locoboy
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| posted on 8/3/07 at 06:53 AM |
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406 workshop manual
Can anyone provide a link to a downloadable 406 workshop manual?
Im changing Rear disks, pads and handbrake cable this weekend and want to get it done as quickly as possible so i can carry on with the GTS 
Or has anyone got experience of doing these jobs?
Does the pug have seperate handbrake shoes that fit into a drum that is part of the whole rear disk?
ATB
Locoboy
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Johnmor
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| posted on 8/3/07 at 07:12 AM |
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406 handbrake
I dont have an online manual but i did the rear pads and discs last week on my 406 estate.
The hub of the disc acts as the drum for the rear handbrake. I did not replace the hand brake shoes but I had to cut off the discs as I found it real
hard to remove the disc/drum from the hand brake shoes.
The disc calipers are easily removed by the usual two bolt (hex head) and i found it easier to cut into the disc and then drive a cold chisel it to he
gap to expand the drum to enable it to be removed over the handbrake shoes.
As the handbrake shoes wear into the drum the shoes form a groove that means even when you release the cable the shoes will not contract enough to
enable the drum to be easily removed.
I did the whole job in a couple of hours so it not too bad.
The pins that locate the disc pads can get very coroded so be careful when you drive them out of the caliper and dont damage them.
Hope that helps.
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Mike S
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| posted on 8/3/07 at 09:16 AM |
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Wow Johnmor
Do you do a lot of handbrake turns or something?
For the handbrake shoes to wear into the drum the shoes must be binding or you are using the handbrake a lot whilst on the move.
In normal use, the handbrake is applied when the vehicle is stationary so shoe and drum wear should be negligable over years of use.
Mike
There are more horses' asses in this world than there are horses
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locoboy
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| posted on 8/3/07 at 02:44 PM |
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Usefull info John,
its a 406 estate that i have too.
I can feel the grinder coming on then !
Do the pad pins just punch out or screw out?
And do you need to screw the piston back in or does it just push back in to the calliper?
Cheers
ATB
Locoboy
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Mansfield
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| posted on 8/3/07 at 09:14 PM |
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I recently did the rear brakes on my 406.
My handbrake was virtually unusable due to the operating mechanism inside the drums being seized. A bit of a polish and a light copper greasing
solved that.
The handbrake shoes also needed replacing because the friction material was coming away from the shoe. Once you get inside the drum that is fairly
easy though. I didnt have any problems getting the drums off.
I had to replace the handbrake cable as well. This job is a pain due to two things: 1) the adjuster will be seized and 2) there is a plate that is
in your way and will need removing. Once I had rung all the bolts off holding the plate to the car I had much more access. To bolt it back upon the
car I just put a bolt through a new hole in the spare wheel well. To remove the adjuster I cut the short cable, I could then heat the adjuster on my
gas hob inside the house. It seperates easily with some heat and is quite reusable.
The pads are indeed a pain, I had to drill my pins out. I chose a drill just smaller than the pin and went in about 10mm and it punched out fairly
easily then. Not for the faint hearted though. If your pins are really badly corroded you can break them with a screwdriver/lever/chisel which does
help if they are really stuck - but you will still need to drill them out. Have a look at the new pins that you will see in the new fitting kit you
WILL need to see what the pins look like before too much butchery - it may decide your plan of attack.
I really didnt enjoy doing mine but now I know the score it would be a lot easier to do them again.
Best of luck.
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