NigeEss
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| posted on 25/7/06 at 11:28 PM |
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Locost Landy Suspension
I suppose this should really be in the "Anything Else" section, but
what I'm after is truly Locost.
I want to achieve serious suspension travel on my 90 and definately do not
to spend the grand or so that after market people charge.
So does any one have info to build my own, ie spring length, shock length, design
for extended shock mounts, and to take things to the limit, dims for a 3 link front setup.
I intend to fabricate cranked trailing arms from 1'4" wall CDS and assume it's best to
set the angle such that there is more droop travel than lift.
I'm undecided as to use rose joints on the trailing arms as the ride over the rough
stuff may be bl**dy harsh.
If anyone can help I'd be seriously grateful.
Cheers,
Nige
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02GF74
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 07:22 AM |
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join and then post on http://forums.lr4x4.com/
there are folks on there that would know all this. I canlt help - I'm on leaf springs
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Lawnmower
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 10:30 AM |
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1k for a lift!!!!!
You can get a 2" lift kit (extended shock and spring for about £200 - 250.
Guess if you want somthing more than that though, then serious fabriction is needed, but why?
A 90 already has excellant approach and departure angles, and the breakover angle is pretty goo, a basic lift will get you sorted, yeah you could go
for a 6" lift, but you will just be more unstable, and your axle diffs will still only be 6" from the ground!
Spend the money on some Simex tyres and cut your bodywork away.
There was a 90 at last years LRO show where the floor was about shoulder height! looked nice, but I reckon it was very unstable.
or get a unimog.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 11:29 AM |
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Your droop will be restricted by the rubber donuts in the chassis and prop angle on the rear.
For Locost on the rear the standard ball joint is fine, you will need to replicate the trailing arm mounting on the axle on the chassis and move all
the axle brackets so the diff points towards the gearbox, not below. Cut these off and reweld 1/2" further around the axle (includes ball joint
mount)
For the front the axle the same chassis limitaionations apply, the diff position is okay but you will need to twist the ball joints to miantain the
KPI so cut off the flanges and reweld.
Then just long springs, shocks, redo the brake lines and enjoy having just ruined the on-road and off-road performance.
If you want it higher its cheaper and easier to stick on some really big wheels.
Regards Mark
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NigeEss
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 11:41 AM |
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Thanks fellas,
but....
quote:
Originally posted by Lawnmower
you could go for a 6" lift, but you will just be more unstable, and your axle diffs will still only be 6" from the ground!
I don't particularly want to lift at all, esp not 6" due to the obvious screwing up of
the stability and on road manners.
What I want to achieve is more droop travel for cross axle situations.
Mark, I was proposing to make cranked radius arms to give the bushes an easier time, just need to work an angle out.
Cheers, Nige
[Edited on 26/7/06 by NigeEss]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 11:56 AM |
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In that case, lose the standard shocks for some procomp 2" extended, around £30 each if you source correctly.
Lose the dounuts on the chassis for bushes (have a peak at the chassis on a Disco II).
Drop the brakes lines a bit or fit longer or they will snag on full lock.
The springs may try and fall out, so you will need to fasten at the top or fit location cones.
Job done.
[Edited on 26/7/06 by mark chandler]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 26/7/06 at 12:00 PM |
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nb/ should add I raced landrovers for years, if you do not go mad with ride height I would not bother about KPI on the front axle, when you twist
going slow its makes no difference.
What you may want to do is sleeve the steering rods with 1" gas pipe as these bend easily. No need to buy expensive rods.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 26/7/06 by mark chandler]
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