David Jenkins
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posted on 28/2/09 at 07:16 PM |
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Arrgh! Broke down - then it worked again... (Sorted - I think)
Wife and I decided to go out for a run today, as I'd hardly had a chance to get the car out since Christmas. Got 3 or 4 miles up the road when
everything died - engine would turn over easily, but no go. Nothing obvious wrong, so got recovered back home.
Tried every obvious thing, and found that I had no sparks. All my ignition system's fuses were good, I had 12v everywhere I should, and all my
earths were clean and tight. I changed the EDIS unit as I had a spare - still no go. Wouldn't even run in 'limp-home' mode with the
Megajolt unplugged.
In the end, I poked & pushed everything and tried again - and it started! Did a few laps of the village to see if it would happen again, but it
continued to run. All the connectors seem clean and tight, so no clues.
Now I don't trust it for long journeys - I HATE intermittent faults!!!
[Edited on 14/3/09 by David Jenkins]
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dogwood
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posted on 28/2/09 at 07:24 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by David Jenkins
I HATE intermittent faults!!!
I know exactly what you mean.. You never know wh....................
........................
The only thing I can sugges........................
..............
then it will never happen aga..............
Davi..........
FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!
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omega0684
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posted on 28/2/09 at 07:43 PM |
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sounds like knackered coil pack? or vr sensor is not sending signal to edis?
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whitestu
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posted on 28/2/09 at 08:07 PM |
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Mine did this - turned out to be a bad earth. I actually think the root cause is going out with the wife in the car as mine has never missed a beat
other than when I persuaded my mrs to go for a drive with me.
Stu
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David Jenkins
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posted on 28/2/09 at 08:36 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by omega0684
sounds like knackered coil pack? or vr sensor is not sending signal to edis?
It's running like a dream now...
All the earths are good, clean and tightly fastened...
The current suspect is the roll-over switch (or whatever it's called). It was the last thing I poked and waggled before it started working
again, although it was still set in the 'on' position.
It was my wife who suggested going out for a run!
[Edited on 28/2/09 by David Jenkins]
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RichardK
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posted on 28/2/09 at 09:12 PM |
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As you say you had no sparks and 12v everywhere you should, my money would be on a dodgy vr connector or sensor.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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smart51
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posted on 28/2/09 at 10:05 PM |
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Sounds like it could be the classic of all ECU problems. A dodgy connection. Unplug it. Replace it with a new part. It works. send the old one
back. No Fault Found. The very act of unplugging something and plugging it back in again cleans up the contacts and it works.
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paulf
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posted on 28/2/09 at 10:38 PM |
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I once had a similiar problem, it eventually turned out to be because I had used a diode circuit to get the rev counter signal from the coil lt
connections.It seems that the diodes I used were breaking down when warm and killing the spark.
Paul
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BenB
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posted on 28/2/09 at 11:05 PM |
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I had something similar once. Turned out to be water in one of the connections. Not sure which. Gave all the terminals a little WD40 action and it
fired into action shortly afterwards.....
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David Jenkins
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posted on 1/3/09 at 09:11 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by smart51
The very act of unplugging something and plugging it back in again cleans up the contacts and it works.
Almost certainly my problem - due to the weather + family commitments the car has hardly been used for the last 3 or 4 months.
I have a number of relays behind the dash that are used for the security system and for the roll-over switch - unless everything is right
there's no power to the fuel pump or ignition. That was the last area I was fiddling with before the car was able to start again.
I think I'll have to get the dash off and undo/remake all the connectors a few times - I've got a couple of jobs that need doing in there
anyway, so I might as well get on with it.
[Edited on 1/3/09 by David Jenkins]
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stevebubs
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posted on 1/3/09 at 09:22 AM |
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Are you still running an xflow?
If so, have you checked the points gap?
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rusty nuts
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posted on 1/3/09 at 10:31 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevebubs
Are you still running an xflow?
If so, have you checked the points gap?
Think the words Edis and Megajolt may be a clue .
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David Jenkins
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posted on 1/3/09 at 01:11 PM |
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The points gap is perfect - but the dizzy's in a box in the garage!
[Edited on 1/3/09 by David Jenkins]
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MautoK
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posted on 1/3/09 at 04:08 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by whitestu
Mine did this - turned out to be a bad earth. I actually think the root cause is going out with the wife in the car as mine has never missed a beat
other than when I persuaded my mrs to go for a drive with me.
Stu
He's whittling on a piece of wood. I got a feeling that when he stops whittling, something's gonna happen. (OUATITW/Cheyenne)
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David Jenkins
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posted on 14/3/09 at 04:45 PM |
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Well, I had the ideal situation today - this fault inspired me to remove the dashboard and do the wiring re-arrangements I've been meaning to do
for yonks. After putting it all back together last night, I rolled the car out of the garage this morning and tried to start it - no go again. A
CONSISTENT FAULT CONDITION! Whoopie! This time, I had all my test gear and tools handy, so I was able to test it properly.
There was no power on the feed to my EDIS and Megajolt, but the starter turned over when I pushed the start button (that was what I added this week).
The solenoid and start button is fed from a point very close to the EDIS feed so, weighing up the evidence, it could only have been one thing - a
relay in my immobiliser circuit. After replacing it, the car started and continued to run during a 20-mile blat.
Now - can anyone suggest a source of manufacturer-quality relays, rather than the general-purpose dodgy ones usually offered by kit car electrical
suppliers? With the standard pin layout, of course!
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omega 24 v6
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posted on 14/3/09 at 06:25 PM |
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quote:
Now - can anyone suggest a source of manufacturer-quality relays, rather than the general-purpose dodgy ones usually offered by kit car electrical
suppliers? With the standard pin layout, of course!
Hella or Bosch. Both in use in many std car configurations/fuseboards. Although you may only find them in older type vehicles as many are now changing
to the small "mini relays"
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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DIY Si
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posted on 14/3/09 at 06:44 PM |
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I get most of my relays from scrap yards. Nice OEM versions, which also tend to be a bit more waterproof than the aftermarket stuff. They may or may
not fit in an inside jacket pocket.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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