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Wheel bearings
oliwb - 8/6/08 at 08:22 AM

Hi Guys just hoping the collective wisdom can have a quick look at this picture for me. I'm replacing the wheel bearings on the back axle and just want to know whether people think I need to replace the races as well?? This is the worst of them and you can see a line where the bearings have been running and also 2 pit marks. Not really sure how bad it can be before it needs replacing....Oli. Rescued attachment DSC00013.jpg
Rescued attachment DSC00013.jpg

oliwb - 8/6/08 at 08:24 AM

and t'other side.... Rescued attachment DSC00014.jpg
Rescued attachment DSC00014.jpg

owelly - 8/6/08 at 08:25 AM

That's better!!

I may have got hold of the wrong end of your stick, but don't wheel bearing sets come with the complete inner and outers? If that is the outer race, then it's U/S and needs changing. You could drown everthing in grease and keep your fingers crossed but you'll end up creaming your new bearings.

rusty nuts - 8/6/08 at 08:32 AM

Not worth doing half a job!

Thinking about it - 8/6/08 at 08:37 AM

The race is the other half of the bearing. No point in changing the bearing and not the race.

The old ones come out easy enough and new ones should have come with the new bearings.

britishtrident - 8/6/08 at 08:54 AM

As the above post

---- actually the outer looks pretty knackered must have been noisy.

eznfrank - 8/6/08 at 08:54 AM

As above, they're machined in pairs so must be replaced in pairs. Even if they seem a decent fit in reality at such small tolerances they probably aint. They'd wear much quicker too.

They can be a bit of a pig to do but def worth it.

oliwb - 8/6/08 at 07:00 PM

Do I need a press to do these? They're actually on a landrover axle....The workshop and haynes manual suggest you don't and I guess if I put the new ones in the freezer it will be easier but is it one of these get the parts and pay a fiver to someone with a press to do it or try myself? The races don't actually come with the bearings. They are supposed to outlast the bearings. The other side of the car is not nearly as bad. I had that halfshaft out about 12 months ago and put it back together properly. However this side was totally bodged on. I had to take a cold chisel to the big nut to get it off - thats how tight they were! So much for .1mm of end float! Oli.

andyps - 9/6/08 at 04:39 PM

quote:
Originally posted by eznfrank
As above, they're machined in pairs so must be replaced in pairs. Even if they seem a decent fit in reality at such small tolerances they probably aint. They'd wear much quicker too.

They can be a bit of a pig to do but def worth it.


For a car application they will not be matched cup and cone (inner and outer) but are made to close enough tolerances to be OK whatever, unless they are a matched set with spacer as used on Mini wheel bearings. Sold as complete bearings for the aftermarket though.

Having said that, those outers are knackered and should be replaced, it would be false economy not to replace them.

DarrenW - 11/6/08 at 08:14 PM

Your outer race is well knacked. Change it.

Bearing inner and outer races are not always machined as matched pairs, but to achieve a specific radial clearance they are measured and balls are matched during assembly. In general i would not advise mixing them.

andyps - 15/6/08 at 08:42 PM

With a nut adjusted tapered roller bearing there is no need to match inner and outer (cone and cup) as they will be sorted during assembly. With a spacered assembly it is important as the spacers will be matched to the specific components. In some instances the bearing stand (large end of cone to large end of cup) is critical and they are matched for this. Car wheel bearings don't fit this need.

For aftermarket purposes, they are usually sold as complete bearings though so just use what comes in the box, and use all the bits!