Introducing, the balsacost, 1:8 scale!


Balsa Frame 3

It's already at least 12 inches long, and will probably end up around 14 inches. It's a straight book-build, but with balsa & superglue instead of steel.

I will probably do the suspension in steel or copper wire with real springs, with some fake look-alike struts, should be a working (if not performance) suspension.

Let me know what you think, and where I might find a very accurate 4-banger 1:8 scale engine. (not one that runs! but a cheap source for a look-alike) (even if it's made of thimbles and string) Any suggestions at all of where to locate parts that look like the real thing would be welcome.

Looking good so far.

Try your local model shop, they might beable to help with some RC suspension if you can find the right scale

Get a model Fireblade and knick the engine

quote:

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Originally posted by Triton
Get a model Fireblade and knick the engine

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Iv got/had a model fzr. the engine would be just about the right size!!!

Id like to se the finished article.

quote:

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Originally posted by Triton
Get a model Fireblade and knick the engine

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Looking good so far. I have thought about doing something similar myself but time always seems to be against me.
Keep us posted on your progress.

its very easy to use a hot glue gun. I just found the accurate cutting a triffle fiddly.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-1-12-Caterham-Super-Seven-7-JPE-Model-10203-New_W0QQitemZ6002550319QQcategoryZ80548QQcmdZViewItem

i can see now why i dont bother coming on this site !!!


some builders on this site could not manage a balsa model in 5 years let alone the real thing made from scatch as per the book
looks left, hears one i made earler

[Edited on 8/10/05 by steve m]

i can see why no one missed you...

maybe thats a bit harsh, but whilst we're having fun doing things, you just chip in with one liners and pisstakes.

[Edited on 8/10/05 by JoelP]

sorry to wee of the genuine builders, but i started my car in 1997, from the book,
and finished in 1999 all from scratch, and with no other help what so ever and this site wasnt even thought about
just a figment of imagination!

now we have somthing like 5800 members of which 500 might finish a car
the rest are dreamers and will only accumualte a pile of bits, also when this site was first availabale it was for the use of gathering or furthering the knowledge of building a car

now if we look down the top 10 posters i make it that only 5 out of ten actually have a car on the road

does this not say something ??


steve

[Edited on 8/10/05 by steve m]

well, without commenting on the rest of the builders, making models is an important part of visualising the chassis strengths/weaknesses, and working out which bits are going to be hard to make. Maybe this isnt as applicable to a book locost, but its still a fun excercise.

Maybe most of the people here wont finish a car (i counted more than 5 of the top 10 though) but its the trying thats the fun. Ive felt like giving up many times.

I guess this is a more general community than it was when it began, some people build genuine locosts, some build the 7 kits, some scratch build to their own designs, some modify production cars, some just dream and learn, and others just post jokes... and then theres internet addicts like me

Yea, what JoelP said.

I find the site entertaining, very informative, and it keeps up my enthusiasm to keep going on my build.

If it consisted only of people who were actually seriously building, a lot less would be posted as everyone would be in the garage!

SteveM, you have spent enough time to post 480 times since you finished your car in 97 (or was it 99?), so you are at least passing on the knowledge, why stress that some people may not finish anything - leaves more parts floating around for the rest of us.

Cheers

Fred WB

ok
thanks for the reply, If as I do know someone was to make a non standard chassis, then the idea of a balsa model is a very good start, but a book chassis ????

sorry, i do not see were that is coming from,
my car is built from "the book edition one", with all its flaws and inaccuarcies (spelling?) and i did it ok, just had to rejig some measurements

as you say some people are internet addicts, and yes i spend time here, but, if i had asked a question and waited for some response at every time i was stuck, then i would still be building now, as every one has a different approach to what to do, and what is correct, then to add the muppets (at least 1000 on here) who havent a clue how to change a light bulb let alone build a car!!
it is quite obvious why so many will fail

sorry for my response, as having been on the road for 6 years, and been to so many shows, over these years I have met some of the most amazing muppets on this planet, and some of the questions i have had, (ask other guys that are on the road, what they have been asked ??) defy all reasonable doubt!!
i have also met some really cool guys that have asked very reasonable questions, you will find that out when you go to a show

there should be a law stopping some of these idiots picking up a welder!!

Fred, your correct! and as you say only 480 posts, but I do have a car on the road finished may 1999

ive had a recount and out of the top ten
i count 5 real book locosts, and 2 kits

still not very good tho is it

Well, as long as the people who are members here enjoy themselves does it really matter?

Didn't realise there was a band of Locost nazi police about to make sure we all do things by the book and nout else

:rolleyes:

quote:

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Originally posted by steve m
..i started my car in 1997, from the book, and finished in 1999 all from scratch, and with no other help what so ever

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Geez, I didn't know you had to qualify you're presence here by having already finished a build?

There was me thinking in all innocence that we were here to help each other during our builds!
How wrong can an old fool be? (no, don't answer that!)

Terry

Ha,

that's just made me have a sneeky look to see if I'm in the top ten again - and I am!

Cool.

I've finished my car if that helps with the calculations.

Does it matter? Quite a few people see the internet as entertainment, and you might think that people who've finished their cars would post less, if at all.

I think that generally most people who've finished see coming in and answering questions as a way of helping out - giving a bit back if you like.

I see all as welcome.

Cheers

Chris

[Edited on 9/10/05 by chrisg]

to be frank i think the site is fabulous and if it wasnt here i would have thrown the towel in a long time ago, as well as it being educational its also a laugh.
just my 2penny worth

cheers chris

oh dear shall i leave now building a kit and I'm a furry muppet

Steve (M)

Did you make all your bodywork (nosecone/bonnet/sides/scuttle/arches and rear panel)?

ATB

Simon

quote:

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Originally posted by chrisg
Ha,

that's just made me have a sneeky look to see if I'm in the top ten again - and I am!

Cool.

I've finished my car if that helps with the calculations.

Does it matter? Quite a few people see the internet as entertainment, and you might think that people who've finished their cars would post less, if at all.

I think that generally most people who've finished see coming in and answering questions as a way of helping out - giving a bit back if you like.

I see all as welcome.

Cheers

Chris

[Edited on 9/10/05 by chrisg]

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I quite like some of the muppets in here! Although I'm not in the top 10, I've built 2 book cars. The proportions seen just right and the (1 inch) taller MKs and MAc1s etc lose a little in translation. I've also seen Steves car and it was an inspiration to get mine finished!
I believe Steve did some of the fibreglass work, but why re-invent the wheel if nosecones are readily available.
He did a lot of sewing too in the seats and tonneau (spelling!). And best of all STILL runs a crossflow!

Marcus

quote:

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G.Man - Well, as long as the people who are members here enjoy themselves does it really matter?

Didn't realise there was a band of Locost nazi police about to make sure we all do things by the book and nout else

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Thanks Marcus,
we have all had a good laugh over the years ??? and yes still running a xflow, (no 4)
Yes, i did make the cycle wings and bonnet bulge, the nose cone and rear arches were off a "lotus 7" not caterham, and all have been re built to the spec i wanted,

"Steve (M)
Did you make all your bodywork (nosecone/bonnet/sides/scuttle/arches and rear panel)?"

why would i do that ???

it would just end up looking like every other fiberglass "7 " clone on the market,
i had in my head right from the start the exact look that i wanted, and it had to look like a "7"

as said on here before, we are all different, and have different idea's

its just that mine reflects the original "lotus 7" concept

miserable old git(about as old as his crossflow!!) springs to mind!!!
it's really imformative and helpful and a good laugh too!!!:

I am starting my build on the 17th "kit "delivery" day...

Wanna start a sweepstake on how long before its ready for SVA

I put the tranny tunnel in and most of the rear end. For the rear, I used some thick aluminum wire (actually made for wiring bonsai trees). It's got this nice brown coating on it, which should make it easy to paint. And, in 1:8 scale, it's about 3/4 inch thick.

Totals so far:
Time: 5 hours
Money: ~6 dollars



Balsa Frame 4

how did you get it looking so accurate and square? did you jig it or just hold it over drawn triangles etc? Is the glue flexible or solid?

when i did one, ((not locost)1/4 scale, but still only 18" long!), i drew it onto a piece of wood and then used a hot glue gun and just held the bits in place til it cooled.

[Edited on 11/10/05 by JoelP]

quote:

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Originally posted by millenniumtree
I put the tranny tunnel in and most of the rear end. For the rear, I used some thick aluminum wire (actually made for wiring bonsai trees). It's got this nice brown coating on it, which should make it easy to paint. And, in 1:8 scale, it's about 3/4 inch thick.

Totals so far:
Time: 5 hours
Money: ~6 dollars



Balsa Frame 4

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It's not particularly square, and several of the measurements are off.

The tranny tunnel is too high, and the back is twisted slightly.

The glue I'm using is a superglue that quickly goes tacky, but takes a long time to harden up. Once it's hard, it's like regular superglue... Won't budge. It's a nice gap filler too, so if my measurements are a bit off, I just squirt some extra glue in there and it fills the gap real nice.

I plan on covering it with sheet aluminum that I bought for another project, and maybe carving the nosecone out of a block of wood. If that works well, I'll make a mold of the cone in something, and try heat-gunning some thin plastic into the mold for a future balsacost. We'll see.

I know some of you may think this is silly, but I'm viewing it as a testbed for future projects, and eventually, building the real car. I can already tell I'll need to be more thorough in my measurements.

I might make 10 $20 balsacosts before I ever start on the real thing. I might even work my way up in size from 1:8 scale to 1:6th, 1:4, 1:2 (single-seater) and then build the full-size, roadworthy, expensive car.

It's far from silly. Most car manufacturers begin with scale models to assess everything from asthetics to functionality. Plus it gives you a better understanding of the individual elements and the order of assembly.
You wouldn't catch me building a girlie thing like that though.

New bits:
Floorpan
Nose Bottom plate
Seatback metal
Seatbelt mount points (all of above from aluminum roof flashing)
Rear wheel arch curved support (out of aluminum wire)

I've been having a hell of a time locating ANY model cars in 1:8 scale!! I found a few bikes, but they're all "choppers" with harley motors. And all the 1:8 scale model cars are either R/C (with no nice motor look-alikes) or so bloody expensive I could buy 2 donors instead of the model. (like, 2 grand, literally!)

I might be able to get a die-cast 1:10 scale supra or skyline and just PRETEND it's a smaller motor from another car.

Another option is just to fit a cheapo electric motor under the bonnet and call it "rotary"!


Balsa Frame 5

[Edited on 19/10/05 by millenniumtree]

quote:

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Originally posted by JoelP
how did you get it looking so accurate and square? did you jig it or just hold it over drawn triangles etc? Is the glue flexible or solid?

when i did one, ((not locost)1/4 scale, but still only 18" long!), i drew it onto a piece of wood and then used a hot glue gun and just held the bits in place til it cooled.

[Edited on 11/10/05 by JoelP]

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I guess it's pretty square, except for a couple of mis-measurements (which didn't really throw off squareness as much as height in certain areas.)

NOTE: All following measurements are in scale, so when I say 1 inch, I mean 1/8 inch.

Today, I had to correct a major flaw in the rear. The seat backing plate was too wide by 2 inches. I put the pipes running up the sides of the seat back panel too far out, and this would have not allowed me to put the rear trailing arms in. I did a couple of precision cuts of the superglue and removed these pipes, scribed the aluminum and bent it off 1 inch on either side, then relocated the pipes 1 inch farther in, to where they should have been in the first place.

Considering the ease with which this was accomplished, I may take an inch off the height of the propshaft tunnel too. I'm glad I'm messing things up now. Cutting superglue is sure easier than de-welding.

milleniumtree,

It's a bit late, but I reckon if you'd built in 1/12 scale, you could have used a bike engine from a Tamiya kit!

ATB

Simon

When you do the real thing I am sure you will learn to handle an angle grinder in the same deft way as you are using a scalpel to cut the superglue, the grinder will do just the same for your dodgy welds:-)

Caber