RI8CHP
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posted on 3/10/05 at 05:00 PM |
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Pinto Head Problems
pinto head problems
evening chaps
started to strip the engine over the weekend and undoing the head bolts no problem untill the last 1!!!!!!!
my extension bar decided it would snap not a problem as a trip to halfords would sort it (lifetime waranty) just tryed it again and snap clean off,
now the head of the bolt is starting to round off T55 Head
any ideas
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Avoneer
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posted on 3/10/05 at 05:12 PM |
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At this point, it might be worth welding your t55 bit to the bolt and using a bigger bar.
Just a thought,
Pat...
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Avoneer
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posted on 3/10/05 at 05:13 PM |
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Actually, before that, bolt back up a couple of the other bolts in case the head is on an ever so slight angle making it hard to remove the stubborn
bolt.
Cheers,
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Messenjah
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posted on 3/10/05 at 05:35 PM |
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already been said is to weld the socket to the bolt so that it wont round it and then slip a handy 5 foot length of scaffold pole over your bar gives
alot more leverage and wont break very easily i mean real scaffold pole btw not the alu stuff
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nick205
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posted on 3/10/05 at 05:48 PM |
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Alternatively you could try an impact driver/wrench which might break it free. I'm not sure how easily you could weld the bit into the bolt
head as access is fairly limited if I remember.
HTH
Nick
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rusty nuts
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posted on 3/10/05 at 07:35 PM |
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The correct way of releasing cylinder head bolts
is to crack each bolt before actually undoing them , always start from the outside and work inwards (the opposite order to torqueing them up) Try
putting the other bolts in tightly then attempt to undo problem bolt. May be possible to drill off head bolt as a last resort with other bolts removed
it will be possible to lift head off and remove remains of bolt.
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RI8CHP
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posted on 3/10/05 at 08:48 PM |
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thanks lads i will try again 2mro i all else fails i will drill the head off the bolt and lift the head over it as a last resort though
cheers
leon
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 4/10/05 at 05:20 AM |
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You'll run the risk of warping the head if you dont crack all the head bolts first, undoing them in the correct sequence.
In fact if one bolts gone that tight I'd have the head checked, cos thats a lot of stress on one point... NOT the way to remove a head
[Edited on 4/10/05 by Ben_Copeland]
Ben
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RI8CHP
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posted on 4/10/05 at 07:13 AM |
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ben
i relise this is the inncorrect way to remove the head! i cracked each bolt first in the coorect sequence but this little bleader wont budge!!!!!!
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DarrenW
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posted on 4/10/05 at 09:09 AM |
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I wouldnt worry about the loosening sequence if youve never had head off before. It will most probs be in desperate need of rebuild anyway so will
benefit from a skim.
My head was in a dreadful state and the old cam was well worn. I quick read of Des Hammils book soon had me reaching for the die grinder. A few nights
later it was ported. Local machine shop re did the guides, lapped in all the valves etc and skimmed 40 thou off the bottom. I then fitted new seals,
rockers, springs, FR32 cam and spray bar and its like a new one now! All in cost me about £120.
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 4/10/05 at 06:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by RI8CHP
ben
i relise this is the inncorrect way to remove the head! i cracked each bolt first in the coorect sequence but this little bleader wont budge!!!!!!
Thats ok then well apart from the bolt that wont come out
Ben
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Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
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