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Author: Subject: Duratec plumbing
ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 08:38 AM Reply With Quote
Duratec plumbing

Hello all

Having a bit of bother with me Duratec, me wedding is 3 weeks away and I want to drive it there.

Got the engine in and running but it keeps over heating due to no flow as the water isnt being passed around.

Had a look around on various forums and spoke to Westfield and realised that I the original thermostat was controlled by the ECU, so I’ve just fitted the Westfield one and it seems to be even worse with the water not being pumped around at all.

I followed this diagram which i got from the SBD website (i think)



I have 2 bleed point for the water one at the radiator and one by the fan, and had the car jacked right up at the front and back (not at the same time)

not really over heating as its only one part which gets hot where the temperature sensor is, but the rest of the pipes are not getting hot as there is no flow.

If I take out the mechanical thermostat and replace the electrical one but remove all the internals, will i get a constant flow?

also my pipe which leads from the hot outlet at the back of the engine to the top of the rad is around 43mm ID is this too much?

there are no leeks, the water pump runs anti clockwise ( i think but need to check) if that makes a difference and I Have bypassed the fan so it is constantly on at the moment.

Thanks in advance

[Edited on 15/6/07 by ibakes]

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stevec

posted on 15/6/07 at 08:45 AM Reply With Quote
Firstly the cold arrow pointing at the Thermostat should be a hot arrow pointing out.
I will have a think about the rest, is the pump rotating in the correct direction.?
Steve.

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Firstly the cold arrow pointing at the Thermostat should be a hot arrow pointing out.
I will have a think about the rest, is the pump rotating in the correct direction.?
Steve.


Sorry, So the big pipe coming from the thermostat should go to the top of the rad, which would make more sence to monitor the temp from there as opposed to the cool water back in

and Anticlockwise i think (edited that part after you replied )

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RazMan

posted on 15/6/07 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
Yup, it's basically running backwards. Change red to blue and reverse the arrows and I think it's about right.

Hot water exits the engine and goes through the top of the rad, exiting the bottom hose and back to water pump.

It might be worth your while disconnecting the heater matrix to see if that might be causing the problem (airlock maybe?)

[Edited on 15-6-07 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:03 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
Yup, it's basically running backwards. Change red to blue and reverse the arrows and I think it's about right.

Hot water exits the engine and goes through the top of the rad, exiting the bottom hose and back to water pump.


Pump running backwards??

and pipe work backwards too????

the water pump is right by the thermostat. Just spoke to Westfield and the thermostat and pump is the hot outlet

Dont think i would have got that digram from SBD then

[Edited on 15/6/07 by ibakes]

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Doofus

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:04 AM Reply With Quote
That pic looks to be ok to me. It's the same as my setup. On the duratec the thermostat is on the feed to the pump and switches flow between the radiator (cold) water and the bypass (hot) from the back of the head. The heater always gets flow as it's connected no matter which way the thermostat switches..

The large pipe on the termostat goes to the bottom of the rad and the large pipe from the back of the head goes to the top of the rad as shown.

is the heater getting too much flow? or do you still have an air lock?

I've run the electronic stat and the mechanical one, both work but the mechanical one is better, locked solidly at 82 deg... it never moves...

Paul.

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:15 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Doofus
is the heater getting too much flow? or do you still have an air lock?
Paul.


Now im confused if its the same as yours

with the electronic one i was never getting any hot water to the heater, i have 2 bleed points, one by the radiator and one by the heater. even let the car run up a coupld of times and rebled both.

I think it could be due to the pump rotating the wrong way with my set up

has anyone got any picture of their belt set up at all please?

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Doofus

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:24 AM Reply With Quote
Yeah have a look here

Mine is like the first picture.

Paul

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:30 AM Reply With Quote
Humm.. think mine is rotating the same way as the crank pully, alternator is on the other side, right try to change that this weekend some how.

any other ideas if plumbing is correct?

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James

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:35 AM Reply With Quote
CairB has a Duratec, have a look in his photo archive in case he has any useful pictures.

HTH,
James





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Doofus

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
Image deleted by owner

Not a good photo but the long ally pipe connects the back of the head to the top of the rad.
You can just see the pump/thermostat feed underneath it.

I'd imagine the pump not going the right way might cause a problem. Are you using the original smooth water pump pulley?

Hope that helps a bit...

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 09:50 AM Reply With Quote
Yeah, using the original pully straight from the mondeo it came from,

I've got the grooved side of the belt touching the pully (i though i had seen before whilst looking for belt route) so going the wrong way.

also good to see the size of the pipe you are using from the back of the engine to the rad, i was thinking mine was too big.

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Doofus

posted on 15/6/07 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
Radiator top and bottom hoses are 32mm from memory and the thermostat and rear of head are the same so it makes for nice and simple plumbing. The bypass and header tank bottom are 16mm ish I think and theres an 8mm pipe from the rear of the head to the top of the header tank to let the air out.

I plumbed my header tank where the heater is on the diagram, wasn't sure if that was correct but it works a treat...
I'm planning to fit a heater at a later date so that might change.

Paul.

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ibakes

posted on 15/6/07 at 10:12 AM Reply With Quote
I have the one pipe all the way from the back of the engine to the rad, guessing at 40mm but its a tight fit so probably smaller.

Fingers crossed it is just the pulley going the wrong way.

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