02GF74
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posted on 16/6/09 at 08:15 PM |
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engine swap - think I'm gonn bail out ....
trial fitted carbs - filter backplate on rear one is very close to the brake master - if I am lucky, there'll be 5 mm clearance at most..... but
then the turret on front carb is up against bonnet - to fix that I owuld need to lower engine.
cannot see how I can do that easily ... so current thought is to get the 1300 bored out to max, fit 1100 pistons and be done with it.
with a uprated cam, bigger valve head,. should see some increase.
really wish I had left it alone now, especailly as have missed most of the summere. arse.
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MakeEverything
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posted on 16/6/09 at 08:24 PM |
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Which Engine?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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speedyxjs
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posted on 17/6/09 at 06:05 AM |
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A bonnet bulge should help the bonnet clear the turret on the front.
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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omega0684
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posted on 17/6/09 at 08:55 AM |
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5mm is a massive gap, some of the stuff in my engine bay pass each other by literally mm's,
cut a hole in the bonnet to accommodate the filter, plus you will then have a cold air feed into the carbs
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02GF74
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posted on 17/6/09 at 09:22 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by omega0684
5mm is a massive gap, some of the stuff in my engine bay pass each other by literally mm's,
cut a hole in the bonnet to accommodate the filter, plus you will then have a cold air feed into the carbs
some answers. 1300 crossflow replaced by 1660.
don't want bonnet bulges if I can help it.
the 5 mm is guesstimate. engine is firmly in place but with a T shirt for head gasket (truly locost! ) and head lying on top of that, not bolted.
the weight of the carbs/manifold (twin 40s) moves them so it is not possible to say what their final position is.
bloody turret on carb (choke piston) is right up against the bonnet - the brass nut has already been filed down.
I'm just getting fed up of this - I would need much more stripping down - to see what is going on insdie the trnasmission tunnel to see if I can
alter engine positon - which would mean adjustments to my engine mounts - more cutting and welding or cut the chassis but that is going beyond point
of no retun type of situaiton and I won't know if that will help.
the lowest point is the gearbox bell housing and I want to keep that in same poisiton and rotat the engine gearbox to lower the engine front - but
that may put an unfavourable angle on the prop.
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MikeRJ
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posted on 17/6/09 at 09:36 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
the lowest point is the gearbox bell housing and I want to keep that in same poisiton and rotat the engine gearbox to lower the engine front - but
that may put an unfavourable angle on the prop.
If the engine is tilting up toward the front then you may already have an unfavourable angle on the front UJ. I wouldn't worry about that too
much anyway, the angle will be very small.
Get the car jacked up as high as possible, put it on axle stands and get underneath to see what is actually tilting the engine up. The fix might be
as simple as a few washers on the gearbox mounting to raise it up.
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rusty nuts
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posted on 17/6/09 at 07:32 PM |
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Your better off with a slight angle for the prop UJs than being in line.
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HOL
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posted on 18/6/09 at 08:56 AM |
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The 1600 engine sits an Inch and a bit higher than the 1300. nothing more. Basically, half the extra throw of the crank.
You can physically see the difference by looking directly at the front above where the waterpump is.
For such a small amout of fettling, the gains WILL be significant.
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02GF74
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posted on 18/6/09 at 10:08 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by HOL
The 1600 engine sits an Inch and a bit higher than the 1300. nothing more. Basically, half the extra throw of the crank.
it is nearer to 30 mm - you forgot to take into account the longer con rods.
doesn't sound like much but the 1300 was quite tight for space.
gonna have to remove the tunnel top and see whatTF is going on.
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MikeRJ
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posted on 18/6/09 at 11:29 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
quote: Originally posted by HOL
The 1600 engine sits an Inch and a bit higher than the 1300. nothing more. Basically, half the extra throw of the crank.
it is nearer to 30 mm -
To be fair that is an inch and a bit
I know how depressing stuff like this gets though, you can work for ages and then come up against a real PITA problem like this.
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