Hi guys,
heres the end results of the crappy week.
failure 1
failure 2
failure 3
failure 4
That wishbone should be a heavier gauge.
Depends on whether you would rather be replacing wishbones or doing chassis repairs really
Hopefully wont be long before you are back on the road
[Edited on 4/9/12 by MRLuke]
I made a similar wishbone last week and noticed immidiatley that this would be an issue.
I am going to develop a better and stronger set of wishbones.
Just out of interest, did you hit anything? or did they just fail under cornering?
Ive noticed quite a few faliures in that area of the wishbone design.
Bbeen fine for 6 years then went under braking.... Thankfully in a straight line
Bbeen fine for 6 years then went under braking.... Thankfully in a straight line
Looks like it's gone right where you'd expect - as the mounting plate finishes, and the heat affected zone from the weld (MIG?) meets the virgin tube. Quite a good case for brazing there, if you want to make it that slim....
quote:
Quite a good case for brazing there, if you want to make it that slim....
Certainly LOOKS thinner wall than that I used. Did you make them yourself or buy them? Is it ERW or seamless? BTW designer, why can you not braze a chassis for the road?
Caterhams are brazed (or used to be, anyway).
The main thing is that they are bronze-brazed (copper + tin) - very strong - rather than brass-brazed (copper + zinc) - rather brittle.
mope bought in parts when i got the kit
quote:
Originally posted by designer
That wishbone should be a heavier gauge.
Same design as these would be much better haynes roadster FRONT WISHBONE set locost 7 kitcar | eBay
Any idea how I can check dimension and that they fit cortina hubs
Contact details, never hurts to ask
Phil Eagle
4 Ascot Mews
Southminster
Essex
CM0 7GH
United Kingdom
Phone: 07940708360
Email: talonmotorfabrication@gmail.com
quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
Certainly LOOKS thinner wall than that I used. Did you make them yourself or buy them? Is it ERW or seamless? BTW designer, why can you not braze a chassis for the road?
Mine bent at that point I believe due to using a zetec rather than the lighter Kent engine which the locost idea originally housed. MK mas me some in Flat oval bar never had a problem after that
quote:
Originally posted by nib1980
Any idea how I can check dimension and that they fit cortina hubs
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by designer
That wishbone should be a heavier gauge.
That wishbone should be properly designed rather than just making a flawed design heavier. The GTS style wishbones have a fraction of the bending moment (in both planes) that this one does, and is probably lighter.
who made the original wishbones that broke ?
quote:
Originally posted by designer
quote:
Quite a good case for brazing there, if you want to make it that slim....
Don't think you are allowed to braze road cars, even if racers do it.
I've never seen anything that suggested that any form of connecting parts was illegal, other than to suggest that it should be secure and strong enough. No reason not to glue parts if you can do it in a controlled and safe way.
Most IVA inspectors do not like brazing as you cannot guarantee what rod you have used and, above all, who has done it. Welding is prefered as it is easier for an amateur and easier to judge the quality by the look.
But does it specify anywhere that you can't? I think they'd have a hard job arguing it really, in the same way they can't see who made it and how, the same applies to a whole heap of stuff - at what point do you stop - is your flywheel lightened? If so, how do they know it won't explode - who did it and how?
I've had a car fail mot because of brazed sills and that was over 25 years ago so I'd presume it's not allowed on anything structural even if various racing machines have used it.
quote:
Originally posted by skodaman
I've had a car fail mot because of brazed sills and that was over 25 years ago so I'd presume it's not allowed on anything structural even if various racing machines have used it.