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Garage Winch Point

daveb666 - 18/2/14 at 01:02 PM

My locost currently sits like this in the garage:

Description

To get the car in that position I wheel the trailer in by hand, and then drive the car up on to it.

Last weekend I got the car on the trailer ready for a trackday and had it on the drive facing the opposite way, ready to be towed off in the morning. I tried to push the trailer & car backwards into the garage but the small lip on the garage entrance made this impossible.

As my trailer has a winch on the front of it, I want to add something to the rear of the garage floor so that I can either winch the trailer in in reverse, or in the event the car is undriveable, winch it directly into the garage nose first.

I've seen things like these to stop people stealing motorbikes:

Would that be safe to winch a car/trailer on?

Any ideas? The attached is around Ł50 from screwfix which quite alot tbh, I'm after locost solutions

*edit*

Just found this on eBay;
HEAVY DUTY GROUND WALL ANCHOR/BIKE/BICYCLE/PUSHBIKE/LAWN MOWER/IDEAL FOR GARAGES

Would that be able to take the weight of a trailer/car?

[Edited on 18/2/14 by daveb666]

MP3C - 18/2/14 at 01:24 PM

you just need an anchor point made from metal using some masonry bolts to hold it into the ground. So what you have found would be fine although you could probably get somebody to make you something similar from steel for fraction of the price.

These should be more than adequate once you have your anchor.

They would hold the anchor in place for you to winch from easily.

Matt

Edit: Just seen the link in your edit. I would personally get something a bit stronger than that, preferably with 4 bolts in as unsure of the quality of floor it is attaching to.

Something like HEAVY DUTY BOLT DOWN GROUND WALL ANCHOR / / MOTORCYCLE /CARAVAN / LADDERS.

[Edited on 18/2/14 by MP3C]

samjc - 18/2/14 at 01:33 PM

Like mat says have a plate made up with a loop on something sturdy out of thick steel and then add 4 or even 6 long rawbolts to ancor it down. Done things similar to your picture years ago n its what ill be making when i get a trailer as id hate to have it all ready for a track day n some heartless sod picks up the trailer n drives off.

MP3C - 18/2/14 at 01:39 PM

Oh and don't use the shear nuts that come with it, or you will have a hell of a job getting it back out.

Matt

samjc - 18/2/14 at 01:41 PM

Something like this

http://www.kevela.co.uk/info/xl-heavy-duty-lock-loop-silver/404/911/

Id personal drill out the 4 holes for these and maybe add an extra 2 in the centre just in case.

http://m.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m6-x-70mm-pack-of-5/60234

daveb666 - 18/2/14 at 01:46 PM

Thanks guys for the help. Think I'll get one of the Ł13.99 ones from Ebay - I know it could be made cheaper but I don't have a welder or random bits of metal so it's all relative really!

Regards

MP3C - 18/2/14 at 01:53 PM

When you fix it make sure you fix it so the loop is pointing the front and rear of the garage to reduce the shear stress when winching.

And don't use the shear nut bolts that come with it they really are a bugger to get out!

Matt

Ben_Copeland - 18/2/14 at 02:39 PM

Put some weight on then you'd be able to push the trailer, lanky git

40inches - 18/2/14 at 04:03 PM

One of these

britishtrident - 18/2/14 at 06:05 PM

Keep it simple all you need is a single m12 threaded stud resin anchored through the concrete floor.

Then just use a suitable strip of steel plate to couple it to shackle.

I would use a pulley so the pull is exerted through the rear of the trailer to pull it in straight.

[Edited on 18/2/14 by britishtrident]

gremlin1234 - 18/2/14 at 09:09 PM

would this work?
Purpleline Hitchdrive caravan trailer mover
Purpleline Hitchdrive caravan trailer mover
electric ones are also available, but not locost

blakep82 - 18/2/14 at 10:02 PM

Use your towing car to push it over the edge, then move it by hand from there if you need?

Matt21 - 20/2/14 at 09:16 AM

my dad did this at his house, the drive is very steep!!

he drilled a hole into the concrete at an angle, dropped a steel rod down that had a plate and eye welded on the top and attached a winch.

when not needed you simple pull it out the hole.

its been used to pull a pug 306, boat and trailer (2tonne+), l200 pickup up the drive with no dramas

mcerd1 - 20/2/14 at 11:14 AM

have you got a big enough drill to do big holes in the concrete ? (say 14mm, 18mm or 22mm ?)

owelly - 20/2/14 at 11:45 AM

Drill a hole through the back wall of the garage and use a bit of 16mm threaded rod with an eye bolt on the inside. Or pass a steel rope through the hole.

daveb666 - 20/2/14 at 12:13 PM

quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Keep it simple all you need is a single m12 threaded stud resin anchored through the concrete floor.
Then just use a suitable strip of steel plate to couple it to shackle.
I would use a pulley so the pull is exerted through the rear of the trailer to pull it in straight.
[Edited on 18/2/14 by britishtrident]

I understand its a simple thing (especially if you built your own car) but I don't have random bits of steel laying about unfortunately and would need to buy these from somewhere.

quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
would this work?
Purpleline Hitchdrive caravan trailer mover
Purpleline Hitchdrive caravan trailer mover
electric ones are also available, but not locost

That's a great idea but a bit more than I'd like to spend really.

quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
Use your towing car to push it over the edge, then move it by hand from there if you need?

You'd think wouldn't you LOL ? Unfortunately my drive is on a curve and I can't get the angle I need as I only have 1cm space on either side of the trailer when putting it in the garage

quote:
Originally posted by Matt21
he drilled a hole into the concrete at an angle, dropped a steel rod down that had a plate and eye welded on the top and attached a winch. when not needed you simple pull it out the hole.

That's effectively what I needed but again I don't have a welder so needed something off the shelf.

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
have you got a big enough drill to do big holes in the concrete ? (say 14mm, 18mm or 22mm ?)

Got a 14mm so hopefully that should be OK

quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Drill a hole through the back wall of the garage and use a bit of 16mm threaded rod with an eye bolt on the inside. Or pass a steel rope through the hole.

Unfortunately the rear wall of my garage is made of thermite blocks so I'm unable to attach anything to the rear wall - it would either just tear out or in the worst case pull the wall down LOL.

I've decided to buy this from the MP3C link that was posted:

I know it's probably over-priced for what it is but I don't have the faclities to construct anything like this of my own so it's just easier to order it.

Thanks all for your ideas and suggestions - I really appreciate it.

[Edited on 20/2/14 by daveb666]

mcerd1 - 20/2/14 at 01:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by daveb666

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
have you got a big enough drill to do big holes in the concrete ? (say 14mm, 18mm or 22mm ?)

Got a 14mm so hopefully that should be OK

14mm is the perfect size for an M12 resin anchor

if you don't have any old scrap this is my super-locost idea - basically the same as BT's idea above, but without the extra bit of steel

drill a 14mm hole in the floor at least 100mm deep, but ideally as deep as you can without going through the bottom (try an leave 25 - 50mm)

buy a length of M12 threaded rod (aka studding), you should be able to get 500mm or so quite cheap
bend one end into a rough loop so you end up with a big P shape and weld it together
cut the tail down to the length you want so when it sitting in the hole the loop is a little way off the floor (say ~50 - 100mm off the floor)

buy some 'chemical anchor' resin (any builders merchant, even B&Q these days) should be no more that Ł10 plus the gun (should be Ł10 max. but some guns are cheaper than others)
then gust glue it in using the instruction on the resin

(instructions on the resin are normally something like: blow the dust out the hole, ~ half fill the hole with resin, sick the anchor in and wait 24h before loading it)

what ever you do the resin is also ideal for any anchors into concrete (or solid brick and block etc... - not so good for hollow blocks though)

[Edited on 20/2/2014 by mcerd1]

Matt21 - 22/2/14 at 10:14 PM

or just drill the whole as deep as you can, weld a rod to the drill bit and drill even deeper, like 12" or so

drop a steel rod/threaded bar down, mark where the floor is and bend a loop as close to that as possible and weld it closed.

if you drill the hole at an angle towards whatever you're pulling, the rod wont come out when its under load, then when you're done, just pull the rod out so theres nothing to trip over.

if you get a scrap of steel plate to weld around the neck of it, even better, just spreads the load abit more

coyoteboy - 23/2/14 at 07:25 AM

Personally I'd take exactly the route he said he is planning to, seems like a cheap easy secure idea. I like the removability of the slanted bar ideas but I'd want to drip at least 100 down for it which might penetrate the slab and cause leaking and if the floor is softer concrete it may break away over time where the loose bar point loads the top rim in the direction of loading.

As mentioned though, mount the loop in line with the car so the bending load is better handled. It will act as a simple pulley too which is nice.

daveb666 - 24/2/14 at 09:42 AM

Appreciate the further replies that have been given after my last one - however I think some are missing the point - I DO NOT have a welder so had no option but to purchase an already-made solution.

The bits arrived over the weekend and were fitted - I bent one of the bolts when fitting though so had to open up the hole and fit a bigger anchor in one corner.

Thankfully the garage is intergral, so the concrete base is in good condition and free from damp.

This is the finished result:

[Edited on 24/2/14 by daveb666]