Jaygarni
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 posted on 27/5/16 at 07:26 PM |
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Newbie ALERT
Hi everyone.
I'm looking at buying (and building) my first ever kit car. Just blown up and broken my 330bhp scooby so looking for a new toy mainly for track
use..i have been doing lots of research into different models etc I think I'm pretty set on the MNR VORTX as they seem to have great feedback
and seem relatively well priced. Ive got a few questions if any one can help.
Firstly does anyone know/ recommend any tips for trying to save a few pennies? The idea is the more I can save in places the more extras I can get.
Ive heard buying a Sierra and removing hubs,diff, shafts etc maybe a way to save a bit?
Secondly I have my mind set on fitting a bike engine (can rev the nuts off it ☺ has anyone got any recommendations? Again was thinking the
Yam R1 as has a shallower sump hoping avoid having to fork out for a dry sump straight away.
Also would it be better to try buy a whole bike or just try get the engine..
Sorry I'm a newbie
Thanks in advance
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bi22le
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| posted on 27/5/16 at 09:22 PM |
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A couple of money saving tips.
Buy built and then change the things you don't like then build from scratch
Get a mx5 or BMW donor orientad car not sierra
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 28/5/16 at 05:25 AM |
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I believe people drysump because bikes don't have a problem with lateral gs but when you put the engine in a car it's a different matter
as it doesn't lean into corners.
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Jaygarni
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 posted on 28/5/16 at 05:29 AM |
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Yer that's what I've read.. But apparently the R1 isn't as bad as has alow sump and can get away with adding baffles rather then a
dry sump. Not 100% sure tho hence all the questions
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hkp57
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| posted on 28/5/16 at 06:35 AM |
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Jaygarni
Where about in the country are you as it would be really good to get a ride in one from whatever builder.
Bike engines don't all need dry sumps and your right the R1 can just use a baffled sump, and the like of a Hayabusa if its mostly fast road work
can use a baffled sump with swinging pick up, its only really on the tracks where sustained forces cause oil surge issues. Even with a baffled sump it
would be a good idea to run an Accusump for just in case moments.
Honda CBR1000, R1, ZX10 are all great engines that are fairly cheap when you consider 170BHP, at silly RPM and a sequential gearbox in a compact
lightweight package.
When you start to head for Hayabusa and ZZR1400 the money starts to ramp up just to buy an engine package with loom etc.
Not to put you off but the price of the kit and the engine packages might sound cheap to have a new car, but the costs do escalate out of control if
you are not very disciplined and stick to a tight plan.
There are some great bargins on ebay right now for a couple of BEC packages that are offered for less than the sum of their parts, as was said before
for a first kit I would buy ready built the add my own twist.
(nothing to do with me just an observation on whats for sale on ebay without knowing your budget)
eBay Item
eBay Item
eBay Item
eBay Item
eBay Item
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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adithorp
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| posted on 28/5/16 at 07:37 AM |
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R1 doesn't need dry sump. A baffle is enough for road use. For track use the '04 onward motors need a small mod' to the crankcase
breather system.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Jaygarni
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| posted on 28/5/16 at 08:06 AM |
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Thanks for all the info everyone. Currently at work so sorry for late replys etc. The green mnr rt looks like a work of art 
I'm pretty set on building one from scratch. I probably will regret not taking the advise it's just something I've always wanted to
do as went out in a Caterham when I was younger. I'm not a mechanic but no a few basics and a lucky enough to have a few mates who are.
I'm sure I can twist their arm when times get tough.
I'm based in Oxford and ent someone who is guna go pretend to buy one just to get a ride. as tempting as it seems. Am allways up for a
passenger ride if anyone needs a good excuse to take there's out. I want to try keep to the budget as low as possible and will try and use as
much of my resources to do so. Ive budgeted around 10k (that what the missis has said there for she will be keeping a close eye) from what I've
seen I'm hoping this is viable.
Again anymore info keep it coming always willing to learn and take advice on-board.
Thanks again
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Ugg10
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| posted on 28/5/16 at 08:17 AM |
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Best advice I can give is spend a few pound now on petrol and visit a shortlist of factories. This is not like a normal car buy, you will have a long
relationship with the manufacturer and you need to know you can get on with them and they have the resources and knowledge to be there on the end of a
phone and answer the many questions you have. £100 spent now may save you thousand and a load of ball ache later.
So, write a spec list (bike/car engine, screen/aeroscreen, wheel size/brakes, lsd/open diff, donor choice, oem clock/aftermarket clock, used for
track/road/both etc.), do you Internet first sift costing up the candidates from their info, go to a show and talk to owners/manufacturers and go to
the factories. Also don't forget to budget around £1k to get through iva test assuming a fail first time.
[Edited on 28/5/16 by Ugg10]
[Edited on 28/5/16 by Ugg10]
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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