Hi guys.
This is my first post on here so may I start by saying what a great forum this is.
Right straight to business, I have dabbled with cars for a good few years biggest jobs being gear box/clutch and cylinder head on a capri, that said I have done hundreds of smaller jobs ball joints etc on various cars.
My simple question is if I buy a chassis pre built, as I have no welding skills, knowing the above jobs I have done in the past, do you think I am up to building a low cost car?
I know it is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string question" but I have realy no idea of what is involved as I havnt even read the book yet. Typical potential low cost builder, wont spend the money on the book in case it is wasted.

Short answer is a definite yes.

If you can mess about with cars you can obviously use your hands. Therefore you'll deffo be able to build a Locost type car.

If there's anything you're not sure about there's an abundance of people (not all imbeciles) that can help you on here.

As for the imbeciles, you all know who I am... No wait...

I resemble that statement!

It might be worth considering buying a part finished build, good VFM but you need to be careful that the workmanship is ok.

Tinkering with old 'frauds was how I got into this so youre ok by me!

Time is the thing I've found most difficult as there is always someone on here willing to help you if you get stuck technically.

Go for it.

Dave

Andy,

I'd only ever done minor maintenance on cars before starting my Locost. The only mechanical thing other than that was to make a 5" gauge model steam engine!

I'd guess that you will need:

1. Reasonable manual skills (can take things to bits and put them back together afterwards).
2. Something useful between the ears - common-sense, mostly.
3. Patience.
4. A garage or workshop that you can use for a long period, with light and power (although people have managed without).
5. Welding kit (MIG most common, but some have used oxy-acetylene)
6. Realistic expectations of budget and time.
7. A sympathetic partner (if relevant)

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys. I posses all of the above on davids list exept number 5.
Mig welders are fairly inexpensive especialy second hand so purchasing one wouldnt be a problem. The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin "considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?

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Originally posted by andyjack
The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin "considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?

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i would answer yes to your question. (I don't intend to build my own chassis, I want to save time and buy an MK. )

I learnt to weld a few years back at college and built a pedal kart. Hardly a locost I know but looking at the standard of welding I got to in a short space of time and whats needed for a solid chassis (structurally, smart asses) I think its not going to be a problem for you.

Ned.

quote:

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Originally posted by andyjack
The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin "considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?

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At the end of the day the only person who can answer your question is you! I decided to build my own chassis so bought the MIG, did the practice and so far things are going OK. This option was actually more expensive but I will have the MIG for future projects. Best advice is to do your research, (here's a good place to start) and if you do decide to build your own be cautious of the lower end of the welder market.

Mick

Actually, if a Locost chassis is the only reason for buying a MIG+gas+regulator, and you'll not use it much afterwards, you should seriously consider buying a chassis.

I know that this contradicts my previous advice, but the cost of the steel + MIG + regulator + wire + gas is not far short of the cost of a chassis + suspension arms.

Mind you, if you consider that building a chassis is part of the fun...

David

I present the allegation that there may be imbeciles on this site and if I find out who the alligator is he will be severally repmiranded. Toled off. By the way don't go for less than a 130 amp welder as some of the thicker parts will need at least this to penetrate. Bigger is better. Start your practise on thicker stuff, that way you won't get discouraged when you blow it to pieces and work your way down to the 16g end gradually.

yours, Pete.

And MIG's can be useful after you've finished the car - I've bought an old car trailer that needs a bit of sorting and adapting - impossible without the MIG.

And MIG's can be useful after you've finished the car - I've bought an old car trailer that needs a bit of sorting and adapting - impossible without the MIG. But if I was to build another I'd buy a chassis.

Speaking of trailers.. anyone know ballpark prices to buy or hire trailers?

the welding book I have from the library has plans to build a vehicle trailer.. I'm looking at my new MIG welder and getting ideas.. like maybe I could build one, use it for carting the locost around for SVA and so on, then sell it for a profit? not looked into it much though.

[Edited on 8/7/03 by blueshift]

Blueshift mate,

Those trailer plans, there not the sort of thing you could scan an send to the likes of me are they?

Cheers

Chris

Does a trailer have to be tested / certified before you can use it on the road ???. Must be some sort of regs governing this ?? Other wise people would build trailers out of old scrap that fell apart on the first bump !!!!

andyjack:

quote:

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The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?

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Blueshift, if the plans are available could i have a set ??

steve

Trailers are legally required to be fitted with a plate showing the manufacturer, gross weight, max load, and so on.

Incidentally, the towbar is also required to have a plate showing max load, etc.

I haven't got my indespension catalogue to hand (it's at home) but their website may have details. The cat cetainly goes into a lot of detail.

http://www.indespension.com/home.htm

Also Towsure

http://www.towsure.co.uk/

cheers,

David

yeah, but surely you could rebuild an old trailer, much like people do duttons, then you wouldn't need the plates?! You don't even need a v5 to 'rebuild' a trailer!

Ned.

Trouble is, you might encounter a policeman when he's at 'the wrong time of the month' - if he's in the mood to nick someone, it won't matter how trivial the fault is.

There's nothing to stop you making your own trailer plate, anyway - there's no legal aspect to it (as long as you don't load the trailer higher than your declared max!). I guess that the max load can be taken from the suspension unit ratings.

Mind you, my little trailer has a plate - it's sitting on my bench, waiting to be glued back on (and has been for 12 months )

David

Where are these things cheap, get me one. I haven't seen them less than £140 in U.K.
I've built a few trailers for friends and usually make them as simple as possible to keep weight down. I had an old Towsure parts catalogue that had plans in it for bike, car and boat trailers. The last one I built was an allotment transport for rotovators etc. and used 1/2 ton indespension units from http://www.northerntooluk.com/default.asp?C1=Trailer+Parts&offset=10
Loads cheaper than Towsure and good quality stuff.

yours, Pete.

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
Where are these things cheap, get me one.

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For seeing what I'm doing welding I've used my friend's 2x500W halogen site light from screwfix (about 20 quid) which makes the work area bright enough to see easily through common-or-garden welding glass. Electronics would be nice but I don't have the money.

I've had another look at the trailer "plans" and they're terse to say the least. I'll try and get them scanned tonight, though.

[Edited on 9/7/03 by blueshift]

I just use a cheapo hand held conventional viewing shield that came with the welder. With a bit of practice, you can get the timing right and not miss or blind yourself before the arc strikes!

How people use fixed goggles tho gets me....


atb

steve

After giving myself arc-eye a few weekends ago, I'm in no hurry to risk a repeat performance...



David

If that's the cheapest I'll stick with my non auto ones. I use a hand held for little jobs but if I'm doing anything fiddly that needs 2 hands I use a head mounted shield with the side screws a bit loose, lift it up to see what I'm doing, hold whatever it is with the left hand then nod head so visor falls into place. Works o.k. for me.

yours, Pete.

quote:

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
After giving myself arc-eye a few weekends ago, I'm in no hurry to risk a repeat performance...



David

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I have never had arc eye myself, always had the mask down!

But I have given it to a few other people though!!! The worst case was spray welding(400 amps plus) some tank carrier suspension parts in a factory with a white roof and white walls. I was in a large welding bay with welding curtains, the UV reflected of the roof and back off the wall where 15 assembly workers were working facing the wall. All 15 were off work the next day with very sore eyes and a total lack of sleep!

When working at home, my family are aware of the danger and stay clear, but I am particularly careful with my dogs who are blissfully unaware of the danger.

quote:

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Originally posted by stephen_gusterson

He related a story of someone with arc eye he worked with. Was described as being like sunburn in the eyes. Screamingly bad.

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I worked on an arcair machine in a fettling bay years ago and was being watched by someone who wanted to see how it worked as he had seen the bright lights and was drawn to them like a moth. He had a sight glass for welding, just a square to look through not really dark enough and I warned him what would happen. He was off work for 4 days, his eyes were like sheeps t*%ts and he peeled everywhere his skin was exposed. He never came to watch again. If someone is wearing a solid wool jacket and overtrousers, an air fed helmet, silver reflective mitts and a blacked out visor, don't stand and watch in your T shirt is the moral.

yours, Pete.

Andy,

KWIKN, I'd be inclined to buy a chassis (fortunately I didn't need to learn to weld). If you're keen on making your own, try and find a pro to get some proper help to start you off or get yourself on a welding course.

Buying steel/base board/clamps etc (what you'll need for chassis jigging/construction) and welding equip will cost you between 300 and 500 quid. You s/be able to get a chassis and a few other bits and pieces for the top end price - which will save you the worry of your welding ability, time, frustration, and let you get straight on with the build.

However, as I'm sure those who have built their own will testify, it is immensely satisfying.

And you can (within reason) modify the book chassis to suit your inclination. Several of us have gone 4" wider, some have lengthened engine bay, boot, cockpit etc.

Whatever you decide, keep us informed, and if you need advice, someone on here will (probably) know the answer/be able to provide some constuctive advice.

Also, as others have mentioned - Safety First!!

ATB

Simon