I got home late on Friday with this in tow:




Obviously it is a wrecked MX5, more specifically it is the doner for my Locost.

I now have the plan for my chassis, suspension etc so will be cracking on.

Subject editted on request -ChrisW

[Edited on 1/4/2011 by ChrisW]

nice one, with damage like that it should have been a very reasonably priced purchase

It was - I needed a set of wheels and tyres for the wifes v-spec. I got this for not much more than the tyres alone would have cost, plus I've already fitted a few bits that were busted on hers and I don't need; plastics etc.

The motor runs smooth and all the transmission and running gear is intact, as a bonus this one is also a v-spec so has the tuned head.

Matt,

That engine must have been running upside down in the final moments of the crash, run the engine up and check the oil pressure, look for oil on the inside of the bonnet as well.

Its unlikely that any damage occurred, but best check now.

Hey Mark,

Yep I asked the seller about that - he killed the motor very quickly. I have already looked and the underside of the bonnet and engine bay is clean as a whistle. I asked him to start it up and it has no smoke and runs lovely the oil pressure is around the same mark as on the wifes motor.

Hoping to start the chassis build in the next couple of weeks.

[Edited on 25/4/10 by Airhead]

Have you got a welder yet?

Going to borrow Barrys I believe. Would really have like to have got a 180 amp one but I keep getting outbid. If my Pajero sells I might treat myself.

Forgot - I took this photo earlier too:




[Edited on 25/4/10 by Airhead]

ooooooh nice! 1.6? Sorry I dont know mx5 years very well!

I hate you



i was looking on an mx5 based locost before i gave up due to legislation.

still have some parts from when i was collecting.

PS:

Loom is a pain in the **** to sort out.

so many things that you can sell. Join the mx5 forums.

Yep it's a little 1.6 still the motor is all alloy (I believe) and can be lifted out by a gust of wind so the power to weight should be pretty good. The motor is 114BHP out of the box. Also there is limitless info on turbo upgrades

Unfortunately the car has been stripped of most of the sell-able stuff already.

The loom does look interesting, I intent to lose most of the body wiring as I don't need much of it, also the console is going to be minimalised a bit too.

What legislation stopped your build? Is there something I've missed?

Greek legislation.

Was planning and exporting it after SVA back then.

If the car you have on the pic as you got it, then there are plenty of things to sell.

I have been told, the plastic strip running on the bottom of the windscreen if it is not cracked can fetch 25-40 quid.

Air con pump is a good 30+ quid if not knackered.

etc....

Wow!

The plastic bit is good - the aircon is intact and I don't need it and the power steering pump too!

Good news thanks.

Also, things like

front indicators
mazda tool kit
front light motors
strut brace
hood latches

also tend to provide good value

Right, a few hours work and this is what we have, there are loads of bits I plan to use as well.




From the donor I will make use of:

Engine
Transmission
LSD
Drivetrain
Brakes (front and rear)
Uprights (front and rear)
Wiring loom
ECU
Battery
Alternator
Fuel pump / sender
Fuel tank vent
Clocks
Steering column
Pedals
Hydraulic clutch
Heater mech
Wiper mech
Seats

I can't use the steering rack as it is way too long and would need shortening, I know that it is possible but as an escort rack will work why take the risk?

where is the arse end pic???

OK so I have my metal so have made a start by building my table:










Hopefully going to start the chassis proper tomorrow.

Looking good so far! A part of me wishes Id gone for the mx5 engine and box

They are good and so compact for the power! I think that more people will convert to MX5 builds as the Fords become rarer and more build threads pop up - maybe Mr Gibbs could look at doing a supplement... I got that car for a couple of hundred pounds and it has everything I need, they are so common now as all of the imported NAs are starting to rot from the inside out. Good for me - not so good for the wife who has one as a driver...

Good progress over the last few days:



Not without incident though with regards to the front frame. The first issue was apparent when I came to fit tr1 which was about 20mm too short. I posted up on the Haynes forum with a few photos and got a quick reply from regular helper HandyAndy - in one picture I had a rule showing the 75mm overhang on the front frame, Andy noticed that I was measuring from the front of the bottom rail rather than the back - once rectified the rail fitting like a dream. Secondly on fitting tr2 I noticed that the rail was dipping on the right hand side - closer examination with a rule showed that the frame was distorted by 2mm. I took the front frame back off the table and cut the right upright out - replaced the frame on the jig and remade the upright. Having refitted and tacked it is all bang on.





The moral of this tale? Measure twice cut once and more haste less speed...

Looking like a great start, keep it up!

pete still has that metal workbench if you or barry still want it

I think Barry was trying to get hold of you about it - he did want it but don't know what is going on at the mo and he's not logged on here for weeks.

Had a really good day on the car today, I got all of the SB and TR tubes fitted. Hopefully tomorrow Boggle is going to help me get the engine up there so that I can work out the tunnel clearances.

Some photos so far:






[Edited on 6/6/10 by Airhead]

So onto the next step:

I lowered the build table and suspended the engine and box over the frame. It wasn't the most successful operation as I was too aware that a big lump of metal coming into contact with the tacked frame might not be such a good thing and couldn't get any accurate measurements with it floating above so onto plan 'B'.

I took a profile of the bottom of the engine and box, raised the table back up and placed my template on the build table; I was then able to judge where the gear-change should be.



The first obvious thing was that the tunnel was too narrow at the front end so would need modification and that there was sufficient space on the passengers side to allow symetry and a bit more space for the passengers feet.



I still need to brace the modified section to offer strength where I have introduced a bend and will probably try to utilise the seat mounting tubes.

I refrained from posting the hundreds of really boring photos of various bits of metal being tacked in place as for the most part up to now it has been a pretty much well standard build.


Just a front view...


A bit more detail around the transmission tunnel as I had to modify it to take the MX5 box.


I have always worried about the weak point in the frame here - there seems to be a join running right across the full width. For the sake of a few grams of weight I bought some peace of mind...


The other side of the transmission tunnel.


The frame welded and moved forward on the table ready for the rear frame to be fitted.

So the fun starts; I have decided to replicate the MX5 geometry as closely as I can as the chaps at Mazda designed it to work with my spindles, driveshafts etc. I measured the mounting points and thankfully they fit within the bounds of the book dimensions so my rear tub will still fit.


These are the mesurements to the mounting points.

I will post up the CAD drawings with measurements soon but for the moment I have output the 3D model I used to check the validity of what I was trying to do..



The two thin spindles are the "bolts" for the differential - I need to ascertain the hight that it'll sit befor committing but it looks like it'll sit about 10mm higher than the bottom of the frame. There is a slight offset on the input flange - it sits towards the driver by about 25mm (guestamate) but it is small enough that it doesn't interfere with the frame.

OK a quick update - some mods to the overal design of the rear frame and a set of drawings with dimensions.

Looking good.

Keep up the good work.

Exactly what i had in mind when i had started drawing mine when i intended to start my build.

Things are moving on with the build. I have finished designing the wishbones etc and have drawn them both in my CAD package and 3D to prove that they work - in my model the rears have a 1.5° negative camber which is exactly the same as the Mazda donor. I have built in some adjustment just in case.

The 3D ssketches below give some idea of my thinking - the red blobs are placeholders representing the spidle assy.


In this image notice the dogleg in the drivers side SB4. This is necassary because the MX5 diff has the input offeset from the center, a fact taht I didn't notice until the peice was welded in. It would probably have been better to move that stantion over by 25mm before welding but ce la vie.

It might seem that things have slowed down a bit on my build, that's because it has. Not through lack of interest though, I have a couple of other money making projects on the go that need to be fulfilled in order to pay for parts for the seven.

Back to the build: I have been in communication with John at 3GE Components in Exeter http://www.3gecomponents.com who are making my rear suspension wishbones to my design and the fronts to theirs - as that is as far as I am concerned in the advanced manual. I believe that subject to successful testing John will be offering a complete kit for the MX5 donor so watch that space...

I haven't been totally idle though, I have the diff mount made and have test fitted the motor, to be honest I am over the moon! The only point for consideration is that the diff is a real bugg.... sorry, pain to get into the chassis as it has great wings protruding from both sides, a bit of jiggling and some lateral thought and it goes in but how much fun that's be with the car on wheels I don't know. It might be worth making the cage slightly larger of even designing in removable members...





Appologies for the poor picture quality - Apple should have fitted a decent camera to the iPhone :roll:

looking good matt

engine may be a bit high up thou?

im over the garage tonight fitting my hubs

feel free to pop over and say hi as i burn down the house that my ex wife is in

No checked it out there is 230mm of space under the bonnet and the motor just fits. The Yankee car has the sump 50mm below the rails the same as mine. It's all good.

When are you making your bonnet? I have a bit of a track record!

Having seen the quality of your build I'd be stupid not get your help Mark.

I was planning on using Saturn body panels though as I love the way they look - that was my main reason for building to Haynes spec.

Things are about to get a bit more exciting. I have had some communications from 3GE and it looks like the fronts are well on the way to being designed and hopefully build soon! Combine that with finalising the rear design to accomodate the shock mount on the lower wishbone and reprofiling the upper to allow clearance and we might get to see the thing up on wheels soon.. John has sent through the dimensions for the front mounting points and I hope to get out in the garage and get the jigs made up asap.



The upper shock mount I am going to determine when I have the thing assembled but as you can see there is plenty of scope for it's location.



I have to redraw the CAD drawing showing the rear mounting point dimensions as they have been ammended with the reprofiling of the upper but I will add them as soon as I have built the suspension and proved it works.

Matt - that is looking SERIOUSLY good

I have got to see this at some point

Thanks Mark

Pop up and see it anytime you like, she's still just a chassis at the moment but hoping that the wishbones will arrive soon - then I can really crack on.

Matt

Wow!

This looks like a really well thought out project. I too am working on a MX5 based Locost, my problem is the Donor car is my Daily at the moment . I was wondering, if you arent too far away if you could talk me through some adjustments and measurements you have done for this over the standard over a Beer or two (at my expense of course).

[Edited on 19/10/10 by AntonZdz]

Hi

I am only too happy to help out where possible, bearing in mind I am no expert...

There is a subtle difference in the track of the MK1 and MK2 MX5s IIRC - I don't know if this is in the wishbones or the mounting points.

May I ask, if you are driving this donor currently then it can't be that bad - would it make more sense to sell it and get a MK1 donor as there is a fair bit of work already done getting the MK1 gear to fit and 3GE in Exeter are actually producing a wishbone kit to fit. I picked my V-Spec MK1 up for a couple of hundred pounds.

The other school of thought is that it is good to push the boundaries so go for it and develop a locost based on the MK2

BTW I am building based on the Haynes Roadster because I plan to use Saturn body panels, the dimensions of the rear mounts will still be the same for the book chassis if you plan to go that way.

Forgot to ask where you are based BTW?

Matt

[Edited on 19/10/10 by Airhead]

I am Hampshire based!

The MX5 isnt in a bad condition mechanically wise but the history and body work are pretty awful after the last owner, so I thought why the hell not just go for it. My chassis is being built off the Haynes Roadster book. In terms of the wishbones and suspension setup this is something I am looking into currently I was more looking for engine, gearbox and diff mountings. I have replied on the Haynes forum aswell so I am happy to chat with you on which ever you prefer?

I finally have my wishbones! Big thanks to John at 3GE Components http://www.3gecomponents.com/templates1/index.php?site=63 the standard of the workmanship is outstanding and really has to be seen in the flesh to appreciate it.




I still can't take the suspention build forward as I need to get a hold of the bushes but I have laid the components out and thankfully my calculations and design for the rear seems to be sound. Phew.

Whilst I wait to sort the bushes for the suspension I have decided to have a look at the mounting points for the engine and gearbox. Those Japanese folks are pretty clever really and everything in the drivechain is mounted simply which has made the process quite simple so far. The rear-most gearbox mount sits level with the top side of the lower tunnel rail which makes a good start, in this position the gearshift sits nicely in position. The front gear box mount will be sorted once the engine is sitting level.

In a previous life I was in to Land Rovers, tinkering with 90's led me to the perfect solution for the engine mounts. The Mazda parts on my donor were shot as the engine had been suspended from them when the car inverted and the rubber parts had ripped so they were ditched. A quick search through the parts box found a pair of Defender TD5 gearbox mounts which are almost exactly the correct angle to convert from the Mazda OEM brackets to the top side of the lower rail. As a bonus there is even a little pin on the Landrover part which locates into the hole in the Mazda bracket!


This image shows the OEM bracket attached to the TD5 gearbox mount, the engine is suspended in this shot. You can also see the additional rail which has been welded in to bear the weight.



My 3d design sketches prove invaluable as I am able to save time and metal by making mistakes on the PC first.



These images show the finished brackets clamped in place with the engine supported on them, tomorrow I'll whip the engine back out and weld it all together.

Airhead-
I've been following your build diary at http://www.mx5-locost.co.uk/ but can't find any way to get a hold of you to ask questions or make comments.

I'm also doing a Miata build but in the US.

I noticed your chassis status and have one question - How do you plan to install the Miata differential?

Thanks,
Roy (RoyzMG)

Hi Roy,

My inspiration came from looking at the US sites; so it goes full circle

The diff will be suspended from the two plates with good strong bolts, IIRC 12mm fits the holes in the dif nicely. I then intend to hold the front of the diff firmly with a plate welded across the tranny tunnel and one higher up through which I'll put another two big strong bolts. From what I understand the nose of the diff is the area to concentrate on as the torsional force is greatest there. on the MX5 there is an alloy spacer which I hope to use on the front of the diff allowing the mounting plates to be a bit further apart which should ease fitting a bit.

I'll try to find some time to draw what I was planning on the 3d model later.

Matt

Thanks Matt-
I think I understand how you plan to mount the differential but what I was really wondering is how do you plan to physically get the differential piece into place. It looks like you have all the welding done at the back. The differential is a very ackward shape and heavy so how does it fit in between the lower tubes and up into place? Reversely how do you remove the piece?

The odd shape is a problem. Some designs use removeable pieces to allow installation and removal for repair. Is this your thought?

Thanks,
Roy (RoyzMG)

Great looking build Matt.

What are your plans for mounting the diff snout? It seems to be the Achilles heel for many Mazda-based 7s.

[Edited on 3/1/11 by atm92484]

Hey Guys

Roy - sorry mate, I totally misunderstood... There is enough room for me to roll the diff in from the bottom sideways with one arm through the top then putting the lower arm in place rolling the diff back round to level. The downside is that I'll need to remove the fuel tank in order to do this in the completed car. I had toyed with making the lower rails removable but bracing the tops as well so that there isn't too much deformation in the rear frame. I'll post up the pics later when I'm back home.

Andrew - Absolutely right, the nose of the diff is the weak point. I was trying to explain my design in an earlier post but if you watch this space I'll try to get a 3d sketch posted asap.

Matt

I have finally got all of the bits together along with some time so have made some progress. Using a combination of the dimensions from the book and those relevant to the 3GE arms I made a jig akin to that in the book and attached the suspension brakets:

The jig is paramount to accuracy so I started by making a wooden jig to make the jig proper.



I modified the design just slightly by using nuts on the threaded bar in place of the spacer bar; this allowed me to dial in the position of the brackets accurately

With the brackets in place they were welded on shortly followed by the arms and spindles.





Tomorrow we get the rears on.

Looks like ur having lots of fun with this build. Almost makes me wish I was doing a 'scratch build'.

One query, how do you plan on paneling ur tunnel now you have added the kinks? would it not have been easier to straight line the tunnel rather than adding the kink?

It would have been easier but the kinks are necassary to accomodate the gearbox and allow the seat to adjust.

Matt

OK, I now have the rear suspension brackets welded on and the arms, spindles etc all bolted up. It is very nice to have affirmation that my design works at least on the bench. I also have the diff bolted into the frame but will cover the design in a later update.

I aligned the brackets using a very simple jig akin to those used for the fronts:



Unfortunately I forgot to take photos of the lower jig but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to work it out.

And here is the rear end bolted up.

More progress tonight, it feels good to be back working on this project.

This evening I tackled the diff mounting. The MX5 diff is suspended by two bolts which hold the weight of the component via rubber bushes. This means that the diff is free to move around. Mazda fixed this issue by attaching the nose of the diff housing to a big girder that runs the length of the car and holds the gearbox and diff in line. This being the case I have fabricated a strong bracket to keep the diff in check.







The bracket is fully welded on two plates with the other two being held on by the bolts, this will allow for removal of the diff.

Wow - what a lot of progress made over the last couple of days. After what seems like ages the roadster is finally standing on her own two feet, well four wheels.







and with the engine / gearbox fitted...



Next up, steering rack and steering column etc.

Having got the diff mounted up and the engine sitting in the correct alignment it has become apparent that I have made my first real mistake as the gearstick now sits about 2" lower than I originally thought. Also the engine mounts that I chose are no way man enough and I predict problems there, the fix will be posted shortly and it doesn't affect the work done to date as the plates stay in the same position it just means a bit more fabrication. Anyway back to the tunnel mods.

I was never really happy with the roadster tranny tunnel as it is quite high, I measured up on my friends locost made to the old book dims and it appears that his is about 50mm lower. To this end I have cut a section off the base of each upright and remaounted it - the dimension from the top of the lower railto the top of the metalwork is now 220mm which fits the MX5 gearbox more snugly and gives the ocupants of the car a little less claustaphobic existence...


The tunnel as originally planned.

And modified: