andyjack
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 12:03 AM |
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can I do it??????????
Hi guys.
This is my first post on here so may I start by saying what a great forum this is.
Right straight to business, I have dabbled with cars for a good few years biggest jobs being gear box/clutch and cylinder head on a capri, that said I
have done hundreds of smaller jobs ball joints etc on various cars.
My simple question is if I buy a chassis pre built, as I have no welding skills, knowing the above jobs I have done in the past, do you think I am up
to building a low cost car?
I know it is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string question" but I have realy no idea of what is involved as I havnt even read the
book yet. Typical potential low cost builder, wont spend the money on the book in case it is wasted. 
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Metal Hippy
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 03:10 AM |
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Short answer is a definite yes.
If you can mess about with cars you can obviously use your hands. Therefore you'll deffo be able to build a Locost type car.
If there's anything you're not sure about there's an abundance of people (not all imbeciles) that can help you on here.
As for the imbeciles, you all know who I am... No wait...
Cock off or cock on. You choose.
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Rorty
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 04:18 AM |
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I resemble that statement!
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Sideways 2 Victory
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 07:52 AM |
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It might be worth considering buying a part finished build, good VFM but you need to be careful that the workmanship is ok.
Tinkering with old 'frauds was how I got into this so youre ok by me!
Time is the thing I've found most difficult as there is always someone on here willing to help you if you get stuck technically.
Go for it.
Dave
www.nurburgring.org
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 07:57 AM |
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Andy,
I'd only ever done minor maintenance on cars before starting my Locost. The only mechanical thing other than that was to make a 5" gauge
model steam engine!
I'd guess that you will need:
1. Reasonable manual skills (can take things to bits and put them back together afterwards).
2. Something useful between the ears - common-sense, mostly.
3. Patience.
4. A garage or workshop that you can use for a long period, with light and power (although people have managed without).
5. Welding kit (MIG most common, but some have used oxy-acetylene)
6. Realistic expectations of budget and time.
7. A sympathetic partner (if relevant)
If it all seems OK, go for it!
David
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andyjack
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 11:15 AM |
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thanks
Thanks for the vote of confidence guys. I posses all of the above on davids list exept number 5.
Mig welders are fairly inexpensive especialy second hand so purchasing one wouldnt be a problem. The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin
"considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 11:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyjack
The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin "considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable
standard?
Certainly!
Most MIG units will do for a Locost build, but the more money you spend the easier it gets, generally speaking (better duty cycle, better motors and
controls, etc.).
Get real gas (Argon/CO2 mix).
Get decent protective gear (helmet, gloves, overalls).
Get a heap of scrap and practice a lot, until your weld look nice and survive a severe beating with a 2lb lump hammer. Saw across a few welds to see
that the weld has good penetration (weld is right through the metal).
Ideally, get a skilled welder to help you to learn, and to set up your MIG (I reckon 95% of the skill is getting the voltage and wire speed settings
correct!)
Good luck,
David
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ned
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 11:38 AM |
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i would answer yes to your question. (I don't intend to build my own chassis, I want to save time and buy an MK. )
I learnt to weld a few years back at college and built a pedal kart. Hardly a locost I know but looking at the standard of welding I got to in a short
space of time and whats needed for a solid chassis (structurally, smart asses) I think its not going to be a problem for you.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 11:38 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyjack
The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin "considering Davids list" pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable
standard?
Certainly!
Most MIG units will do for a Locost build, but the more money you spend the easier it gets, generally speaking (better duty cycle, better motors and
controls, etc.).
Get real gas (Argon/CO2 mix).
Get decent protective gear (helmet, gloves, overalls).
Get a heap of scrap and practice a lot, until your weld look nice and survive a severe beating with a 2lb lump hammer. Saw across a few welds to see
that the weld has good penetration (weld is right through the metal).
Ideally, get a skilled welder to help you to learn, and to set up your MIG (I reckon 95% of the skill is getting the voltage and wire speed settings
correct!)
Good luck,
David
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Mix
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 02:54 PM |
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At the end of the day the only person who can answer your question is you! I decided to build my own chassis so bought the MIG, did the practice and
so far things are going OK. This option was actually more expensive but I will have the MIG for future projects. Best advice is to do your research,
(here's a good place to start) and if you do decide to build your own be cautious of the lower end of the welder market.
Mick
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 02:58 PM |
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Actually, if a Locost chassis is the only reason for buying a MIG+gas+regulator, and you'll not use it much afterwards, you should seriously
consider buying a chassis.
I know that this contradicts my previous advice, but the cost of the steel + MIG + regulator + wire + gas is not far short of the cost of a chassis +
suspension arms.
Mind you, if you consider that building a chassis is part of the fun...
David
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Peteff
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 06:16 PM |
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there's an abundance of people (not all imbeciles)
I present the allegation that there may be imbeciles on this site and if I find out who the alligator is he will be severally repmiranded. Toled off.
By the way don't go for less than a 130 amp welder as some of the thicker parts will need at least this to penetrate. Bigger is better. Start
your practise on thicker stuff, that way you won't get discouraged when you blow it to pieces and work your way down to the 16g end
gradually.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Jasper
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 06:44 PM |
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And MIG's can be useful after you've finished the car - I've bought an old car trailer that needs a bit of sorting and adapting -
impossible without the MIG.
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Jasper
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 06:44 PM |
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And MIG's can be useful after you've finished the car - I've bought an old car trailer that needs a bit of sorting and adapting -
impossible without the MIG. But if I was to build another I'd buy a chassis.
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blueshift
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 07:55 PM |
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Speaking of trailers.. anyone know ballpark prices to buy or hire trailers?
the welding book I have from the library has plans to build a vehicle trailer.. I'm looking at my new MIG welder and getting ideas.. like maybe
I could build one, use it for carting the locost around for SVA and so on, then sell it for a profit? not looked into it much though.
[Edited on 8/7/03 by blueshift]
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chrisg
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 08:22 PM |
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Blueshift mate,
Those trailer plans, there not the sort of thing you could scan an send to the likes of me are they?
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 8/7/03 at 10:13 PM |
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Does a trailer have to be tested / certified before you can use it on the road ???. Must be some sort of regs governing this ?? Other wise people
would build trailers out of old scrap that fell apart on the first bump !!!!
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Rorty
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 03:46 AM |
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andyjack:
quote:
The $2000 question is, can a welding virgin pick up a mig torch and with practice weld to an acceptable standard?
It's as easy as drawing with a big felt-tip pen. If the weld doesn't look right, then it probably isn't. Just keep
"drawing" until it looks good.
An automatic helmet (the lense darkens automatically) is esential for safety and confident welding. They've become quite cheap now too.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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steve m
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 04:53 AM |
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Blueshift, if the plans are available could i have a set ??
steve
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 09:02 AM |
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Trailers are legally required to be fitted with a plate showing the manufacturer, gross weight, max load, and so on.
Incidentally, the towbar is also required to have a plate showing max load, etc.
I haven't got my indespension catalogue to hand (it's at home) but their website may have details. The cat cetainly goes into a lot of
detail.
http://www.indespension.com/home.htm
Also Towsure
http://www.towsure.co.uk/
cheers,
David
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ned
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 09:42 AM |
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yeah, but surely you could rebuild an old trailer, much like people do duttons, then you wouldn't need the plates?! You don't even need a
v5 to 'rebuild' a trailer!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 09:47 AM |
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Trouble is, you might encounter a policeman when he's at 'the wrong time of the month' - if he's in the mood to nick someone,
it won't matter how trivial the fault is.
There's nothing to stop you making your own trailer plate, anyway - there's no legal aspect to it (as long as you don't load the
trailer higher than your declared max!). I guess that the max load can be taken from the suspension unit ratings.
Mind you, my little trailer has a plate - it's sitting on my bench, waiting to be glued back on (and has been for 12 months  )
David
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Peteff
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 10:11 AM |
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An automatic helmet (the lense darkens automatically) is esential for safety and confident welding. They've become quite cheap now too
Where are these things cheap, get me one. I haven't seen them less than £140 in U.K.
I've built a few trailers for friends and usually make them as simple as possible to keep weight down. I had an old Towsure parts catalogue
that had plans in it for bike, car and boat trailers. The last one I built was an allotment transport for rotovators etc. and used 1/2 ton
indespension units from http://www.northerntooluk.com/default.asp?C1=Trailer+Parts&offset=10
Loads cheaper than Towsure and good quality stuff.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 10:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Where are these things cheap, get me one.
I saw a nice helmet in my local BOC shop a week ago - quite a large window,and seemed well-made. £90-ish, plus VAT I guess.
That's about the cheapest I've seen lately.
DJ
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blueshift
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| posted on 9/7/03 at 01:09 PM |
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For seeing what I'm doing welding I've used my friend's 2x500W halogen site light from screwfix (about 20 quid) which makes the work
area bright enough to see easily through common-or-garden welding glass. Electronics would be nice but I don't have the money.
I've had another look at the trailer "plans" and they're terse to say the least. I'll try and get them scanned tonight,
though.
[Edited on 9/7/03 by blueshift]
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