quote:Originally posted by christim
The tunnel top isn't rivetted, just on for show for now...still deciding how best to fix it so it's removable with the trim I'm
planning on.
Would be interested in how you're going about that - I am also aiming for a flat top panel, but haven't quite working out how to trim the
sides appropriately.
I made the tunnel tops to drop over and fix with screws in the side, I also lifted the front section up around 25mm to leave space for wiring etc. And
made the rear section into an armrest. tunnel Description Description
That does look really tidy! I'm going for a wooden trim on the top and carpet up the sides, I could attach a carpet-trimmed side panel to the
top maybe
I'm also thinking about a press stud solution...like buttons on a coat! pushes on and pops off easily. Though that would create a gap between
the top and sides that would need filling somehow
I like the arm rest as well...could be space for a cup holder in there too
quote:Originally posted by christim
That does look really tidy! I'm going for a wooden trim on the top and carpet up the sides, I could attach a carpet-trimmed side panel to the
top maybe
I'm also thinking about a press stud solution...like buttons on a coat! pushes on and pops off easily. Though that would create a gap between
the top and sides that would need filling somehow
I like the arm rest as well...could be space for a cup holder in there too
So I'm fitting the fuel tanks, lines, etc...and not really thought about the below arrowed areas before:
But now I look at it, these are exposed allowing road crap into the boot area and over the tanks/lines, not necessarily a problem and I don't
think I've ever seen anyone cover these areas? Just to be safe I'll make up a screen to protect this area
quote:Originally posted by christim
So I'm fitting the fuel tanks, lines, etc...and not really thought about the below arrowed areas before:
But now I look at it, these are exposed allowing road crap into the boot area and over the tanks/lines, not necessarily a problem and I don't
think I've ever seen anyone cover these areas? Just to be safe I'll make up a screen to protect this area
Two steps forward one step back
I've seen others mention that the lack of undertray means the back panel acts like a parachute, but I guess you need to be careful around
clearance for the suspension arms with anything you introduce here.
Yeah looking at it I can see why. I'll be putting a panel and maybe diffuser under there eventually
After an evening cutting up cardboard to make some sort of template I can see why people don't really cover these spots...way to many compound
angles! I'm going to leave it for now and add it to the "do it after IVA" list
So this weekend was spent doing the fuel setup...
First thing to do was make a custom p-clip for one of the fuel filters. Started by cutting a strip of steel:
Then bending it to shape and adding rubber trim:
Now to start bolting things to the chassis...here the filter and low pressure pump:
With the small tank fitted most of the lines could be put in place:
Next job was some straps for the main tank. Again cut these from some sheet steel, and also made up some spacers/guides to tightly hold the straps
against the tank when they're bolted in:
Then strapped in the main tank:
So now everything in place, on to adding the filler cap:
Before fitting the cap I put the rear body panel on. Really worried it was going to break trying to get it over the chassis frame but it went on in
the end, and definitely not coming off again!
After that I could then measure up and (very carefully!) cut the hole for the filler cap:
For extra rigidity I also cut out some more sheet steel for the cap bolts to mount on to:
And that's the fuel system is done! Just hoping it doesn't leak now, ha
quote:
And that's the fuel system is done! Just hoping it doesn't leak now, ha
Looks like your back panel bows a bit on the sides? I have the same Equinox panel, and it fits up similarly, i.e. snug on the top rail but stands off
the rail nearest the floor.
Aah I guess that might be a trick of the camera lens as it's straight on the car no bowing. Yep there's a slight gap on the bottom chassis
tube (only 1-2mm), which is odd because I welded the tubes up with the panel fitted then took the panel off. I'm thankful for the gap though,
there was no way that panel was going on otherwise! (Possibly just enough space for some sort of spoiler to slide in post IVA)
Cheers Jason, yep there's already not much play in it so shouldn't need much
This week I finished off the brakes, a few pics:
Line from the tunnel attached to the brake light sensor and then on to the master cylinder:
Then worked on the front lines...cut, bent, held in with cleco's then rivetted:
But oh no! I cut the nearside line too short luckily just enough left on the reel to make another:
So finally all put together:
On to the next job now...Time for the engine and gearbox to go in!. Which means I have to finally decide what setup to go with in terms of flywheel,
clutch, release bearing, etc. Here's the 1.8 CVH flywheel and clutch from the Sierra (left) and 2.0 from the Mondeo (right):
I did wonder about the diameter of the flywheel affecting whether the starter motor would work on both...measured and they're both the same
diameter and sit at the same depth from the engine so that's fine.
So after reading a few threads and looking through the options here's the setup I'm going with:
• 2.0 Zetec (Mondeo, code NGD)
• 1.8 CVH Flywheel (lighter)
• 1.8 CVH Clutch (new...old one rusty, see above)
• Suspect then I'll need original CCT132 release bearing from the donor then, but i have the longer CCT133 Capri type too just in case
• Spigot bearing for the type 9 mounting into the Zetec
I'm sure you know about it already, but if you run the CVH flywheel you'll need a trigger wheel for a crank sensor as it doesn't
have the cut outs in the rear of it like the Zetec flywheels.
Oh ffs annoyed at myself ...I remember thinking this back at the start of the build when I got the engine but completely forgot!
I don't want the hassle, so change to the above....2.0 zetec all the way mounted to the type 9
Thank you! that's saved me a lot of headscratching further down the road
Ok so big job done...engine/gearbox in! New cutch arrived and the flywheel refurbished:
And engine off its stand...it's good to get a bit of space back in the garage! Clutch (and spiggot bearing) can then be attached:
Then I had to make some adjustment to the mounting plate. Forgot to take an 'after' pic but here you can see the Sierra plate and the top
half of the zetec plate:
I've welded on some sheet steel where the starter motor would have gone on the zetec, and cut off the ridge that's on the bottom half of
the plate otherwise it was rubbing against the clutch. Also sanded back and repainted
So on to getting it all in. I put the gearbox in separately and glad I did, no way it would go in attached to the engine what with the floor and
mounting bracket in the way:
And engine in...bit fiddly getting it attached as always, but not too bad:
So next job I think will be plumbing in radiator and hoses, then starting to tackle the loom...
Just a quick update, and a thank you to Mike (Starterman on here) for the new Starter Motor. Great service, price, next day delivery, and definitely
worth it...I think the new motor is even a tad smaller than the donor one which is even better, more clearance from bits cut out of the lower
crankcase.
So over the last month I've managed to get a few jobs done, so time for an update...
With the engine in I'm happy the changes to the sump means it just clears the floor:
And another big thank you to Starterman for supplying the alternator. I'm glad I kept the donor's alternator bracket and the zetec
mount...the two together make the Denso alternator easy to fit and no extra bracketry needing to be made up!. The idler pulley did need a bracket
though, and i turned down a bushing to fit into the bearing:
With all that together it also turns out to be a really common belt size too (6PK1218) so won't ever have trouble when it needs replacing. Here
it is all together:
I got the mechanical oil pressure gauge pipe fitted:
With the injector fuel rail turned around it's now a really easy routing for the fuel pipes, but the outlet gets in the way of the camshaft
position sensor:
So I cut off the sensor's bolt flange, turned it 90 degrees, and cut a bracket to kind of 'pin' the sensor mount down:
Then moved on to the bulkhead. Got this painted, and made a mount for the radiator:
Which meant I could then fit all the coolant pipes, where I also had to make a mount for the expansion tank...and painted the rails to match the
colour scheme
And finally, on to the electrics. I kept the full loom from the Sierra, and have all the engine wiring back to the 42 pin plug, so it's a case
of merging the two together somehow, and I'm working through that.
At the moment I'm just working on getting the PATS to work. I've got as far as getting the LED to blink, though it's blinking a code
at me so I'll be wiring up the OBD2 reader so I can see what it's saying. Also it's very much just testing the theory at the
moment...wires everywhere and some dodgy connection pins. Will tidy it all up once i've proved it works....and can get the engine started!
Sierra loom:
Zetec loom and working on getting the PATS to work:
Bouncing around a bit with what jobs I'm doing, after getting the engine started I've moved on to interior and bodywork. First I painted
all the interior panels to stop the rust:
Got the carpet sheet ordered (from Martrim, along with the black trim and vinyls I'll need). Then got to work measuring, cutting, and glueing
(the camera's deceptive it looks cream here but is actually quite a bit darker biscuit coloured):
For the outer side walls I plugged up the spaces with 25mm insulation sheet. Didn't know how it'd turn out but actually really
impressed...it was easy to cut out and glue into the spaces:
With that done the side carpets could be cut to shape and glued in (upholstery contact adhesive is sticky stuff and unforgiving! You only get one shot
at lining it up and the carpet ain't moving ever again)
Seats in (temporarily just to see how they fit):
Then working on the panels. Got the nosecone and bonnet fitted to the frame I'd made last year. They're now glued on and work as one unit,
to be hinged at the front of the car:
Cut the front ready for the grille:
And all now in place. Still need to glue on the side panels but don't want to do that too soon as still need to cut out the steering rack and
exhaust holes:
Update time, getting the rear finished and finding a solution for the upper seatbelt mounts and rollbar, which I'd been putting off for too
long
Firstly the boot lid and other panels...
I cut, doubled up, glued and shaped the panels out of plywood:
then glued on the leather (vinide):
Lock and stainless steel hinges fitted, and panels mounted to the tub:
Next job was seatbelt mounts, I started with making a template out of card:
Then transferred that onto 40mm box section, and added captive nuts for the bolts:
Bent to shape and tacked onto the plates:
Then fully welded and mounted to the chassis. They will be powder-coated but for now paint and lacquer will keep them safe:
(I made sure the height was above the minimum level for IVA, and the belts don't rub anywhere).
Finally onto the roll bar, another job I was scratching my head over thinking of the options. Originally i had a mini roll bar but that wasn't
going to work. I settled on an MX5 rollbar which I think looks great on the car, but is slightly too long so had to cut and weld the stainless tube
down the centre so it's now the right length:
I'm pleased with the weld and it's neat enough...but it'll be covered anyway by a strap holding one of those acrylic wind-shield
things eventually
Because I didn't know what solution i'd go for when making the chassis, I had welded in a plate on the back just in case. Glad i did but
it's not quite wide enough to hold the rollbar mounting points, so had to make a bracket to extend that plate:
Here it is in place, (countersunk bolts so a panel can fit over it):
and here it is all fitted and finished:
(The idea is I can then fit headrests inside the rollbar arches, the seats are fixed but don't have headrests on themselves)
May I suggest that you cut a panel out from the top of the pedal side of the bulkhead panel, if you ever need to get to the pedals you will be glad
you did Carbon fibre2?
luckily just enough left on the reel to make another: 
...I remember thinking this back at the start of the build when I got the engine but completely forgot! 
