As I've said elsewhere, I've been working on my steering wheel.

It started off with me wanting my wheel a little closer, as I was stretching my arms just a bit too far. This relatively simple job has escalated...

• I decided that it would be good to have the horn push in the middle of the wheel (my existing boss wouldn't allow that) as my current horn switch was a bit inconvenient (I kept sounding the horn when I turned the ignition key with winter gloves on).
  
• I won a Momo boss on eBay which had the necessary slip rings. It was also a little taller than the old one, which was a bonus.
  
• When the boss arrived, I realised that the holes for the wheel were at the modern standard of 70mm PCD. My Astrali wheel - which is quite old - has a 4" PCD (100-and-a-bit mm).
  
• I now had to make an adaptor, which had the added advantage of moving the wheel even closer - but I didn't have a suitable bit of aluminium.
  
• I had to go to Chelmsford - 35 miles away - to buy a piece of 10mm aluminium plate (wife and I made it a day out and went to various places that day).
  
• I then machined the adaptor in my lathe (which I enjoyed doing).
  
• I adjusted the horn wiring - very easy as I had the Sierra slip ring connector that I just had to splice into the existing wiring (also a reasonably fun job).
  
• Assembled the hub and wheel, then tried it on the car - the Momo hub alignment is 30 degrees out from the Astrali one, when put on the Sierra column.
  
• So I took the bonnet and nosecone off, then loosened the steering link so that I could shift the bottom UJ round on the spline until the wheel was straight again (had to do this twice, as my first effort didn't get it quite right).
  
• I then had to blank off the hole where the old horn switch used to be.
  

• The indicator doesn't cancel as reliably as it used to. This is a nuisance, because I can't see the warning lights any more, as moving the wheel back has put it exactly between my eyes and the lights.
  
• I will now have to raise the steering column a tad so I can see the lights again - and there's no easy adjustment. I will have to strip off the cowling, undo the column, make the round holes oval, then re-assemble it all afterwards.
  
• The Sparco horn button doesn't have a nice badge - I can't find one I'd like to buy, so now I'm probably going to spin an aluminium one on the lathe. This involves turning the right shape on the end of a bit of steel bar, making a support to go in the tailstock, then forming the badge. I'll enjoy doing it, but what a time-waster!
  

Now that your an expert perhaps you can do mine for me lol. Always the same isn't it, that little job that's only going to take 5 minutes ends up taking 5 days :-)

Yup, know it well....................

I moved the steering wheel and ended up with new seats and rebuilding the footwells and moving the pedal s forward of the footwell. One week job ended up taking 2 months.

Lowering the seat is the alternative to raising the wheel! I'm not going down that route...

sounds like my whole car tbh. im a gluten for punishment too as i spent the winter swapping the engine only to kill a little end on it a few weeks ago and will have to do it all again. while the engine is out again i thought i would swap the steering rack from a 2.9 to a 2.4 which has turned into an epic adventure as im going to have to take out the oil cooler and rad to get at the thing. which has prompted me to change the mounts for my oil cooler to make it easier to get in and out, which has then prompted a new set of oil cooler hoses to reach the new position, and as it was all apart i thought well i may as well add an accu sump system too. so two weeks in and detling isn't looking like its going to happen in the kit.

guess its all just part of ownership

The final work to reach this point included:

* Elongating the steering column mounting holes so that I could raise the wheel a little and see the warning lights.
* Bending the indicator arm so that I could actually reach it while driving (as I'd moved the wheel back a fair bit).
* Cutting a new notch in the bottom hub of the Momo steering wheel boss so that the indicator cancelling cam actually sat where Ford intended it to sit (considering how much Momo bosses cost when new, I'd have thought that they would have got that one right).
* Making a washer to sit behind the indicator cancelling cam so that the boss didn't scrape on part of the inner steering column gubbins (not sure if that was Momo's fault, or because of the way I set things up).
* Making a badge for the horn push (described elsewhere).

Add that little lot to the first list of 'jobs to do' and it comes to a lot of work for what was meant to be 'a simple little job'!