chunkielad
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| posted on 8/1/05 at 09:03 PM |
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Wow - i thought new chassis meant it was seen as a new car and therefore had to be treated as such.
I'm learning lots on here - you guys are top!!
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JoelP
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| posted on 8/1/05 at 10:23 PM |
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the old example of the woodsmans axe is often mentioned - he's had it 30 years, 3 new heads and 5 new handles though... 
or blacksabbath! no original members left (think its them anyway...)
[Edited on 8/1/05 by JoelP]
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wilkingj
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| posted on 8/1/05 at 10:45 PM |
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Hmm New chassis on both my Landrovers only needed a Mot..
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Hellfire
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| posted on 8/1/05 at 10:53 PM |
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I think it was classed a Category 'C' write-off which means its damage is repairable. As far as I know, it can be rebuilt using a new
chassis and then a VIC check before its put back on road. Not sure about the registration plate though and if we keep the same number.....
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chunkielad
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| posted on 8/1/05 at 11:05 PM |
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Excellent - I assume that'd be less painful than the SVA - then again there are beurocrats involved still!!!
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Jasper
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| posted on 9/1/05 at 08:31 PM |
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Just got back from 4 great days in Prague, had a fantastic time, though looking up at all those amazing building was not helped by whiplash!
Hellfire - really sorry to hear about your car, glad you didn't suffer anything more serious too. Had the most unbelievably painful massage by
some Czech bird on Wednesday and one by my 'regular' local lady last monday and one booked for next Tuesday, they really have helped a lot
- definitely worth doing.
Had a quick glance at the car from the back in the garage - also noticed that where the rollbar hit a tree it has also bent the rear end of the a
little chassis too.
The chassis is well repairable, just a little welding work at the front nearside and new wishbones, and a bit more work on the rear quarter. New GRP,
some new ali panelling (or repair) at the back, new rad, fan, rollbar.
I will (with Mark's help ) get as much out of the insurance company as I can, then sell what left either as a whole or broken.
Cheers again for all the info and thoughts....
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 9/1/05 at 09:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkielad
Wow - i thought new chassis meant it was seen as a new car and therefore had to be treated as such.
I'm learning lots on here - you guys are top!!
We reshell cars quite regularly, and we don't even re mot them (unless the new shell is delivered without a factory VIN number, usually only
Peugeot and Citroen). It is only if the car is registered as a total loss in the insurance register that an mot is required, thats why I want jasper
to get a cash in lieu of repair rather accept a total loss settlement, he will be simply renewing a component (chassis). If the car is classed as a
total loss, the cops will be all over it as soon as it is taxed again.
There are so many little administrative pitfalls in this that you need someone who has done this before to guide you.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Hellfire
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| posted on 9/1/05 at 09:59 PM |
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Mark, for us, the cost of the repair exceeded the insured value, which is why the insurance company decided to write it off. Other than a cheque from
the insurance company, we have had no paperwork to complete and send off. Will the insurance company advise DVLA?
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 9/1/05 at 11:36 PM |
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quote:
I think it was classed a Category 'C' write-off which means its damage is repairable. As far as I know, it can be rebuilt using a new
chassis and then a VIC check before its put back on road. Not sure about the registration plate though and if we keep the same number.....
Had to put my Passat through a VIC in December as it was tagged as CAT C. Had to have original VIN & engine no to prove it wasn't ringed. I
would've thought that there must be some contigency for chassis replacement in the regs? Might be worth giving VOSA a call.
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ayoungman
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| posted on 13/1/05 at 01:27 PM |
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written off
My landrover was involved in a small prang when a Golf GTI jumped lights and drove under my drivers door. Due to the amount of door/body work needed,
it was classed as a repairable writeoff. His insurance firm gave me a cheque and I fixed it myself. I've retaxed it and MOT'd it many
times since with no problems. Might I have difficulties if I sell it ?
"just like that !"
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Ian Pearson
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| posted on 13/1/05 at 02:47 PM |
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The vehicle is only tabbed if you make a claim. If you change address, then your Log book will not be re-issued until you forard the VIC certificate
to DVLA
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 13/1/05 at 09:11 PM |
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Cat A - A total write off with no salvageable parts, usually a burn out of a spectacularly bad crash. Salvage value £0
Cat B - Very heavy damage where the existing shell will never be allowed on the road again, the salvage is break only. Salvage value 5-15%
Cat C - Moderate damage, can be returned to the road if properly repaired. Salvage value 15-25%
Cat D - Constructive total loss. Light damage not structurally affecting the value of the car. Typically a single panel damage, break in, stolen
recovered. If the pre incident value of the car is less than £2000, it is not recorded by DVLA.
I am hoping that Jaspers car will not be categorised at all, by doing an estimate which is below 66% of the pre accident value, hiking up the value
(he may need emails sending to the assessor by a number of locost experts attesting to the pre incident value - consider yourselves primed!!). He will
be given a cash in lieu (of repair) payment so he can repair the car. This gets the assessor off the hook from any additional repair responsibility,
and give Jasper a bundle of cash to legally repair his car using a new chassis and any other parts required, and still retain its original identity.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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MikeP
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 02:47 PM |
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Ouch, sorry to see these - very worrisome .
Most of the crashes and close calls seem to be "too much throttle in the corner, and a quick spin".
I bet most of us (at least those that aren't experienced racers) get right off the throttle instinctively as the rear end steps out. It sounds
like the car oversteers even more, even if we have time to steer into the slide. Makes me wonder if these things have a trailing throttle snap
oversteer tendency.
Does that sound right? What needs to be tuned shock/spring-wise to reduce it for the street?
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Jasper
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 03:21 PM |
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Mike - I'm sure that was the case with me, even though I know not to come off, it's very hard not to when they 'snap'.
BTW - Insurance company have agreed to settle, so the whole thing is now available in the For Sale section.
[Edited on 31/1/05 by Jasper]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 03:33 PM |
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I read something interesting the other day (well, I thought it was interesting! ) - apparently police drivers are taught to dip the clutch if they go
into a spin. It doesn't directly help recovery, but FWD and RWD cars behave exactly the same in a spin when the clutch is dipped, so the same
recovery technique can be used for both types of car.
I was always taught never to upset the balence of a RWD car when in a tight corner, especially changing gear or braking, as the weight transfer can
cause the tail to go. I was very surprised when I drove a fast FWD caar at Silverstone and the instructor was getting me to change gear wherever he
thought fit!
David
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chunkielad
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 04:18 PM |
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I used to have an old 2.0L DOHC Sierra and by god could it scare me in corners. The first time it stepped out, I instinctively blipped the throttle
and steered into the skid. It pulled out and so did my ring piece
I don't know why I didn't come off the throttle - maybe I'm a natural driver
Most would let go!!!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 04:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkielad
I used to have an old 2.0L DOHC Sierra and by god could it scare me in corners. The first time it stepped out, I instinctively blipped the throttle
and steered into the skid. It pulled out and so did my ring piece
I don't know why I didn't come off the throttle - maybe I'm a natural driver
Most would let go!!!
Cars with semi-trailling arms can be nasty in the wet even fwd drive ones (ie Chrysler Alpine)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 05:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I read something interesting the other day (well, I thought it was interesting! ) - apparently police drivers are taught to dip the clutch if they go
into a spin. It doesn't directly help recovery, but FWD and R snip
David
Dipping the clutch stops the engine stalling --- handy if the car comes to rest in the path of oncommng traffic or you want to continue the
high speed pursuit/race.
[Edited on 31/1/05 by britishtrident]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 05:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeP
Ouch, sorry to see these - very worrisome .
Most of the crashes and close calls seem to be "too much throttle in the corner, and a quick spin".
I bet most of us (at least those that aren't experienced racers) get right off the throttle instinctively as the rear end steps out. It sounds
like the car oversteers even more, even if we have time to steer into the slide. Makes me wonder if these things have a trailing throttle snap
oversteer tendency.
Does that sound right? What needs to be tuned shock/spring-wise to reduce it for the street?
One thing that will cause a car to suddenly snap into a spin is having the dampers set too hard -- what happens is a wheel hit a succession of tiny
bumps but because the damper is set stiff it can't return quickly enough hence can't keep in full contact with the road surface ---
From the drivers seat car feels really nice but suddenly flies off the road in the blink of an eye. The locost is a very light car it dosen't
need more than a few clicks on the dampers.
With any kind of loss of control the power going through the driven wheels should be neutalised -- don't lift off the throttle suddenly and
equally well don't keep the boot in -- the correct action is to feather the throttle or if its really getting away from you dip the clutch
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MikeP
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 05:18 PM |
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Dipping the clutch keeps you going straight too, right? Rather than recovering traction and jumping off in some random direction- I remember the
mantra "When you spin, both feet in".
I *think* theory for reducing trailing throttle oversteer is to soften rear rebound and/or front bump on the shocks - slowing the weight transfer to
the front when you get off the throttle. But I *know* that theory and reality often at odds in the black art of suspension tuning .
Me too Jasper - I know what to do, but it's really hard to do it in an emergency - I don't have the same instincts as chunkielad...
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MikeP
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 05:21 PM |
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Hehehe, we cross posted BT. Good, so I'm on the right track then, softer shock settings would help - good to know.
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chunkielad
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 05:51 PM |
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quote:
Me too Jasper - I know what to do, but it's really hard to do it in an emergency - I don't have the same instincts as
chunkielad...
I really think it was fluke more than skill but I do seem to get out of these scrapes everytime!! Maybe a good driver wouldn't get into the
scrape in the first place!
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Northy
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 06:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeP
I remember the mantra "When you spin, both feet in".
So that would be clutch and.......?
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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chunkielad
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 07:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Northy
quote:
Originally posted by MikeP
I remember the mantra "When you spin, both feet in".
So that would be clutch and.......?
The toilet flush!!!
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MikeP
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| posted on 31/1/05 at 09:01 PM |
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.
Brakes so the spinning car keeps going in one direction - other drivers have a better chance to avoid you.
Clutch so the engine doesn't stall - you can drive away if you're not too dizzy .
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