dave dickson
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posted on 5/11/05 at 05:32 PM |
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Problem with everyday car
I have recently bought a 95 405 td estate as a load-lugger/towcar/runnabout and all is well except the heater doesnt work. the blower motor is fine,
the aircon works fine, the recirculate button works fine, but no matter what, it wont blow hot air, just cold air, no matter what temp the engine is
at.
My 405 haynes manual doesnt cover later models, which seemingly have some kind of electronic control for the heating.
Anyone got any suggestions?
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theconrodkid
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posted on 5/11/05 at 05:36 PM |
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they do suffer from air locks,if its not that the valve could be seized up,have the same/similar system on BMW,s,they look like smal solenoids with
hoses going to them,try by-passing the valve block
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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gazza285
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posted on 5/11/05 at 05:40 PM |
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Had a few Courier vans like that. I'd find the electric valve thingy and pull off the top cover and wind the valve out manually with a pair of
pliers. Only trouble then is you need to set the temperature before you get in the motor as fine (or indeed any) adjustments are not an option once
rolling. I did price up a new valve but these nearly exceeded the worth of the van.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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dave dickson
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posted on 5/11/05 at 05:48 PM |
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Thanks guys. Looks like the dash is comoing to bits tomorrow then
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gazza285
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posted on 5/11/05 at 06:15 PM |
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It's usually on the engine side of the bukhead before you rip out the interior.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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mark chandler
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posted on 5/11/05 at 10:28 PM |
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I had one with the same problem, pulled the pipes off to the heater rad from under the bonnet and backflushed, poured loads of radiator cleaner in it
and left it overnight.
Flushed through the next day and got loads more rubbish out... perfect after that. If its not an airblock then its probally just silted up.
Regards Mark
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scotty g
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posted on 6/11/05 at 10:45 AM |
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I had a 205 with same problem that turned out to be the mother of all air locks.
Luckily there were a few bleed valves scattered about the system but it still took about 6 hours.
Bloody thing!
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Danozeman
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posted on 6/11/05 at 11:28 AM |
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Sounds like either that valve thingy or the matrix blocked. Try pulling the outlet hose of the matrix and see what comes out. The pipes are on the
engine side of the bulkhead.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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RoadkillUK
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posted on 6/11/05 at 01:04 PM |
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I had the same problem with mine, I sold it in the summer
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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Peteff
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posted on 6/11/05 at 01:36 PM |
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If it's ever had radweld in it the matrix will be gobbed up.Jubilee clip a hose to one end and connect it to the water mains to blow it
through.
P.S. Don't do it in the kitchen as it has some very brown sludge in there and will travel great distances causing redecoration.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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rusty nuts
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posted on 6/11/05 at 02:02 PM |
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How do you know that Pete? .As already suggested try flushing first as it's a fairly big job to replace the matrix and may require the aircon to
be depressurised?
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dave dickson
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posted on 6/11/05 at 04:21 PM |
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I had a look today. Turns out the matrix had been bypassed where the hoses go through the bulkhead, so I re-did the plumbing correctly - The result
was lovely warm air from the heater and a not-so-lovely paddling pool of coolant in the footwell.
poo.
The correct way to remove the matrix involves taking out most of the dash, dismounting the heater etc. They must be smoking crack if they think
Im doing all that on a £150 car.
The fast way to remove the matrix is to take the glovebox out and use an angle-grinder to remove some relatively unimportant parts of the under
dash structure, which allows the matrix to be undone and slid into the passenger footwell.
There was no way I was going to repeat the same process in the scrappy to retrieve a used matrix that might be dud too, so I had a look at the one I
had. I pressurised it with an airline and submerged it in water to find the leak. It was just a wee pin-hole so I cut away the alloy fins to get at
the relevant section, siliconed the hole and used a wee jubilee clip to clamp a bit of rubber tubing around the damaged section.
Its all back together now and seems to be working fine!
Bodger?
Me?
What are you implying?
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gazza285
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posted on 6/11/05 at 05:42 PM |
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Tidy.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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