JoelP
|
| posted on 13/11/05 at 09:54 PM |
|
|
trailer axle weight question
just a quick daft question  as usual!
Im shortly ordering parts to make a 4 wheel trailer.
Would i be right in saying that you add the two axle weights together to get the total allowed weight, or does each axle individually have to be rated
to the total weight?
Im fairly sure that if i order 2 350kgs axles, the trailer will be good for 700kgs, but i thought id rather avoid daft mistakes at this stage
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
rayward
|
| posted on 13/11/05 at 09:57 PM |
|
|
yes thats right, but you have to subtract the weight of th trailer from that so if your axles can take 700kg between them, you need to subtract the
weight of the axles, steel, hitch+any other bits from that figure.
at that weight, i would use braked hubs aswell, could be a bit of a handful unbraked
got some axles and a hitch for sale if your interested, open to offers now(need them out of the way)
Ray
[Edited on 13/11/05 by rayward]
[Edited on 13/11/05 by rayward]
|
|
|
Rorty
|
| posted on 14/11/05 at 03:44 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rayward
yes thats right, but you have to subtract the weight of th trailer from that so if your axles can take 700kg between them, you need to subtract the
weight of the axles, steel, hitch+any other bits from that figure.
at that weight, i would use braked hubs aswell, could be a bit of a handful unbraked
got some axles and a hitch for sale if your interested, open to offers now(need them out of the way)
Ray
[Edited on 13/11/05 by rayward]
[Edited on 13/11/05 by rayward]
You don't need to subtract the weight of the axles, just everything else.
BTW I think you shot yourself in the foot; "need them out of the way" usually means FREE! 
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 14/11/05 at 01:12 PM |
|
|
4 wheel trailers can be problems on even slightly rough roads (such as hillclimb paddocks) as all the weight can get dumped on one axle , so you
have to over engineer a just bit but not to the full weight.
Keep the axle spacing as close as possible to minimse this very unpleasant effect.
Also a good idea make the draw bar slightly on the long side it greatly improves the motorway stability.
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 14/11/05 at 01:58 PM |
|
|
good point there mr trident. I was thinking of putting both axles a little towards the back to help stability, but that might upset the weight balance
too much. A long shaft might be just the solution 
|
|
|
Rorty
|
| posted on 15/11/05 at 02:25 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Also a good idea make the draw bar slightly on the long side it greatly improves the motorway stability.
...and makes reversing it easier too.
I agree with everything you say, but would like to add another reason for grouping the axles close together. If you try turning a loaded twin-axle
trailer sharply and the axles are further apart than absolutely necessary, the tyres will start peeling off the rims.
With leaf spring axles, it's usually the spring hanger positions that restrict closer positioning of the axles. For that reason, it's best
to purchase proper trailer leaves as they are shaped for close axle grouping. Not a problem if you're intending using Indespension units.
You could also group the two axles on a common rocker which will spread the load evenly across both axles. The only thing with a rocker is that it
raises the bed of the trailer. If that's a problem for you, you can use drop axles.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
|
|
|
