02GF74
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 posted on 18/6/09 at 09:23 PM |
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To cut or not to cut, that be the question?
ok, done some measuring.
I measured distance of prop from top of transmission tunnel and height of the tunnel and the prop is more or less horizontal - that I would guess is
good.
I don't think raising the gearbox mount in order to drop the front of the engine down is gonna work.
I have about 30 mm clearance between clutchl release arm and chassis on driver side.
By doing mpore measuring, if I drop the front of the engine by 30 mm, usinbg simiular triangle and assuming the gearbox/engine pivot on the gearbox
mounting, the gear stick will go up by 10 mm but to do that, I need to remove a chassis member - the one that is below the starter motor bulge.
Hmmmmm ... if I were to do that, what rails would I need to maintain chassis rigidity?
An option is to weld a tube to this member below it then cut the top part off.
One last possibility is getting hold of 1600 manifold - there are 4 types, long/short and 1300/1600 engines.
I beilieve I have long/1300 but a long/1600 would have less of an angle, the angle being there to clear the distributor.
hmmmmm so do I cut it or not? There is no gurantee that removing this rail will fix it ...
 
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02GF74
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| posted on 18/6/09 at 09:24 PM |
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manigold with less rise may fix the car issue...
 
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/6/09 at 09:45 PM |
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My mates got a pre litigation westfield, very similar dimensions with a little stubby manifold, carbs just clear the chassis rail, ie exit straight
from the head.
Get the correct manifold or chop and reweld what you have. would be my choice.
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omega0684
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| posted on 18/6/09 at 09:48 PM |
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im guessing that the carbs would actually sit lower than that as the manifold isn't bolted to the head fully & there is a big block of wood
propping them up  just use some normal, non-nyloc nuts to attach the manifold and get an exact realisation of where things are going to sit
HTH
Alex
[Edited on 18/6/09 by omega0684]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 18/6/09 at 10:51 PM |
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That's an important chassis rail unfortunately, besides supporting your engine mount, it adds significantly to the torsional rigidity of the
chassis so cutting it out completely isn't an option.
You can probably get away with using a Y brace, as others have done with the top engine bay triangulation members. This will give some clearance
whilst maintaining some strength.
Suitable
manifold perhaps?
[Edited on 18/6/09 by MikeRJ]
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02GF74
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| posted on 19/6/09 at 08:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
That's an important chassis rail unfortunately, besides supporting your engine mount, it adds significantly to the torsional rigidity of the
chassis so cutting it out completely isn't an option.
So what can I do?
This is how it is now.
 
So what do you suggest?
I cut out the section between engine mount and lower bulkhead rail; then run a diagonal. To support weight of engine, I run a rail to top side
chassis rail.
Or weld rail below, so it is double height and cut out section above? I will loose 25 mm ground clearance.
Or chop the starter motor bulge in the bellhousing?
My proposed change - may not be that easy since the exhaust sits in that area 
arse 
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 19/6/09 at 08:43 AM |
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How about something like this:
 
Chassis mod to clear starter
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02GF74
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| posted on 19/6/09 at 08:57 AM |
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hmmm, I see what you are saying but there is no room for the left arm of the Y-piece - see photo, plus the tight angles on the RH arm and chassis
corner will make it hard for me to get Mr MIG in.
Instead of the Y- can I not run the tube straight to that rail.
I can weld a 2 or 3 mm fillet plate below the joins to maintain strength.
... but this means moving the entire rail over - I am trying to avoid that.
 
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 19/6/09 at 09:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
Instead of the Y- can I not run the tube straight to that rail.
I can weld a 2 or 3 mm fillet plate below the joins to maintain strength.
That should work ok, and would be reasonably easy to implement.
Make sure you have enough room for the starter motor itself though!
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
... but this means moving the entire rail over - I am trying to avoid that.
Is that because of your engine mountings?
That rail triangulates the engine compartment, so will be subject to compressive and tensile forces as the chassis is twisted. You basically need to
feed those forces into a rigid part of the chassis.
[Edited on 19/6/09 by MikeRJ]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 20/6/09 at 11:31 AM |
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Make sure that any alterations still have a load path to channel the stresses, this might not be structurally correct but you get the idea
 
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If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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