PeterV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 11:02 AM |
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Rear Wheel Alignment
The WLR has spent two happy weeks at Abbott Racing being hung and fettled. All the corner weights have been taken and the suspension set up along with
cambers and casters (or at the very least they have been measured) and adjusted. The car now feels a lot better both in handling performance and build
confidence after having them that know paw through it.
But the big problem is with the rear end which has a massive 11mm toe in on each side. Yikes!! 
Before I go mad stripping everything down I thought I ask if anyone has had a similar cock up and knows what I’ve done wrong or has a sensible way of
sorting this kind of problem 
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Nick DV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 11:14 AM |
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Do you really have a problem? You say that everything is better, and whilst I would say 11mm is massive - are you sure that figure is correct - would
Abbott Racing have made such a big error.
Before you start changing/removing things, it would be best and possibly a money saving exercise, to just phone them and ask.
Cheers, Nick 
"The force will be with you, always!"
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PeterV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 11:22 AM |
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Yep Abbott gave me the figures and its 2.75 degrees toe in on the rear. With no adjustment mechanism they were not inclined to remanufacture anything
without my input. So I have the car back in my workshop ready for something….. if only I knew what 
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snapper
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 12:08 PM |
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You can add caster and camber wedges between the hub and the upright.
Use washers between the hub and the upright face to reset the toe, caster, camber, measure the thickness and then have a plate milled to the correct
profile.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Nick DV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 12:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by PeterV
Yep Abbott gave me the figures and its 2.75 degrees toe in on the rear. With no adjustment mechanism they were not inclined to remanufacture anything
without my input. So I have the car back in my workshop ready for something….. if only I knew what
I understand what you are saying now!! Do you not have any spec or data sheet for the car that you can refer to, or do you not know anyone else/other
forums with the same car?
There are others on here that are clever enough to answer this, and I'm sure the'll be along at some stage to give an answer. Good luck
Cheers, Nick
"The force will be with you, always!"
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PeterV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 12:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snapper
You can add caster and camber wedges between the hub and the upright.
Use washers between the hub and the upright face to reset the toe, caster, camber, measure the thickness and then have a plate milled to the correct
profile.
Cheers, that sounds like a plan. Was thinking of some form of shims but a plate sounds like a much better idea. It just so happens I have a new Warco
mill on order so by the time it gets here it could be its first test job. I mean you have to test it before using it on real customers work
don't ya
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procomp
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 02:04 PM |
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Hi
It's not an uncommon problem with that design ( MK ) It's purely down to either inaccuracies in the jigging of the chassis or wishbones,
usually the chassis brackets.
Best solution would be to add an adjuster in to the rear leg of the wishbone as per Mac#1 did with there MK copy.
Or continue as described above adding shims Etc. Personally i would use shims to start with to get everything aligned and run a few hundred test miles
to confirm the settings are correct then machine up some plates.
For shims don't use washers as the adjustments that are required to fine tune are small. Use shim steel made washers try 4 or 5 tho thick
items.
Also don't forget to get the thrust alignment sorted also not just the overall alignment.
Cheers Matt
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PeterV
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| posted on 3/10/11 at 02:27 PM |
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Cheers Mat.
I suspect chassis jig error coz it is perfectly wrong on both sides. I'm guessing that the wishbones would be opersite errors, unless of course
I mounted one upside down.
Anyone got any pics of the Mac#1 design rear wishbones?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 4/10/11 at 08:10 PM |
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What happens if you switch the wishbones left to right without flipping them ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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PeterV
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| posted on 4/10/11 at 08:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
What happens if you switch the wishbones left to right without flipping them ?
According to my stick of inches not much. I know my stick is not totally accurate but the other thing is the book of words, on building, show the wish
bone brace strut running rear to front and that's how my ones are. The only way to achieve this would be to flip the wishbones when transferring
them. Maybe the book of words is wrong though?
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