Impact301
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posted on 15/5/07 at 12:08 PM |
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Just checked the turbo shaft (should really be working, but nevermind!) and to me there dosnt seem excessive play, although its pretty hard to measure
it as theres not much room round there. The fins on the turbo spin fine with no friction, from the pic can you see anything wrong with them? There was
rather alot of dried on oil round the area, although its just under the filler cap so maybe that is just old oil that was spilled when re-filling. I
have included a couple of pics I have taken, as Im not sure what is the lubricating oil passage as the manual says it could be a leak there. Also is
there an oil feed going from the intercooler to the turbo? Theres so may pipes and bits its hard to see what is what!
Cheers.
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smac
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posted on 15/5/07 at 12:22 PM |
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There is no oil feed from the intercooler. The turbo is fed from a pipe from the block ( toward the front) this will either be the original hard
pipe or a newer flexible one if its been swapped.. The oil then drains from underneath to the sump.
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Impact301
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posted on 15/5/07 at 12:47 PM |
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Yes I see what you mean, its a hard pipe, covered in old oil. If this was blocked am I right in thinking the oil would have nowhere to go but stay in
the turbo and be burnt?
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smac
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posted on 15/5/07 at 12:54 PM |
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I suppose its possible that the drain pipe would be blocked but I very much doubt it. Its quite wide and has gravity on its side, its also below the
turbo in a comparitatively open area so it shouldnt be cooked from outside. Best candidate for blockage is the feed pipe as the original is vary
narrow which is why people swap them for the braided one.
[Edited on 15/5/07 by smac]
[Edited on 15/5/07 by smac]
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Impact301
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posted on 16/5/07 at 06:37 PM |
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Ran a compression test, and all were around 150psi, none were under and all were roughly the same. So I guess that rules out valve stem seals, or head
gasket, so I'll try taking off and cleaning the oil feed pipe to the turbo (easier said than done as it looks a nightmare to get to) and see if
that makes any difference. If not then its looking likely to be turbo seals. Thanks for the help. Nick.
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NS Dev
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posted on 16/5/07 at 07:00 PM |
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compression test won't show up stem seals, only rings. The stem seals could still be the issue, but its more likely turbo.
What mileage has the turbo done? They usually need recon or replacement at 120,000 miles tops on these.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Impact301
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posted on 16/5/07 at 10:15 PM |
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Current turbo has done 86K, and have been told their life depends if they have been left to cool after being used hard, and I dont know much about the
history so I dont know if it has or not. Also I dont know if the current turbo was a refirbished one or just a replacement second hand one. I'll
try the oil feed pipe, then if its still the same run the car for a pre-MOT test before attacking the turbo as its a pretty big job. Knowing my luck,
I'll get it running right only for it to fail on something else major! Cheers.
Nick.
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razza987
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posted on 17/5/07 at 12:34 AM |
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Nick, I'm in King's Lynn and run an S13 (300bhp ), give me a shout if you need a hand/advice.
Raz
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Impact301
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posted on 17/5/07 at 10:08 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by razza987
Nick, I'm in King's Lynn and run an S13 (300bhp ), give me a shout if you need a hand/advice.
Raz
Cheers for that mate, nice one. 300bhp, hey...I bet thats fun!! I'll have a go at the oil feed pipe then decide where to go after then. Cheers.
Nick
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Impact301
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posted on 17/5/07 at 07:09 PM |
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Had a look at the oil feed pipe, but its such a nightmare to get to (i reckon the Japanese have very small hands!) I think Im gonna run the car for an
MOT (its only 3 months before its due anyway) and see what else comes up then decide what to do. Whatever is causing the smoke its not an easy thing
to sort out and only working on it on the driveway is not the best idea so I think a garage will get the job if the turbo does need replacing! Cheers
for all the help tho, been very helpful.
Nick.
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flak monkey
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posted on 17/5/07 at 07:13 PM |
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Nick, if you get the bits we should be able to swap the turbos if it comes to it. I'll give you a hand, and sounds like theres another local
with a more knowledge of the S13 too
Up to you tho.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Impact301
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posted on 17/5/07 at 09:18 PM |
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Yeah cool, cheers. The worst thing is needing to get underneath properly, I guess with axle stands it would be ok. Standard turbos seem reasonably
easy to come by so I think I'll put it in for a pre-MOT test and see what else comes up. If it needs welding and bits, I may as well do that all
at the same time, or keep an eye out for a complete car and make one good one out of the two! Or break it for bits, cut my losses and buy a yank!!
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flak monkey
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posted on 17/5/07 at 09:21 PM |
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Can just shove it up on our ramps, should be easy enough to get to then. Will have a look when i get back if you can wait 2 or 3 weeks
Mind you, you know i am all up for the yank tank
David
[Edited on 17/5/07 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Impact301
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posted on 23/5/07 at 02:17 PM |
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Took the old nissan for a spin down some local backroads and its still smoking just the same, no worse luckily. Someone on a nissan forum suggested
putting in a one way valve in the breather from the exhaust cam cover to the turbo intake. What would that do? Any ideas? Nick.
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hobbsy
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posted on 24/5/07 at 01:41 AM |
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Depending on the way around you fit it it could stop the crankcase gases being taken back through the intake. If its really breathing hard you could
be getting smoke because of this.
You probably could determine this by just taking the breather off though.
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Impact301
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posted on 29/5/07 at 11:14 AM |
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repair or break?
Ran the old bus in for an MOT earlier - failed on pretty much what I expected really, the odd surprise tho. They said it was a worn turbo causing the
smoke and it failed on emissions so Im guessing thats the main cause as it was chucking out oil smoke. It needs lots of welding to the sills, inner
wheel arches & suspension mounting area , the rear brakes are still not right, some of the pipes & fuel lines are slightly corroded (although
this was only advisory this time) and a lower suspension arm has lots of play in ball joint. But, the main chassis rails and bulk head are still
solid, the engine runs as sweet as a nut and its still fun to drive, so is it worth a repair or break for spares? Advice wanted! Cheers.
Nick.
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flak monkey
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posted on 29/5/07 at 11:31 AM |
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Hey mate, this was up for sale last week, looks like its probably gone now though
Capri
I think the only thing to do is find out how much it'll cost to get it fixed, then make a decision. You'll get most of your cash back
breaking it though I should think.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Impact301
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posted on 29/5/07 at 12:14 PM |
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Thats a cool car! Yeah apparently the ball joint shouldnt be too expensive, but the turbo will be best part of 100quid and the receptionist in the
garage said its about £400 worth of welding. I may be able to get it cheaper by one of the banger guys, but the people I mentioned it to are not keen
on welding road cars. I'll have a word with Sparky (the guy who I got your uprights from) as he runs a garage and might do a deal if I bribe him
with free DVD's for a year!! I'll try parkinson's for the ball joint quote I think. Im glad I didnt buy new wheels for it, and
probably shouldnt have brought the tailgate, although I should be able to sell that as clean ones are in demand.
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Impact301
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posted on 29/5/07 at 01:43 PM |
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Think Im going to try the one-way valve thing on the breather to see if it smokes any less. Ive been told you can get one from a plumber shop, but
would it matter what size? Or apparently 2 litre Honda's have them so someone said. Any ideas?
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