James
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| posted on 22/10/05 at 11:31 PM |
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Water Leak- Tin Top
Thought this might be relevent to Locost as well so put it here. Sorry for the long explanation.
I've finally got my MK2 Golf back together after the head gasket failure and fired it up for 1st time this afternoon. All appeared hunky dory
then noticed a water leak. 
It's at the join between the cylinder head and the plastic piece that the water outlet pipe connects too. The plastic piece has a flange that
bolts to the side of the head.
The flange has a rubber ring/gasket set into it. I've renewed the rubber ring when rebuilding the head.
The problem is the aluminium face of the head has corroded and cleaning up the head has removed the corroded material and left pitting in the face
that the flange bolts to. The pitting is deep enough that the rubber ring/gasket is leaking.
Short of removing the head again and getting the flange face milled flat what can I do?
Is the solution to buy a liquid gasket type stuff (Hermetite or similar?) and effectively fill the pitting with this by making a new/thicker
gasket?
Will is survive the heat/pressure?
Thanks for any advice!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 12:15 AM |
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black silicone sealer....just dont get it on yr hands
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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fatfranky
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 02:23 AM |
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James
I would use good old silicone too, but if you're really fussy older ie. MK1 golfs used an aluminium elbow with a paper gasket, you could use
these if required.
Hope this helps
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 09:01 AM |
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Go with the silicone, just make sure you wear gloves. How did you get the ink off Conrod?
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pajsh
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 09:15 AM |
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Worth just checking around the bolt holes on the flange face.
I had a similar problem on my Mk2 Scirocco and there was a hairline crack from inside the bolt holes hole through to the inside of the pipe.
I bought a new plastic part c/w seaing ring and that cured it.
Just a thought.
[Edited on 23/10/05 by pajsh]
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Danozeman
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 09:25 AM |
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Id go the silicon route. good stuff.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 09:55 AM |
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Nero cam be a bit iffy ---- better CD burners than Nero are available off the net for free --- one of my clients who burnd CD a lot put me wise
to CDBurnerXP Pro ( http://www.cdburnerxp.se/ ) which really impressed me.
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G.Man
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 10:00 AM |
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JB Weld can build up the metal and be heat resistant...
Its a metal epoxy, the best there is...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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Ketchup
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| posted on 23/10/05 at 05:35 PM |
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JB weld, saved my ass more than once
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James
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| posted on 25/10/05 at 03:17 PM |
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Okay, well popped into Halfords on Sunday on the way back from Walton Mountain beauty spot.
Bought myself some Hermetite Orange Silicon Sealer. Spent ages cleaning it all up with brake cleaner before applying it.
Left it to cure for a couple of hours. Ran it at fast idle for 10-20 mins and all appears fine.
Thank you for the suggestions everybody.
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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ned
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| posted on 25/10/05 at 03:42 PM |
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well done james - but what is british trident on about cd burners for!?
beware, I've got yellow skin
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James
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| posted on 25/10/05 at 04:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ned
well done james -
Pity the oil's still going the colour of Baileys!
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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