alanr
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 08:32 AM |
|
|
What Oil
Hi all - I've a couple of questions for all you bike engined drivers
What type and make of oil do you use in your engine and how often do you change it
and do you use any oil and if so how much
I've had my Blade for coming up to a year now (and have done about 1500 miles) and have just had to top it up - I thought these engines
didn't use oil so was wondering what others are experincing
A
|
|
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 09:01 AM |
|
|
Yamahas are built loosely and burn oil, but Hondas tend not to. As Chris said, 1500 miles before topping up is good for any bike engine, and I really
wouldn't worry at that.
I do the same as Chris regarding changes - every 3000 or at least every year, whichever is the most frequent. I use Motul 300V bike oil, but any
synthetic bike oil will be fine (Rock Oil Syntesis is very good, Castrol R4 etc....).
[Edited on 23/10/06 by Coose]
[Edited on 23/10/06 by Coose]
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
mad dad
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 09:14 AM |
|
|
Just about to do a change with Castrol GPS 10-40 been told to put the 4 litres in with a filter change???
|
|
|
Catpuss
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 10:30 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Coose
Yamahas are built loosely and burn oil, but Hondas tend not to. As Chris said, 1500 miles before topping up is good for any bike engine, and I really
wouldn't worry at that.
I do the same as Chris regarding changes - every 3000 or at least every year, whichever is the most frequent. I use Motul 300V bike oil, but any
synthetic bike oil will be fine (Rock Oil Syntesis is very good, Castrol R4 etc....).
[Edited on 23/10/06 by Coose]
[Edited on 23/10/06 by Coose]
Yammys R1s arn't built that loosley. The bores are nickasil lined to reduce friction. What usually happens is that, as the engine is a monster,
it needs quite a bit more stick during run in that normal engines to avoid glazed bores.
In PB in the past they have said a quick hone of the bores after run in was all it needed just to matt off the surface.
Couple glazed can result in some oil burn off during accelleration. I have heard of R1s doing 1ml of oil per mile and even one doing 10ml a mile.
For change intervals, generally 3K miles or every 6 months rather than 12 (and change after a trackday/club race). The gear box breaks down m/cycle
oil quickly and on top of that there are less friction inhibitors to avoid clutch slippage (Hence bike oil around API-SG compare to car oil around
API-SJ). Also check the japanse bike rating JASO (?). If it don't have that its not bike specific.
Importantly too, get the semi/fully synth correct for your engine. Certain engines work better with semi some with full.
|
|
|
Coose
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
Every modern Yamaha four stroke I've been involved with has burned oil, even after running in (not too gently) with semi-synth before going on
to synthetic. I been a club-race mechanic on FZR6's and 1000 EXUPS, on to BSB with a YZF750SP and they all did it! My R1 does the same, as did
the '98 R1 in Performance Bikes recently. They pulled their motor apart after 20k miles and found everything to be within tolerance, and the
bores looked quite happy too.
I wouldn't worry about oil usage until it becomes excessive.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 23/10/06 at 11:00 AM |
|
|
Castrol R4 superbike..
Best u can get
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
alanr
|
| posted on 24/10/06 at 03:31 PM |
|
|
Thanks for all you comments and imput Guys - much appreciated
A
|
|
|
