907
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posted on 17/7/11 at 08:19 PM |
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Shortening a two post lift?
Hi All.
Theoretically speaking, do we think it's possible to reduce the height of a 2 post lift?
I'm wondering that since my garage roof is only 1.92 mts high and slopes up to 2.02 mts the other side,
if a two poster could be cut to fit?
Possibly cut the width as well as it's only 2.3 mts wide.
I assume that they are normally a bit bigger than this.
I realize that this would limit the height I could raise the car but it would get it up to a better work level.
It would save my poor old back no end when I do all that pre-IVA polishing.
Cheers,
Paul G
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rusty nuts
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posted on 17/7/11 at 08:50 PM |
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Wouldn't you be better off with a scissor lift if you can get one Paul? Could be sunk into the floor so it's level and wouldn't take
up any space , also you could limit the raised height to miss your roof . If you have to shortening a 2 poster it would be possible with a chain type
if you can machine the lifting screws and cut off the top plate from the pillars and rewelding. Not sure insurance company would like it though?
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907
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posted on 17/7/11 at 09:54 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by rusty nuts
Wouldn't you be better off with a scissor lift if you can get one Paul? Could be sunk into the floor so it's level and wouldn't take
up any space , also you could limit the raised height to miss your roof . If you have to shortening a 2 poster it would be possible with a chain type
if you can machine the lifting screws and cut off the top plate from the pillars and rewelding. Not sure insurance company would like it though?
So what are the chain types like then Mel?
Any makes that I could Google?
Am I right in thinking that the others are the ones with motors on the top, with what looks like
gears or short chain and sprockets driving what I assume is a large vertical acme thread. ???
Cheers,
Paul G
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Chippy
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posted on 17/7/11 at 10:05 PM |
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Paul, having seen some of your work, I am pretty sure that modifying a two poster would not be beyond you. :-) Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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907
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posted on 18/7/11 at 07:07 AM |
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Ray.
Having seen the standard of welding on a 2t engine hoist that I borrowed once
I haven't much to live up to.
Cheers,
Paul G
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rusty nuts
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posted on 18/7/11 at 06:41 PM |
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The chain types normally have the motor at the top of the column with a belt and pulley system driving a threaded (probably Acme) shaft that has a
bearing top and bottom and a carriage with arms attached which rises or lowers when the shaft turns . At the bottom of the column there is a sprocket
driving a chain which in turn drives a sprocket on the none motor column which also has a carriage . Both carriages should rise at the same rate and
be level with each other. The lifting nuts tend to wear if not looked after and should be inspected regularly as should the safety nuts. Some
variations use a horizontal shaft with bevel gears instead of a chain and some use hydraulics . Not a great fan of the hydraulic type due to some not
lifting evenly. I use to have a semi portable lift that would go right under the car and would lift to about 6feet , not that I needed it to go that
high, something like that may suit you?
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fazerruss
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posted on 18/7/11 at 07:45 PM |
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A lift could be shortend but not easy. The biggest headache i could see would be shortening the screws as they are the tallest part of the lift (on
mine anyway). You would need someone with a bloody big lathe to remachine the ends to refit the drive pulleys or sprockets depending on which end you
cut. Then you would need to move the upper limit switch and skew switch lower down the post.
reducing the width would be an easier task just cut n shut the base with a bit of welding and shorten the drive chain.
My lift btw is a werther 255 screw lift.
"if assholes could fly this place would be an airport"
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907
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posted on 18/7/11 at 09:23 PM |
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Cheers Mel,
and
Cheers Fazerruss.
Both very useful posts.
I have the use of a big lathe so any turning isn't a problem.
I have Google'd the Werther 255 and downloaded a pic.
Thanks again,
Paul G
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macc man
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posted on 18/7/11 at 09:45 PM |
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A guy near me has a 4 post lift in his garage at home that has been sunk into the floor to give him the clearance from the roof.
this might be the answer rather than changing the machine to suit.
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907
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posted on 19/7/11 at 04:33 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by macc man
A guy near me has a 4 post lift in his garage at home that has been sunk into the floor to give him the clearance from the roof.
this might be the answer rather than changing the machine to suit.
I'm not 100% sure of the height of one of these lifts but I think they lift to about 1.8 mts so you can walk
under the car. I think that it makes the height of the posts about 2.8 mts.
As I have 2 mts floor to roof that would involve sinking it 800mm. A tad to much I feel, but I may well be wrong.
If I can get a Seven 900mm off the deck I will be more than happy.
Cheers,
Paul G
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britishtrident
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posted on 19/7/11 at 05:20 PM |
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You don't need to shorten the lift just move the upper limit switch down.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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907
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posted on 20/7/11 at 07:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by britishtrident
You don't need to shorten the lift just move the upper limit switch down.
I think you have got hold of the wrong end of the stick BT.
I wish to fit a large (ish) object in a small (ish) garage.
The smallest I've found so far is 2880mm high.
Cheers,
Paul G
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HowardB
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posted on 20/7/11 at 08:30 PM |
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I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...
how about raising the roof?
Might not be an option, but, just a thought?
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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britishtrident
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posted on 20/7/11 at 08:32 PM |
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Think about it
Vertical height required = lift height + the height of the vehicle and for conventional ramp, even for a Seven style car that is
going to be a minimum of 3000mm, for a tintop 40000mm
Lowest you will find are the old Laycock Coronation 4 post chain drive lifts they lift the underside of the car to about 1.7 m off the deck so
the roof height required is about 2.5 m for a locost 3.5 for a tintop.
Even the Corination lift was a a paine in the neck to use even for my 5ft 8" --- to make ours usable we had to dig a shallow (18"
pit below the ramp.
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oadamo
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posted on 20/7/11 at 09:05 PM |
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if you buy the cheap hydraulic lifts off ebay all you have to do is cut the channels down that the hydraulics run in,alot of work but can be down with
a few slitting discs. and take a few links out of the chains to the size you need. the pain in the ass part is getting the wires shortened you need
to get the ends crimped back on. because when you cut the old ones off you cant reuse them.
and if you use a brace on the top to stop them folding in with the weight and make some support legs you dont even need to bolt them down
adam
oh and make sure you put the limit switch back in the right place or when you take the ramps up you will smash it off lol.
[Edited on 20/7/11 by oadamo]
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mark chandler
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posted on 20/7/11 at 09:44 PM |
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Get something like this and sink into the ground
Hydraulic Table Cart 500kg | eBay
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907
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posted on 20/7/11 at 10:28 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mark chandler
Get something like this and sink into the ground
Hydraulic Table Cart 500kg | eBay
Thanks for the link Mark but reading further down the add it says:-
quote
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Specification
Lift 500lbs ( ? lbs = typo ? )
Min height 265mm
Max height 735mm
-----------------------------
I make that a lift of 470mm. Idealy I'd like double that, and as my car weighs 640kgs I'd want a lift of at least a tonne.
Thanks for the reply anyway as ALL sugestions and alternatives are welcome.
Anything that gets me thinking has got to be good.
Cheers,
Paul G
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907
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posted on 20/7/11 at 10:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by oadamo
if you buy the cheap hydraulic lifts off ebay all you have to do is cut the channels down that the hydraulics run in,alot of work but can be down with
a few slitting discs. and take a few links out of the chains to the size you need. the pain in the ass part is getting the wires shortened you need
to get the ends crimped back on. because when you cut the old ones off you cant reuse them.
and if you use a brace on the top to stop them folding in with the weight and make some support legs you dont even need to bolt them down
adam
oh and make sure you put the limit switch back in the right place or when you take the ramps up you will smash it off lol.
[Edited on 20/7/11 by oadamo]
Cheers Adam, some food for thought there.
I take it that the hydraulic lifts have a ram that pulls on steel cables then,
instead of the vertical screws & chain across the bottom that the others have.
I like the idea of changing the feet and bracing the top. Several cms could be gained there.
Gets the channels back closer to the walls.
Cheers,
Paul G
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907
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posted on 20/7/11 at 10:59 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by HowardB
I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...
how about raising the roof?
Might not be an option, but, just a thought?
Hi Howard,
I did think of two vetical ducts, like chimneys, for the lift posts to sit inside.
I would still have to alter the width though.
Cheers,
Paul G
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britishtrident
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posted on 21/7/11 at 06:53 AM |
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High lift pallet truck have been used by Locosters before they are quite cheap and can be found up to 1.5 ton capcity, however you will need to lift
exactly under cg and will need 4 tall stands for safe working.
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HowardB
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posted on 21/7/11 at 07:15 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by 907
quote: Originally posted by HowardB
I am sure that the thought has crossed your mind, but,...
how about raising the roof?
Might not be an option, but, just a thought?
Hi Howard,
I did think of two vetical ducts, like chimneys, for the lift posts to sit inside.
I would still have to alter the width though.
Cheers,
Paul G
All in jest, but it reminds me of the Thora Hurd story, where some cowboy fixers mended her Stannah Stairlift,...
She went through the roof!!
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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zilspeed
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posted on 21/7/11 at 08:13 AM |
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A pal of mine has a pit and a hydraulic lift.
One of the timbers over the pit is replaced with a steel channel, the two rams are in the pit.
In the pit there is a hydraulic valve block and tank and a power steering pump powered by a single phase motor.
All of this stuff is wombled.
You park the lifting point of the car over the steel channel, fire up the motor, pull the lever and the car gets lifted to as much as you want.
Two channels and four rams would be a small addition.
When not in use, it takes up zero floor space and you couldn't even trip on it if you wanted to.
Wombling these things together is perfectly possible.
I'll video it some time and post a link.
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Irony
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posted on 21/7/11 at 08:27 AM |
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Why don't get something like this
AIR OPERATED CAR RAMP WAIST HEIGHT | eBay
I would love one but its a extra cost. If you search 'car scissor lift' on google it brings lots of options.
We had a bespoke one built for a exhibition we designed/built. It was compressed air powered by a 25l silent aircompressor. Went up and down almost
silently. Really cool. Some of you guys might have seen it at the Gadget Show. It had a VW Polo Bluemotion going up and down on it.
[Edited on 21/7/11 by Irony]
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907
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posted on 21/7/11 at 07:18 PM |
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Hi All. Thanks for all the replies so far.
The pallet truck needs the room to manoeuvre it under the car so you need a garage a lot wider than the car.
I see the disadvantages of the pallet truck, the scissor lift, and the scissor ramp as twofold. Firstly, they block
working on the underside of the car to a greater or lesser degree, and secondly, what do you do with them
if you need the floor space for another job?
I keep coming back to a two post lift, with the posts mounted "in the walls" and the arms folded back against
the walls when not in use.
In the top pic below there's nothing on the underside of that car that you can't get to.
The problem is in the second pic. Those dims don't match my garage and a bit of cut & shut would be needed.
Maybe easier, for me anyway, than digging up the concrete floor to create a sunken area.
There are several items in that floor that I wouldn't want to have to get out. The rear end of a Sierra for one.
Cheers everyone,
Paul G
2 post lift dims
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britishtrident
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posted on 21/7/11 at 07:34 PM |
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Lot of money for at most 1 metre clear of the deck --- invest in a couple of high lift jacks and high stands
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