Sierra
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 11:11 PM |
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Which sump Is this?
I guys I've got a zetec blacktop and I have found a tiny hair line crack in my oil pan which is leaking a small amount of oil. Can any tell by
these pictures which zetec engine it's off because every zetec pan I've seen for sale is a different shape.
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Macbeast
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 06:39 AM |
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Looks as if it has been modded to reduce height ( and not quite enough ) 
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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Nick DV
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 06:42 AM |
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Probably a standard sump, but looks to me that it's been 'cut and shut' a fair bit. By the look of the bottom, it's been hit a
few times, so has a weld cracked and is it leaking at that point? I would just take it off and repair the crack with a fresh weld.
Cheers, Nick
"The force will be with you, always!"
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 06:50 AM |
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Yup. Modified blacktop zetec.
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snapper
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 07:14 AM |
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A CVH sump fits
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Sierra
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 08:26 AM |
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Thanks guys, yeah it looks like its been cut and re shaped for clearance but it still sits very low, what have others done.
Problem I've got now is how would I get another one the same (I don't weld), can it be welded as its soo thin and will probably blow a
hole.
Or has anyone ever used the liquid metal products as this is a very thin hairline crack.
It's difficult to read the oil level as dipstick always shows it as over filled
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Macbeast
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 08:46 AM |
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I don't see any extension to restore some of the lost sump oil capacity.
The reading on the dipstick should not be affected by the mod - the dipstick measures from the block downwards to the oil surface and this should
still be the same.
A proper garage workshop should be able to MIG weld it for you for peanuts ( Thoroughly clean it and de-rust before taking it in )
[Edited on 4/10/12 by Macbeast]
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 08:53 AM |
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Similar to what I did on mine, but with single plated bottom, where as mine used part of the original.
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=149348 (near the end of that thread)
Looks like its about as short as it can be without loosing too muhc volume so you might want to add some sort of sump guard.
Mistral Motorsport
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 08:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Macbeast
I don't see any extension to restore some of the lost sump oil capacity.
There is a fair amount, whilst the standard sump is fairly deep, it is only deep half way accross its width, the other half is almost completely flush
with the upper edge.
Mistral Motorsport
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Sierra
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 08:58 AM |
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Doesn't the dipstick go to the bottom of the pan and if that's been shortened it will read as if its got more than it has.
Is this my sump below? Looks like an odd one as half is flat and mine isint
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 09:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Sierra
Doesn't the dipstick go to the bottom of the pan and if that's been shortened it will read as if its got more than it has.
Is this my sump below? Looks like an odd one as half is flat and mine isint
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/s18rra/BBF62B84-0E2A-4546-B408-9E09BB43C3B2-569-0000002295734ABD-1.jpg
That is likely to be what yours is based on, when yours was modded the deep area was cut short and the flat area was made larger, so it should have
kept roughly the same amount of oil as the original, despite being cut shorter. As the volume is roughly the same ,the dipstick level will also remain
the same. The dip stick doesnt meaure the bottom of the pan, it measures the oil level, which will be near the top of the sump.
[Edited on 4-10-12 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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Sierra
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 10:39 AM |
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Unfortunately I can't put a protection guard as the sump already is the lowest part of the car and is very low. I could however maybe get a
plate welded directly to the bottom of the pan to make it stronger when it does get hit.
Does anybody know what metal it's made from as its very thin and can a steel plate be welded to it?
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 11:10 AM |
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Its made of mild steel. I wouldnt weld anything directly to it.
How far is it below your chassis rail? It could be the car it seld is too low, so the other option would be to raise the suspension?
You could still fit a sump guard, this whilst this will be lower than the sump, the idea of a sump gaurd is to get hit, but its mounted to the chassis
so it protects the sump from getting damaged, the guard it self is sacrafical, so will get scrapped and bashed but protect the import stuff.
(I have one I picked up on ebay made of 10mm aluminium, its well used and scrapped but is still in shape)
Mistral Motorsport
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Sierra
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 11:22 AM |
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Ill measure how much lower it is when I next go to the garage but I think a good inch below chassis.
I suppose I could get a guard made up from someone that drops for the sump and raises up on the sides to attach to the chassis
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loggyboy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 11:27 AM |
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An inch below is about right for a 7.
I think mines about 50mm below (albeit not on the road yet)
I would expect the previous owner was either not very careful, went over too many bumps to quickly.
Repair it and see how you get on with it at the height it is at mo.
Mistral Motorsport
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Chippy
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| posted on 4/10/12 at 03:02 PM |
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Looks to me as though the engine/gearbox has been mounted far too low from the pictures, may just be the angle they were taken at though. If the sump
is in fact just 1" below the chassis, then the car has been set up too low. Either raise the engine/gearbox or raise the suspesion so the car
rides higher. IMHO Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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