steve m
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 07:56 PM |
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rover 45 head gasket
So, !
Ive got this lovley brown oiley water pouring, out of the header tank, and the engine sounds like it full of old bolts
and the dipstick is empty
head gasket, ?
how easy is it on a 1600 k series, and is it worth it
as my son was going to have it on saturday, for a nominal fee of £500
problem is, he would still pay £500, and i would have to fix it, at my cost
any good ideas, but toching it wont work as ive had to transfer the insurance to my other car,
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rayward
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 08:00 PM |
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no too bad a job, providing the liners haven't moved and trashed the head,
one thing that has been mentioned before is the through bolt at the front between cylinders 3 and 4 can foul the sump, resulting in the head not being
torqued down correctly.
a good mod on the 1.8 k series is to use the 4layer 2 part Land Rover gasket, not sure if it fits the 1.6 though.
cost wise, should be less than £100, the bolts can be reused if not stretched(the haynes manual has a figure to work too)
hth
Ray
[Edited on 13/3/07 by rayward]
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snippy
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 08:20 PM |
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Having rebuilt a Rover 214 engine a couple of years ago, it`s not too bad a job with access quite good on a K series engine. Just be careful if you
decide to get the head skimmed. Rover heads are only good for one skim so if its been skimmed before you`ll probably need to source another unskimmed
head. You can buy whats called a space saver gasket for a Rover K series engine to thicken up the tolerances again, but this didn`t work on mine. It
began leaking almost instantly so I had to source another head altogether. Parts are cheap as said above as its a very common problem with Rovers.
Nick
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nitram38
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 08:43 PM |
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Just done my 214 engine.
I would replace the stretch bolts if I was you. New gaskets generally are better than the original ones, including metal dowls instead of plastic.
You will need to lock off your camshafts and main crank in the valve safe position plus take care when re-fitting the cam belt. It is easy to get it
one tooth out.
While the head is off, get it checked and if necessary, skimmed.
You might find it awkward because the cambelt end is up against a bulk head. I did mine in my spaceframe chassis so access was easier.
Bought a set of gaskets and stretch bolts from Gaskets For Classics
Very good quality and locost!
[Edited on 13/3/2007 by nitram38]
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daviep
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 09:24 PM |
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If it's got a water to oil cooler fitted maybe worth elimminating that before you take the head off.
Davie
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steve m
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| posted on 13/3/07 at 10:39 PM |
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how would I know if its got a water to oil intercooler
its only a 1.6 manual so i would be very surprised
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