Breaker
|
 posted on 1/12/09 at 04:12 PM |
|
|
Does someone knows there is a working linky available regarding the rust removal FAQ mentioned on the first page ?
I've got some rusty hubs waiting for some Soda bathing...
|
|
|
|
|
Angel Acevedo
|
| posted on 2/12/09 at 12:56 AM |
|
|
Linky....
What´s wrong with this one?
http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php
If you have questions I may be able to throw in some answers.
Don´t expect Scientific ones, but I´m sure i can get you going.
It is actually pretty simple stuff
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
|
|
|
40inches
|
| posted on 2/12/09 at 11:57 AM |
|
|
Addendum to the original article:
"Problems with Stainless Steel Anodes
Some thoughtful correspondents have pointed out that the use of stainless steel for the positive electrode (anode) may have some undesirable
consequences. Most stainless steels contain high percentages of chromium and nickel which may be released into the bath as the anode is slowly eaten
away. These are likely to be released initially as soluble cations just as the iron is released initially as ferrous ions. However, since all three
cations are being released into an alkaline solution, they are likely to be immediately converted to insoluble hydroxides or oxides and form
encrustations on the electrode or fall to the bottom as sediments. In this bound form the nickel and chromium are likely to be less hazardous but
nevertheless waterproof gloves should always be worn when working with the bath and the bath sludge should be disposed of appropriately. It may be
better to avoid the problem entirely by using simple iron electrodes and brushing the sludge off regularly."
|
|
|
Breaker
|
| posted on 12/5/10 at 04:18 PM |
|
|
My first front hub is almost completely electrolysed. I see there is some kind of black oxide layer appearing on the hub surface.
Should I remove the oxide layer (with some coke ) or should I just paint on the black layer ?
|
|
|
Angel Acevedo
|
| posted on 12/5/10 at 07:38 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Breaker
My first front hub is almost completely electrolysed. I see there is some kind of black oxide layer appearing on the hub surface.
Should I remove the oxide layer (with some coke ) or should I just paint on the black layer ?
Wash with scrub pad and degreaser, dry thoroughly with hairdryer or oven for a couple of hours want to drive hydrogen out.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 13/5/10 at 06:58 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Breaker
My first front hub is almost completely electrolysed. I see there is some kind of black oxide layer appearing on the hub surface.
Should I remove the oxide layer (with some coke ) or should I just paint on the black layer ?
Remove it with a wire brush, wire wool or similar. Note the surface will start rust very quickly in this condition so you need to get paint on it
quickly.
|
|
|
seventhheaven
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 09:38 PM |
|
|
electrolysis
I've been using electrolysis too. I remembered it from school 25 years ago. I found Ajax scouring powder, water and vinigar to be best.
I've experimented with washing machine tablets - ok for light rust as is normal washing powder.
I use a high current battery charger but don't let the positive clamp drip into the water! The positive clamp will soon fizz away and by morning
you'll be left with just a dangling wire. For most parts I leave them a couple hours, but I had a set of really rusty hub carriers that had been
painted over with some kind of hammerite. They took nearly 24hours to come up clean. They looked beyond saving, yet once don't they sparkled and
even the seized bolts came straight out - no effort.
click here to see my super 7th heaven locost project and more info on electrolysis
4wd 3.9 Rover V8 Locost 7 - Super 7th Heaven
|
|
|
designer
|
| posted on 16/7/11 at 03:55 PM |
|
|
quote:
My electrode is a piece of thin walled stainless tube about 5" diameter
NEVER use stainless steel as an electrode as the gases given off change, and are poisonous!!!
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 6/2/12 at 12:52 PM |
|
|
I'm thinking of using the last method on my spare Ali block. Has anyone successfully cleaned Ali with electrolysis?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
RichardK
|
| posted on 6/2/12 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
Yes, and it f&cked it
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
|
|
|
loggyboy
|
| posted on 6/2/12 at 01:46 PM |
|
|
Been trying this over the weekend. (on steel) Seems good but fairly slow.
[Edited on 6/2/12 by loggyboy]
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 6/2/12 at 03:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
I'm thinking of using the last method on my spare Ali block. Has anyone successfully cleaned Ali with electrolysis?
Doesn't work on aluminium.
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 6/2/12 at 03:26 PM |
|
|
Looks like an ideal opportunity to soda blast it now then, seeing as everything is white already!!!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
Padstar
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 05:22 PM |
|
|
The magic is not happening for me
I mixed washing soda into a large plastic box filled with water then connected a wheel hub to the native and placed in the box and the positive to a
bit of steel tube.
After about 5 hours (1 amp reading on the charger) the rust has turned black but other than that nothing else has happened?
Am I doing something wrong?
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 06:01 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Padstar
The magic is not happening for me
I mixed washing soda into a large plastic box filled with water then connected a wheel hub to the native and placed in the box and the positive to a
bit of steel tube.
After about 5 hours (1 amp reading on the charger) the rust has turned black but other than that nothing else has happened?
Am I doing something wrong?
What are you trying to derust? The wheel hub I presume? If so you have the polarity round the wrong way.. the bit you want to derust must be the
positive! And 4~5 amps is better.
I use a old laptop charger running 17v, 6 amps and its MAGIC!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Padstar
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 06:07 PM |
|
|
So the positive feed is submerged in water?
|
|
|
loggyboy
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 06:11 PM |
|
|
No the negative should be submerged with the item being derusted!
Going black sounds about right, just needs a light rub down after its gone black.
[Edited on 22/7/12 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 07:01 PM |
|
|
SORRY SORRY SORRY.. got meself mixed up.. The electrode is connected to the positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black).
Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact.
I use bolted on connections, bolted to the electrode and bolted to a pair of molegrips to get hold of the rusty bit you want to clean.
Heres a pic of mine.. big bit of plate that gets ugly pretty quickly positive bolted to this, mole grips with the negative bolted on for the part.
Check this out for more info. Just remember not to use stainless steel, it gives off poisonous gasses!
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
Looking at you post again I reckon a better supply is needed.
Sorry to mislead ya
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Padstar
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 09:30 PM |
|
|
Maybe I just need a better set up. I am currently using a car battery charger and a small peace of steel as the electrode.
Will get myself some sheet mild steel to line my box with and give it another go. How does the laptop charger work? Do you remove the socket and
connect to striped wires?
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 22/7/12 at 10:56 PM |
|
|
Caustic soda really isn't as bad as is made out here. I washed down most of an engine with concentrated lye last month with a toothbrush and
gloves. Eventually it went through my gloves and ate away a few bits of my fingers but that took over an hour of constant soaking. Stung a bit.
Wouldn't want it in my eyes, for sure. But it's healed and fine a week later.
FWIW if you're using it just keep some vinegar to hand, immediately and safely neutralises any spilled on your skin without doing further
damage.
It's all about common sense, taking obvious steps for safety (good ventilation, eye protection, ensuring you have some way of neutralising it
etc).
However, there's no need for electrolysis - it's overkill and you really is decreasing returns for increasing unpleasantness so I'd
stick with soda crystals anyway.
[Edited on 22/7/12 by coyoteboy]
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 23/7/12 at 09:06 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Padstar
Maybe I just need a better set up. I am currently using a car battery charger and a small peace of steel as the electrode.
Will get myself some sheet mild steel to line my box with and give it another go. How does the laptop charger work? Do you remove the socket and
connect to striped wires?
Yep, block connector on the wires.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Padstar
|
| posted on 23/7/12 at 12:21 PM |
|
|
If i am using a plastic box is there any issues with teh component being cleaned sitting on the bottom of teh box or does it have to be suspended in
the solution?
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 23/7/12 at 12:30 PM |
|
|
Only issue will be you won't get as much fluid movement around the part so it may not clean as effectively if it's a large flat bit. If
it's pointy you might find the tip isn't as clean but other than that, no major problem.
|
|
|
Padstar
|
| posted on 28/7/12 at 02:04 PM |
|
|
2 a4 sizes sheets of steel arrived this morning. They have been attached to the + and a mole grip to the - similar to coozers pic. Didn't know
for sure what wire from the charger was +\- but must have got them right as when I switched my new creation on the bit being cleaned started to
bobble and I could see bobbles being attracted towards my 2 steel plates. Only left it for 30mins but seems to be loosening the rust a bit. About to
head off to the beach volleyball so will give it a proper blast tomorrow.
Should it bring the piece back to its original self or just clean up and turn black thus requiring painting?
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 28/7/12 at 03:03 PM |
|
|
Excellent, it will bring the part back to OEM.. take it out and use a hose to wash all the crap off, if it isnt mint put it back in for a while..
Once rinsed it will go black but a wire brush will clean it up. I normally rinse off then go over it with the wire wheel on my grinder.
It doesnt matter how long you leave it, I normally let it go overnight.
[Edited on 28/7/12 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
