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Workshop doors
b14wrc - 26/4/11 at 11:40 AM

Finally got my new doors but unable to fit, see photo of the frame.

Bit gutted over Easter weekend - new part arriving tomorrow, fingers crossed.

I have given them two coats of preservative, looking at clear varnish finish?





Rob


joni - 26/4/11 at 01:47 PM

clear varnish no good as it has no uv protection and will start peeling in no time trust me iam a painter


Confused but excited. - 26/4/11 at 02:00 PM

Wish you'd told me, before I found out the hard way. Even yacht varnish is crap.
Guess what I'm doing next weekend.
From now on it's Sikkens all the way. Expensive buy it works.

[Edited on 26/4/11 by Confused but excited.]


David Jenkins - 26/4/11 at 02:01 PM

I'd be tempted to use something like Sikkens - it comes as undercoat and topcoat - should give you a few years protection and it's easy to maintain. Not the cheapest, but one tin of each will go a long way (probably keep for a few years hence, when you need to tart it up again).


Peteff - 26/4/11 at 04:18 PM

Slap some old engine oil on it, you should have plenty knocking about if you're a locost builder My doors are made of some old site panels which were round a new build and were being disposed of. I just give them a coat of Ronseal Fencelife every couple of years and they haven't rotted yet.


b14wrc - 26/4/11 at 04:38 PM

Joni,

What would you recommend?

I was going to use yacht varnish...... Wanted them clear pine, is this not uv stable?


designer - 26/4/11 at 06:18 PM

I just use a fence treatment, a modern equivalent of creosote.


David Jenkins - 26/4/11 at 06:30 PM

Sikkens will give you a 'posh' finish, like a coloured varnish, but any modern fence/shed treatment will be effective and keep the wood from rotting.


Confused but excited. - 26/4/11 at 06:40 PM

Yacht varnish just peels off and makes a door look like it's got leprosy. (Apologies to any leppers on here).
My back door didn't even last 12 months.