franky
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posted on 3/3/11 at 06:09 PM |
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Whats needed to paint a car?
I half fancy giving this a go. I know I won't get a showroom finish in my garage but i'd like to have a go anyway.
What do I need?
Its just to paint the ally panels on my kitcar. I've a compressor already thats about 8cfm. Also a small touch-up gun that I don't mind
using.
I know I need etch primer however thats where my knowledge stops!
I'm only after a gloss white finish
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blakep82
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posted on 3/3/11 at 06:54 PM |
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paint (you can get cellulose from halfords in half of 1 litre containers) and cellulose thinners.
wet and dry paper to key the surface (don't know what grade is best sorry)
a mask suitable for paint spraying!
and some practise
can't really think of what else, except loads of warnings from people on here about how dangerouse it can be, which it is, but as long as
you're careful. i've done it enough times, i'm still alive, but always use the mask
________________________
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tilly819
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posted on 3/3/11 at 07:29 PM |
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im not trying to be funny here but first you need to answer one question
do you want to do it cheep or do it right?
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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franky
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posted on 3/3/11 at 08:04 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by tilly819
im not trying to be funny here but first you need to answer one question
do you want to do it cheep or do it right?
tilly
I want to do it cheap and learn a new skill
I'm also thinking of using 3m carbon wrap in white, however its a little pricey
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Chippy
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posted on 3/3/11 at 09:27 PM |
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Pretty easy to do it locost and not too well, bloody hard to do it well and not too locost. All I can say is have a go, and if you don't mind if
it's not too great then more power to you, and the more you do the better you get. The main thing I have found is the more time spent on
preporation, the better it turns out. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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tilly819
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posted on 3/3/11 at 09:42 PM |
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ok cool, well as you have already said you have a spray gun and compressor thats a good start, its definetly worth fitting a water trap also.
il try not to write an essay here but i carnt make any promises.
1: do any filling, dent removal you need to do remember to heavily key the panel before using filler.
2: key the rest of the panels i find green scothbrite is perfect on ally and about 240 - 300 grit paper on composite, dont use emery paper, use oxide
or wet and dry. then use a tak rag to remove dust
3: wipe panels down with pre paint panel wipe solvent or lightly go over with some thinners wait for full evaporation. tak rag again
4: use a good 2K etch primer and for Christ sake get a good mask its worth spending a few quid on a mask it will come in handy for more than just
painting cars. and cover over the rest of your exposed body. im sure you have heard all the horror stories about isocyanate paints ITS TRUE dam need
killed me one day but thats another story.
5: a light surface coat of etch primer is all you need dont go mad with it, its expensive and more does not mean better
6: let the etch flash for about 20 mins wile you mix your primer, use a 2K high build primer (waits for the H&S brigade to pounce) really 2 pack
is a million times better and easier to use mix to the manufacturers recommendations and use the biggest tip you have for your gun a 2.5mm is great
7) right your etch primer has flashed for 20 mins now do not let it completely dry llay down 3-4 medium thickness coats of primer with about 15-20
mins between coats, the correct way to use 2K is to do one thin coat then one thick coat but since this is your first go you will find it easier to do
3-4 thin coats plus this makes to easier to avoid orange peel, runs and sags.
8) leave your primer to dry overnight, 2 days would be better in this weather. you can use heat to accelerate drying
9) flat back using wet and dry 400 grit to remove orange peel and runs then 800 to get a flat matt panel. use LOADS of water and good quality paper
not the halfords stuff go to a body shop and get some its soooooo much better and doesn't fall to bits after 5 mins in the water.
10) wipe the panel down check for bits you missed etc
11) right now you have a choice there are 3 main top coats 2K, cellulose, synthetic. synthetic is tempting at first because of the price but im sure
to offend someone here but its the paint of the bodge artist. so we will concentrate on cellulose and 2K
Cellulose you can mix up and shoots very well you need about 8 thin but wet coats to get a real deep shine 2K is a 2 coat wonder but its best to build
it up a bit then if you want to polish it up after you can cut some paint back but il going into detail on that in a bit.
12) TAK RAG before you paint............. when you have painted your top coat (take your time and get good overlap on each pass with the gun do full
length of the panel at a constant speed and distance) leave it to dry for a good couple of days 3-4 ideally
13) inspect you handy work, pat yourself on the back then find all the imperfections, curse and swear a bit then iff you feel the need move onto step
14 lol
14) Cutting; involves removing the top later of paint and taking it back to a smooth matt finish like you did with the primer but this time you need
to use 2000grit wet and dry, this is another reason not do use synthetic since the cutting and polishing step dosnt work very well with synthetic
15) compounding: this is were you make your matt panel back into a gloss panel you can do it by hand but it is easier on a flat panel at least to use
a machine polisher with a hard foam head. farecla make a reasonable polishing compound but IMO the 3M one is better. dampen the head of the polisher
and apply a small amount of compound to the head then distribute it over the panel, start the polisher applying very light pressure and work in an
arcing motion over the panel be very careful at the edge of panel it will blow threw the paint very very very fast best to hand polish the edges iff
your are not confident. keep the panel cool with water.
16) you should now have a very smooth, shiny panel. you may have some swirl marks depending on how fussy you are you can use a swirl remover compound
in the same manner as described above to remove there essencualy it just has a finer cutting compound than the previous compound.
17) After all that hard work you thought you were finished didnt you, well not quite 2 tasks remain first remove all the residue from the cutting
compound just a cloth and some water is perfect then make sure the panel has fully cooled from polishing an hour or so should do it, keep it out of
the sun, and now its time for the final task, apply 2-3 layers of the best wax you can afford, this is actually one of the most important steps in the
whole process and so may people dont bother, after all that work it pays to spend that last couple of hours applying way which will really bring out
the shine and protect your paint.
18) almost forgot this one is definitely the most important.......take it outside........get a deck chair.......sit......open beer.....ENJOY
hope this is of help to you.
if you have any other questions just ask
tilly
Ps you can get a showroom finish in your garage, it just takes alot of work..... remember this and you wont go far wrong..... 90% of a good paint job
is good prep, good luck
[Edited on 3/3/11 by tilly819]
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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franky
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posted on 3/3/11 at 10:04 PM |
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wow!!! Thanks thats a good guide
Cheers.
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tilly819
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posted on 3/3/11 at 10:15 PM |
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no problem, any questions just shout,
just had a look at your photo thread, very nice is that a Stack Dash i see
tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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