of bearings from oil surge so now run a accusump and everything is fine now. Is the engine still on injection or carbs?

Rob

bi22le - 20/4/10 at 09:39 PM

Cheers for the reply,
Stock sump but it does have Accusump. It has about average ground clearence and he has them horrid middle bus friendly humps near him. There are no scrapes on the sump so it should be fine.
Winged raised sump on the wich list though. Are they cast or ali?

rick q - 20/4/10 at 11:07 PM

Standard sump is pressed metal.

I've had a smallport and a 20V 4AGE both with the bottom of the standard sump replaced with a flat section at the point where the sides start to curve from the vertical sides. No problems, though most over here run the oil about 6-8mm above "full"

Great engine - difficult to kill. You should have about 180kPa at 900rpm and about 350kPa above about 3500 [hot]. More is good.

55ant - 21/4/10 at 05:58 AM

not very usefull but there was a raw striker at my last track day and must say they a very nice peice of kit, really smart and went like hell! all he mentioned was the sump.

bi22le - 21/4/10 at 05:37 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rick q
Standard sump is pressed metal.

I've had a smallport and a 20V 4AGE both with the bottom of the standard sump replaced with a flat section at the point where the sides start to curve from the vertical sides. No problems, though most over here run the oil about 6-8mm above "full"

Great engine - difficult to kill. You should have about 180kPa at 900rpm and about 350kPa above about 3500 [hot]. More is good.


Cheers for the info. Ill have to change the units to something useful!!

26PSI @900RPM
54PSI @>3500RPM

Thanks!

[Edited on 21/4/10 by bi22le]

COREdevelopments - 22/4/10 at 08:29 PM

My car has the sump the same as rick q mentions. This is how i killed mine so be carefull. Did last 2500 miles though but took a roundabout fairly quickly at really high rpm and ended the bearings there and then, luckily switched off engine as soon as i heard a nasty noise. Now the accusump keeps it all sweet.

Rob