Padstar
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posted on 27/6/12 at 10:53 PM |
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Putting on weight with age
I am planning to start my roadster build shortly and am just finishing clearing out the garage in perpetration.
I want to set up a work table in the next week to build the chassis from which has me a little puzzled. Obviously the chasis is fabricated on the
table, but at what point is it moved to axle stands? I would have thought 95% of the build would be from the table, even after the transition instal.
This is the problem. How much weight must my work table take. Most trestles will not carry the 700kg I guess a car will weight? Do you just build the
chassis then work from axle stands? Guessing this would be too low.
Had planned on buying two of these http://www.keter.com/products/folding-work-table (on special in Costco at the moment) as they carry 450kg each so
between a pair should cover the full car. Not sure how I will get it off though
How much can I expect the car to weight at various stages. When have u guys removed from the table to axle stands? What is the best option?
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vanepico
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posted on 27/6/12 at 11:02 PM |
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Well I haven't built anything yet but the chris gibbs book tells you to get to a rolling chassis then get it on the floor to put in the engine.
They are normally like 750kg max with engine so I don't think that would be a problem
Pete
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wilkingj
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posted on 27/6/12 at 11:04 PM |
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I built an oblong frame on castors then used two Black n Decker work mates.
The advantage was that I could move the car in the garage giving more room to work on it. It made a lot of difference.
Its surprising how much stuff you will have lying about on the floor etc etc.
Also I bought a cheapo £19 Tesco Value vacuum (ball type) cleaner. It was invaluable for hoovering up swarf and general mess.
It has done some seriously hard work and is still in use in the garage. A worthwhile appliance to clean out the car after drilling holes etc etc.
I recon I put in 3-400 rivets, and thats a lot of holes (swarf), regardless of any filing etc etc.
I used my Enging crane to lift the front then the back off the table. You will be amazed how heavy it gets!
Just my 2d's worth.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Toprivetguns
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posted on 27/6/12 at 11:11 PM |
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I wish I had built a re-inforced wood table with rated castors for the weight.
Would of made pushing the car so much easier around my garage.
I currently have it on x2 300kg rated self-made ally trestles and its a pain craning it off.
Id definitely build something special out of wood, as long as its re-inforced properly it will be fine.
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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daviep
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posted on 27/6/12 at 11:21 PM |
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The longer mine sat in the garage the more precarious it became, nothing to do with it getting heavier I kept needing to use what ever it was sitting
on for something else.
It eneded up fully built with the front supported by a ropey looking kitchen stool and the back on two supermarket kick steps
It also sat on a pair of Ikea trestles for a while which were only meant to be good for 50kgs, pretty sure you'll be safe with your trestles
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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Canada EH!
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posted on 27/6/12 at 11:59 PM |
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Mine is sitting on two saw horses (trestles) with engine transmission and differential installed as well as suspension. I learned this trick while
working on CanAm and Formula 5000 cars. When complete the car is lifted off the stands with an engine crane.
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Padstar
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posted on 28/6/12 at 08:50 AM |
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So would joining 2 trestle stands together and mounting on casters be the best option?
Like the idea of being able to move it arround.
Would the casters and moving cause line and level issues?
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Padstar
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posted on 28/6/12 at 08:51 AM |
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When the transition is in can the rear be lifted by hand if the front is supported by an engine crane?
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Peteff
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posted on 28/6/12 at 09:07 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Padstar
When the transition is in can the rear be lifted by hand if the front is supported by an engine crane?
Yes if you are this guy.
My car stands on some pieces of 4x2 balanced centrally on a supermarket bread trolley and can be moved sideways or spun around on the spot.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Slater
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posted on 28/6/12 at 09:44 AM |
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I did it like this with an engine crane with extandable legs.
............but then found the chassis landed on the cranes legs before the wheels hit the ground!!!!!!
Sorted by some big wooden blocks to land the chassis onto.
[Edited on 28/6/12 by Slater]
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
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Hellfire
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posted on 28/6/12 at 01:44 PM |
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Ours was built on stacked milk crates. As the weight increased, the height was reduced by removing a crate. The crates were given back to the milkman
once the car was on the ground.
Phil
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Padstar
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posted on 30/6/12 at 10:43 PM |
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I guess the engine is the heaviest single item. If I have it stored in my garage and want to move are they light enough that they can be manhandled
about by 2 people? How much does your normal 1.8 duratec weigh?
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matt_gsxr
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posted on 30/6/12 at 11:32 PM |
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I built up suspension wheels etc (and bike engine) and popped on wheels whilst on home made (wooden) saw-horse structures.
2 blokes can easily lift and lower/drop from that height (another to remove the sawhorse), although an engine crane would be more civilised.
You can fit a bike engine without an engine crane, but I wouldn't consider a duratec+gearbox without a crane. You might be able to do it with
two people if you lower the chassis over the engine. You can move (drag, lift a few inches) a car engine around with a couple of people.
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Padstar
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posted on 2/7/12 at 12:30 PM |
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Picked up a broken MX5 at the weekend. All was moveable with 2 people but the engine/gearbox was HEAVY! Now suffering from a stiff back today as a
result. Crane next time i think.
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